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Old 07-25-2018, 12:11 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Trigger mockup. Thoughts? Obviously needs more clearance cut away around the trigger.

I think I might try to put a magnet under the rear of the trigger. It would give it a nice snap and would avoid the sloppy trigger feel that most mags have.

https://i.imgur.com/YjhZbIP.png
Did you compare the lever arms with the stock arrangement? It looks like it would be close, but you are losing the extra advantage of the trigger rod location on the trigger.
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Old 07-26-2018, 02:16 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Good call, I just did some napkin calcs and it looks like the stock automag trigger is very close to a 1:1 force ratio on the sear tang, plus like you said, some advantage due to the trigger pin location. Probably about 1.25? My first trigger design is around 0.56 right now, so at least twice the stock AGD trigger pull weight. That's not really something I'd want to play with.

*edit with an update*

This should put me somewhere in the 0.9-1.0 force ratio range at the start of pull, depending on how the trigger finger sits. It drops to the 0.8-0.9 range when the trigger is fully pulled, so it's got a slight ramp up in pull weight.

I think I can live with that after adding an RT on/off.

I added a bearing I had kicking around at my desk, and I'm going to tap the trigger for takeup and overtravel. Should be easy to mill a small pocket and glue a magnet in right below it.



Last edited by russc; 07-26-2018 at 04:59 AM.
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:07 AM   #63 (permalink)
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I added a bearing I had kicking around at my desk,
Lol, I had some random bearings of my own, then inherited my father's collection going from instrument to automotive to tractor to naval winch bearings. They hang around, waiting for something to do. It's nice to get a good bearing into the right spot.
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:21 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Well that worked great! Thanks for the superglue tip!

Got some funky chatter going on at the bottom of the trigger face on the finishing cuts. Not sure what's going on there...tried lowering the tool into the fixture a bit and it still happened. Maybe if I used a bigger tool instead of the 1/8" endmills? Probably need to take a deeper finishing cut too. I think I had it skimming too lightly.

[edit] Talked to a coworker and he tells me I've got some chips getting dragged around during roughing. The way to do it next time would be to leave more material on the rough cut, before I glue to the plate.

Can polish it up pretty easily though.

I think I'm convinced this is the way to go with the grip frame...I'm going to waterjet it and then do the fillets and pivot holes with this method for sure.












Last edited by russc; 07-31-2018 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 07-31-2018, 08:06 PM   #65 (permalink)
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oh man. this is gonna be rad
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Old 08-01-2018, 01:56 AM   #66 (permalink)
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You guys have no idea how tempting it is to go completely metric with this thing. It's so much easier to design, and I'm surrounded by metric screws and pins, haha...


Here's the trigger...I think I might remake it in steel.


Last edited by russc; 08-01-2018 at 02:45 AM.
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Old 08-01-2018, 10:54 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Glad the super glue worked well for it, I've had great luck with it and am starting to use it more and more.

Not sure how the options in HSM are laid out, but if it is similar to Fusion 360 (which is based on the HSM core), there is a setting for axial stock to leave. This helps to guarantee that when you take a finishing pass that you actually have enough material left to form a chip and not just rub. If you use the same size tool (or even the same tool) for the roughing passes (slotting or adaptive removal) and the finishing passes, having stock left also ensures that you are only cutting on one side of the endmill at once as well which can help with a few different issues (more appropriate loading on the tool, wider path for chip evacuation).

A larger tool, as you mentioned, will probably be a better fit on a PCNC100 from a speeds and feeds perspective with their max RPM limit as well as more rigid.
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Old 08-02-2018, 12:10 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Yep, there's a stock to leave option that I'll be sure to use next time. Good tip about using different tool sizes.

It's really easy to get lured into a false sense of security by the CAM software...there's so many little things I'm learning along the way to help fine tune the process.
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Old 08-08-2018, 11:17 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Practicing my single point threads. Wasn't really shooting for full spec, just wanted to make sure I could rough it out.

I think what I'm going to do is turn and bore the body blank and make sure I get usable threads...and then finish milling on the CNC. No point risking ruining a good body with my hand machining.



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Old 08-09-2018, 10:00 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Yeah, when you don't do them very often, internal threads are pretty annoying. I suspect that is part of the origin of cocker barrel threads. You can just run a plug tap into the hole and call it done.
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