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|01-21-2008, 03:44 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Scewball, One Each
How to: Palmerized CAR Stock for the 98 Series
This is a how to thread I originally posted on the Special Ops Paintball forum. Some of you may have already seen it and others may not have.
You will need the following items:
Palmer's Direct Stabalizer
Metal Endcap for 98 (I got this with a used 98C I bought off a former co-worker)
AR-15 Carbine stock (if you can get a CAR stock for a 98 with a metal tube you will not need to make an end cap)
T-fitting with female-male-female threaded for 1/8 NPT
Pressure Guage threaded for 1/8 NPT
Male-female 1/8 NPT extension
1/8 NPT 45 degree elbow
Male Quick Disconnect nipple threaded for 1/8 NPT for remote line hook up.
Your choice of air line. I used macro line with two 90 degree fittings. If you prefer you can use steel braided hose with 90 degree fittings. I recommend macro line though since it is easier to use in custom lengths. Also it is easier to disassemble your marker with this mod if you use macro line.
Plug for top of Palmer's stabalizer if you mess up the threads on the endcap (thread size escapes me at this time.)
Drill press if available (recommended)
If no drill press available you can use a standard handheld corded or cordless drill. (go slow to keep everything as straight as possible.)
1/8 NPT tap
10-32 screw tap.
Appropriate drill bits for the taps (need to look them up. Will update after I have the information)
Drill bit large enough to hollow out the endcap for the top of the stabalizer (need to check to see which one I used)
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Now to detail the preparation steps on how I made the stock:
1. Start off by removing the 90 degree elbow from the stabalizer.
2. Mill and tap the endcap for the stabalizer. 1/8NPT tap is used. Be carefull to keep the tap straight. If not you will have to get a plug for the top of the stabalizer
3. Fit the stablizer to the endcap. Do not apply loctite at this time in case further milling in required
4. Test fit the stabalizer and endcap into buffer tube. If the endcap is off centered you will have to mill down the sides until it will slide into the buffer tube. I recommend removing the stabalizer from the endcap to prevent damage.
5. Once propperly fitted remove the assembly and hold it to the side of the buffer tube. Mark where the input and output sits on the tube.
6. Mill out the top and bottom of the buffer tube then tap for 1/8 NPT. Tap one side, then turn over to tap the other side.
7. Mill out the back of the buffer tube to create a hole for the allen wrench. The same drill bit used to drill out for 1/8 NPT can be used for the allen wrench hole.
8. Insert stab/endcap assembly to check for allignment. If alligned correctly you can now drill and tap the buffer tub and endcap for 10-32 screws.
9. Since I have a rocket cock I milled the top and then the bottom to accept 10-32. If you do not have a rocket cock and do not plan on getting one you can mill the sides.
Note: I milled out the side of the right reciever half to accept a 90 degree elbow where the air-line would normally go into the power tube. I did this because I felt it gave the mod a cleaner look.
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Now comes the fun part, putting it all together.
1. Apply loctite to 1/8 threads on the stabalizer and install into endcap.
2. Insert stabalizer into buffer tube. Ensure the output side is facing the top of the buffer tube.
3. Apply loctite to T-fitting and install to buffer tube/stabalizer assembly. it should be flush or almost flush to the buffer tube. Also the female ends should be facing the sides of the buffer tube. Set aside with end cap facing down.
4. Assemble the bottom portion using loctite. Male quick disconnect to 45 degree elbow. Elbow to male-female extension.
5. Install QD assembly to bottom of the buffer tube/stabalizer. The top of the extension should be flush to the buffer tube with the QD nipple facing the rear.
6. Install 90 degree fitting and airline to T-fitting. I recommend placing this on the right side to keep it away from the cocking knob.
7. Install guage to left side of T-fitting.
After steps 6 & 7 it should look something like this:
8. Install air line to powertube. Do not fully assemble your marker at this time.
9. Gas up the marker and check for leaks. If no leaks are present proceed to step #13.
10. If leaks are present determine location. Make sure you used either teflon tape or loctite on all threads.
11. De-gas marker and fix leaks.
A. If there is a leak from where the stabalizer meets the endcap check all the threads. If they beyond repair you will have to plug the top/front of the stabalizer. Install the plug with loctite and allow to dry with top/front of stabalizer facing down.
12. After any and all leaks are taken care of repeat step # 9.
13. If no leaks de-gas marker and fully assemble marker. If you are using macro line you can now cut to length.
Your marker should now look similiar to this. Again please note that I milled out the right reciever half to accept a 90 degree elbow where the air line would normally go. I feel this gives the marker a cleaner look with the air-thru mod.
14. Fill hopper, gas up marker, and chronograph. Adjust pressure as needed.
15. Have a great day of paintball.
Please note that Stabalizers have a long break in period. It can take anywhere from 2,000 to 3,000 cycles for it to fully break in. Also Stabalizers are shipped dry. To lube with this mod apply a few drops of air tool oil or Hoppes #9 into the QD nipple.
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