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Old 02-24-2010, 07:28 PM   #1191 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Python View Post
I would like to take a moment to point out that aluimum corrodes easily when in direct contact with another metal
Granted, the factory vent is brass, and the rear block is not annodized......

Its a good point, though I'm not sure how much effect it would have on fittings. Paintball guns have long had a mix of brass, steel and aluminium parts. Aluminium is not always annodized. Sometimes its powdercoated, and sometimes not coated at all.

However, when my jeep had aluminium diamond plates installed, all the steel bolts have corroded because of the oxidation between the metals.
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Old 02-24-2010, 09:11 PM   #1192 (permalink)
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I don't think it would be a problem, especially after a couple wraps of Teflon. Additionally, markers aren't normally exposed to the environment continuously like a Jeep.

Last edited by paulduckson; 02-24-2010 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 02-24-2010, 09:19 PM   #1193 (permalink)
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Brass in contact with aluminum won't redox, that's not an issue.
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Old 02-24-2010, 09:40 PM   #1194 (permalink)
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From what I was told when I was making my Gas through grip mod. Using noncorrosive metals, Brass, Aluminum, Stainless Steel, is fine. But don't combine steel with aluminum or brass.
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:26 PM   #1195 (permalink)
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The guy at my hardware store always knows when I've got a new gun because I show up and buy a bunch of stainless fasteners. The four long ones from the backblock to the receiver are not common sizes though...
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:42 PM   #1196 (permalink)
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Hey guys,Its just my thoughts. In my busniess I have seend some crazy s***, and I have seen alot of tings go wrong. Yes, brass and aluminum can be in contact, but the teflon is a god idea to avoid any problems.

I also had another though while staring at my SA-8 today -what grade of aluminum is the back block? Some don't hold threads as well, but usually it's an aircraft grade. That's one thing I'm not too well versed in, so if anyone can explain the differences, it might be good to know before threading.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:09 PM   #1197 (permalink)
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The back block has held 550 PSI. Though I don't think I would be running with the tapped piece. It was done for strictly the experiments.

If I was going to play with the tapped back block, I would install a plate with a drilled hole in the back. That way if it blows off, the plate would stop it or reduce the speed.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:17 PM   #1198 (permalink)
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Or affix a nut to the inside with loc-tite
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:36 PM   #1199 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Python View Post
Ok, I finished the first mod for an adjustable relief valve. Take a look and tell me what you think. I replaced the spring with a lighter one from the hardware store. The back plate (I know it's not pretty, but I did it at home and couldn't use the bridgeport at work) has an insert in it with a set screw through it. I used socket head cap screws only because I had them.

I set it almost like the manual states for a T8. I screwed it out until a little gas escaped, and then tightened it about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. I tested it by turning the gun upside down and firing a few shots, and then righted it. It began hissing for a minute and then stopped.
cool! looks like my earlier design. mine is just bigger. gj !
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Old 02-25-2010, 04:34 AM   #1200 (permalink)
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I have been quiet throughout this whole ordeal, but there seems to be something overlooked. I might be wrong, but I am pretty sure Pepperball advertised these SA-8s as new guns. I just got mine; a blue one (I had it slow boated and ordered it before the blues were sold out). For a new gun, there are some rather interesting discrepancies. The plastic/resin grip frame, has holster wear. The front sight was glued on, and not well (It fell off again and the glue is still tacky). The main bolt spring show excessive wear on both ends (as if the pistol has had several magazines fed through it). The steel of the spring has a thin layer of rust. The barrel has a few scuff marks. I have not taken the gun completely apart, but I expect to find that the bolt/air chamber to be dry as a bone, and probably quite a bit or wear on the trigger assembly. I also expect to find wear markings on the bolt as well. Even the brand new magazines show some wear, especially where the 12-gram cylinders go into place. Not obvious signs of abuse, but some marring where the anodizing has been scratch off. Did anybody else get an SA-8 with wear and abuse on it?

I have been a long time owner and user of a Tiberius Arms Tac 8. The gun was pristine and never fired when I got it. The main spring was perfect and stainless. The air chamber had just a little bit of grease for the internal O-ring. The barrel had no scratches or scuffs. The magazines were all perfect and neatly anodized. There was NO holster wear on the Tac 8 at all.

I will be perfectly honest, yes, I bought one of the $99.00 deals from Pepperball for the magazines and for parts. I do not plan on using this thing on a paintball field. I plan on cannibalizing it for parts. Thanks to all that have and are still doing the testing on the internals and what can and can not be for paintball on these SA-8s. Please continue the research and development.

I have no issues with Tiberius Arms, they have been more than fair and have done even more to help the Paintball community with their offers to buy back either the kits or the guns for Tiberius Arms credit. Tiberius Arms could have easily walked away from the whole thing, but they choose not to. Pepperball, on the other hand, has done quite the disservice. Especially if Pepperball is advertising these guns as new; never been fired.

I apologize if I am beating a dead member of the equine species, but I do not recall ever seeing these titbits of information in the many threads on comparing the SA-8 to the Tac-8 or in the many pictures of the SA-8.

Please correct me if I am wrong.
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