Dangerous Power Fusion

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Old 08-21-2014, 08:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Feb 2011

Dangerous Power Fusion Elite Review

I was asked to test and evaluate the new Dangerous Power Fusion Elite Marker. I spent some time going over the marker, disassembling & reassembling, firing it in a private setting and using it at an all-day scenario game at a local field. Here is my assessment of the Fusion Elite Marker.

The Fusion Elite comes in a custom semi-rigid, zipper case with a dense foam lining cut out specifically for the marker. The case has a divider with 2 mesh pockets for accessories on one side and elastic loops for the 2-piece barrel on the other side. Below the top layer of foam, you will find another layer of dense foam with cut outs for a parts kit and a complete hex key set.

The parts kit contains replacement o-rings, 2 solenoid springs, 2 trigger springs, 2 ball detents, 2 eye cover screws, 2 zip-ties (for keeping the solenoid & eye wires organized) & a tube of DP-40 PLUS lube. In addition, there is a paper insert that lists all of these items along with an o-ring size chart. The complete hex key set is the standard Dangerous Power set that you will find with most Dangerous Power markers.
The 2 mesh pockets hold a Dangerous Power barrel sock, the quick start tuning guide, the owner’s manual and some Dangerous Power stickers. The quick start tuning guide is just that, quick instructions for tuning the Fusion Elite. The owner’s manual is a well-organized, 75 page booklet with color photographs explaining everything about the marker. The manual that came with my marker did have some proof-reading errors and a few functionality details that are incorrect. These items have been addressed and hopefully will be corrected in the final production.

Look & Feel:
The Fusion Elite has a sleek and aggressive look with intricate 3-D milling. The body has a distinctive finish. The back portion from the back cap to the eye covers has a gloss finish and transitions to a dust finish at the front. The rest of the marker has a dust finish. I was informed that the production models will have gloss accents to match the gloss finish on the back portion. At first, I wasn’t a fan of the gloss-to-dust finish transition, but it is definitely growing on me. I think it’s an acquired taste, either you will like the finish or you will hate it.

The Fusion Elite is light weight, only 1.875 lbs. with barrel & battery per the manual. It is very comfortable to hold and fits well in my hands. With a loader and tank attached, the marker is well balanced.

Air System:
The macroless air system has been incorporated into the Fusion Elite, flowing from the RAPS ASA, through the trigger frame and into the body, similar to the G5 Marker. The elimination of the external airline gives the marker a streamline look and feel. There is no need to worry about leaking macrolines & fittings.

Trigger Frame & Trigger:
The trigger frame, with wrap around, light weight rubber grips, is comfortable. The large trigger guard allows for ample room for fingers.
Within the trigger frame sits a scythe style trigger, called the Archon Trigger. It has roller bearings and 4 adjustment screws for pre & post travel, magnetic strength and microswitch actuation. With a little tweaking, I adjusted the trigger to my preference. It has a very smooth feel with no side-to-side play, allowing for ease in walking the trigger.

The circuit board is an OLED board with the display on the left side of the grips. The OLED display is bright and clearly visible through the window in the grips. The board is easy to program by following the programming flow chart in the manual. Once you do it a couple of times, it is very easy to navigate. The board contains a variety of settings for any type of tournament play. There is a Profiler Chip mounted to the circuit board, which allows the user to program the marker to specific settings and save to the chip. Once this is complete, place the chip in another Fusion Elite and it will use the chip settings on that marker. The board has 2 buttons for controlling, which are located on the back of the trigger frame. The power button (bottom button) is also used to toggle the eyes on/off. The programming mode operation button (diamond, top button) allows you to easily scroll through the firing modes and select the desired mode of play. The firing modes include: Semi, Burst, Reactive, Auto, Ramp, PSP3, NXL, & Millennium.

The Operating Pressure Regulator (OPR) has a nice milled look and feel to it. It incorporates a spring and piston for adjusting the pressure. With the macroless air system, there are is no macroline or fitting to contend with, making it comfortable to hold. The Low Pressure Regulator (LPR) has a cohesive look and is fully adjustable for fine tuning your marker. The LPR regulates the pressure from the OPR and sends it to the solenoid.

Valve Assembly:
Behind the LPR, you will find a tapered valve pin spring, valve pin with cup seal, and removable delrin-core valve assembly. The valve assembly can be removed by separating the body & trigger frame and removing the valve core screw. I suggest using an unsharpened pencil with an eraser to push the valve out for maintenance.

Bolt & Ram:
The bolt has been redesigned for a quieter shot and better air distribution. It looks similar to the TECHT Pro Series Hush Bolt, but does not have any o-rings. The bolt is made of delrin, so a lubricant is not recommended. The back of the bolt has been cut to follow the shape of the body, which looks great.
The ram is fully pneumatic and no longer uses a spring return as in previous Fusions. The marker utilizes a 3-way solenoid to move the ram in both directions. It is lightweight, yet seems very strong and durable. There are a total of 4 o-rings on the ram. Access to the ram is through the ram cap at the back of the marker and can be removed easily for maintenance.

The solenoid is different than past DP solenoids as it is a 3-way solenoid, which moves the ram in both directions, rather than one direction. It is easy to access, disconnect the wiring harness from the board, separate the body and trigger frame and remove the mounting screws from the body. A big improvement to this solenoid (compared to past models) is the way to access the internals of the solenoid. In previous models, there was a slotted screw at the end of the solenoid. The screw driver used had to be an exact fit to prevent stripping the screw slot. Now it requires an 1/8” hex key to unscrew the screw, which will allow the solenoid to be serviced easily.

