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Old 02-16-2018, 08:24 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Here’s a thought I’ve had about a similar build, what about adding a second mag rail offset to the side and rotate the body so the breach is pointed downward? Would just have to milk out a new seat slot and make something to attach both rails. I’m thinking this would give you a better attachment point for the front of the rail/body and your breach is pointing downward the way you want it. Hopefully this makes sense and maybe someday I’ll get ambition to try it myself also.
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Old 02-26-2018, 08:47 PM   #22 (permalink)
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DAM magwell just arrived in the mail. Still deciding which type of main body I want to use, though. Automag, Minimag, or Classic RT.

Hmm. :/


Whichever body I use, though, the old feedneck hole exposing the Doc’s adapter should be on the right side where the magwell’s feedneck cutout is...for appearance’s sake.
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Old 02-26-2018, 09:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ghost Flanker View Post
DAM magwell just arrived in the mail. Still deciding which type of main body I want to use, though. Automag, Minimag, or Classic RT.

Hmm. :/


Whichever body I use, though, the old feedneck hole exposing the Docís adapter should be on the right side where the magwellís feedneck cutout is...for appearanceís sake.
How about a centerfeed body and cover the hole with a rail?
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Old 02-27-2018, 12:01 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I couldn’t do that to a centerfeed twistlock body. Those things are sacred to me. Besides, this doesn’t look half bad at all.


You’ll notice that the feedneck hole on the RT body sits right where the square cutout on the magwell is. It kind of looks like the body and magwell belong together.
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Old 02-27-2018, 02:51 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Something like a tac1 body might allow you the extra meat above the valve to effectively tap an extra retaining screw or two into the top side valve. Which in my head would secure the valve and the frame to that valve simultaneously.
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Old 02-27-2018, 09:35 AM   #26 (permalink)
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This is sick. Definitely following.
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:27 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by HeroForADay View Post
Something like a tac1 body might allow you the extra meat above the valve to effectively tap an extra retaining screw or two into the top side valve. Which in my head would secure the valve and the frame to that valve simultaneously.
Iím not sure what you mean, but Iíd like to pick your brain for any good ideas Iíve yet to consider. Please elaborate.

A big reason why I decided to go with a twistlock body is because itís very easy to invert the breech, just twist the barrel ó or in my case, a Docís AC adapter ó until the feedhole points down, then secure in place.

A TacOne body, on the other hand, has a fixed breech that is open at the top (or the side if itís warpfeed). You could cut a D-shaped hole through the bottom of the body into the breech, but then how do you seal up the top so the rounds donít go flying all the way up through the body? Maybe fill it in with epoxy? But itíd take a Christmas miracle to mold it just right so that it doesnít tear rounds apart or interfere with the bolt upon firing. Too tricky for my taste.
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:47 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I can try to explain but I'm likely far less familiar with the actual component names of an automag than you. I'm simply thinking about the rigidity of the body. So right now I don't have much thought into plugging the traditional or warp feed neck opening.

However, my thought about making the marker solid came from a tac one body. They have rails above the valve that you would drill and tap through to secure the valve from both sides (top and bottom) almost like multiple thumbscrews. This might offer a little more structural integrity to the back half of the marker since you're effectively losing the front frame screw.

Alternatively I thought about using a "hood" similar to the way RT mags had that piece that threads into the rail, then up and over the body. It might be possible to clam shell the whole thing together.

https://goo.gl/images/rhtTVU

I guess it might be similar to a railed scope mount you might see on a real firearm. Might be able to pull the whole thing together since the easiest place to break would be by pulling it apart if you ever dug the barrel into anything and creating quite a lever effect.
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Old 02-27-2018, 04:40 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Just a forewarning: For those suggesting setscrews to help retain the valve to the body tube, those will not have anywhere near enough strength.

The valve actually has a fair amount of force on it, as the compressed air in the dump chamber trying to push the bolt forward (stopped only by the sear rocker) is also trying to push the valve backward.

That's why the rails have that "Z notch" and pin, in the event the thumbscrew breaks. That pin (hopefully) will keep the valve from shooting backwards and whacking you in the face.

Setscrews simply do not have the same kind of holding power as a proper threaded screw, like the thumbscrew. You WILL absolutely have to use it, or something similar, to retain the valve to the body. If the grip frame is too far rearward for an easy use of the screw in the conventional location, then as I said, an extension welded to the top tube (or machined into an aluminum body tube) could let you have a retaining screw come in from the top, for easier access.

But do NOT trust some simple setscrews just stuck in from the sides. They will NOT be strong enough, and you're risking damage or even injury that way.

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Old 02-27-2018, 04:56 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Yeah I doubt a grub screw simply tightened into the valve would offer much security. Would definitely need to drill and thread them into it.
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