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Old 08-21-2014, 08:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Eye Covers, Eyes & Detents:
The eye covers are milled to match the flow of the body and look great. The top of the eye covers slip into a slight edge in the body that helps keep it set as it screwed in. The bottom of the eye covers is behind the grips, so the grips will need to be removed before removing the eye covers. This may be cumbersome to some owners, but for me, it is not an issue.
Behind the covers are the break-beam eyes and the rubber detents. The eyes are the same as what you will find on the FX and the G-5. The rubber detents are similar to the FX, but seem to be the appropriate length to hold the paintball in place and don’t need to be trimmed.

Feedneck & ASA:
The low profile clamping feedneck and RAPS ASA have become a staple with Dangerous Power markers, and I’m happy to find them on the Fusion Elite as well. The Feedneck, which has Matrix threads, holds the loader tightly with no fear of it coming loose. The RAPS ASA is version 3 (V3) and has been redesigned for use with the macroless air system. This version is the same as what you will find on the G5. The grooves added to the lever make it easier to hold when gassing and degassing the marker.

The stock barrel is a 14 inch, 2-piece barrel with Autococker threads. It has a moderate amount of porting and shoots decently, but is somewhat loud. The barrel tip has an accent ring that divides the tip and back and gives it a finishing touch. The back is stamped with a size of 0.689, which is a large bore size compared to today’s paint.

Tuning the Marker:
I used a Ninja Paintball 68/45 tank for tuning the marker. I removed the shims from the tank regulator, giving it an approximate output of 500 psi. I used my X-Radar handheld chronograph to test for velocity. I started with both the OPR and LPR turned all the way in. I tried several different adjustment combinations with the OPR and LPR to see what kind of readings I would get. Ultimately, I think that I found the optimum settings for my marker. For the OPR, I used 3.5 turns out from zero and for the LPR, I used 3 turns out from zero, which gave me 288-291 fps. Since both regulators were not all the way out, it gave me the ability to tweak if necessary. I kept all board settings as stock since the marker has not been broken in.

My set-up included a Dye Rotor loader and a Ninja Paintball 68/45 tank. Also on hand, I had another Ninja Paintball 68/45 tank and a Ninja Paintball 50/45 tank, all with approximate output of 500 psi. I shot a couple of cases of paint at home and did not have a single break or problem. I was using GI Sportz 3-star paint with the stock barrel. It wasn’t the most accurate with the stock barrel as the paint was not an exact match, but it wasn’t too bad. The marker has a very smooth shot with minimal kick. There is a very slight metallic spring sound that I noticed when making single shots, but only when I was listening for it. It appears to be coming from the valve pin spring, but does not seem to affect the performance. At high rates of fire, there were no problems with the recharge rate or the cycling performance. It shot beautifully! I did not have my tanks filled completely, so I could not check the efficiency of the marker at that time.
Since I did not get to check the efficiency of the marker at home, I decided to use it in an all-day scenario game at a local field. As far my equipment setup, I was using a Dye Rotor loader and a Ninja 68/4500 tank filled to 4000psi. The paint used was RPS Marballizers, so I switch to my Powerlyte Scepter Barrel kit as the stock barrel was too large for the paint. I left the OPR setting at 3.5 turns out, but turned the LPR down slightly as the paint-to-bore match was tighter and chronoed at 285-288 fps.

At high rates of fire, it was smooth and consistent. I did not notice any drop off with the shots. I chronoed throughout the day and the marker stayed in the 287-292 fps range. I wrote down each pod used and continued to refill the pods without refilling the air tank. Before the final game, the tank was finally empty. The following are my totals for efficiency:
• Ninja 68/4500 tank filled to 4000psi
• Dye Rotor loader capacity = 200 rounds
• 8 pods (140 rounds each) = 1120 rounds
Total = 200 + 1120 = 1320 rounds
It definitely did not have the greatest numbers for efficiency. I plan to spend more time trying various OPR/LPR combinations to see if I can increase the number of shots and will update accordingly.

Once again Dangerous Power has made a great marker at an affordable price. The Dangerous Power Fusion Elite has an exceptional look and feel with many great features, such as an OLED circuit board, macroless air system, LPR, fully pneumatic system with 3-way solenoid and ease of maintenance.
The Fusion Elite was designed with the tournament player in mind and it certainly seems to fit that genre. It will appeal to the novice player as well as the seasoned veteran.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm curious as to what the factory settings were on the regulators and if the factory settings yielded better efficiency at the sacrifice of a smoother shot. Are there O-rings inside the marker for the bolt to seal on, like the g5 or is it just the delrin on aluminum?

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Originally Posted by Trbo323 View Post
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Old 08-22-2014, 12:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jerryjjackson69 View Post
I'm curious as to what the factory settings were on the regulators and if the factory settings yielded better efficiency at the sacrifice of a smoother shot. Are there O-rings inside the marker for the bolt to seal on, like the g5 or is it just the delrin on aluminum?
Factory settings on regulators? As in how open were the adjustment screws on them? Doesn't matter because it is going to be different for everyone when it comes to tuning the regulators. Something set up for sunny Southern California (at sea level) is likely not going to be best for the thin air of Denver or high humidity of the Southeast. There are too many variables to have the regulators "factory set to optimal".

As for internal there are not any internal O-rings in the breach area.
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