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Old 12-06-2018, 09:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for taking the time for this detailed write-up. One of the beautiful things about our forum which can never be replace on FB.
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Old 12-06-2018, 03:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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-No more than 125 PSI, according to the manual. It acts as a "first stage", so the 'Box is compressing already-compressed air.
Besides saving a lot of compressor cycles at small volume (and time), it helps to squeeze a lot of water out of the air, which saves you from dryer filter maintenance and other wear. You should add the cost of a cheapie compressor if you don't have anything already.
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Old 12-06-2018, 04:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Doc,

I have one of the older compressors i got used. I would recommend keeping a close eye on it when you got to fill up to 4500 the first time and the same after the rebuilds. I wnat to say the tension for the auto shut off is adusted by moving the coupler with the spring attached along the piston rod. But worth noting that i wouldnt plug it in and walk away with out checking it the first time or 2.

Also let me know when you do a right up on a larger bleed knob. Its been something i have been meaning to make myself. I will be tearing mine down tonight to replace some of the bushings. I run mine pretty hard. It takes about 3.5 hours for me to fill a 77/45. everyone says that takes forever but its better than taking a trip to the store. I can turn mine on. do the yard work, shower, eat and then its ready for what ever project while i put the next tank on and head to my paintball room and comeback to it in a few hours.

I have been thinking about upgrading to the f10 as it would cut my time down significantly but not something i have to have yet.

Nice write up btw.
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Old 12-06-2018, 05:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I wonder how the shoebox (that has been around for a decade now) compare to the chinese compressors you can get for ~$200 or so. I know with them you have to have a water color and filters, but don't need a first stage pump.
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Old 12-06-2018, 05:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You also have to change the oil on those regularly.
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
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How long did your main compressor run for? I figure a big belt driven tank would be good for this and not a little pancake compressor.
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Old 12-07-2018, 01:54 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superman View Post
I have one of the older compressors i got used. I would recommend keeping a close eye on it when you got to fill up to 4500 the first time and the same after the rebuilds.
-Oh, of course. I have faith the build is pretty reliable by this point, but it's still very much in the "trust but verify" range.

Quote:
I wnat to say the tension for the auto shut off is adusted by moving the coupler with the spring attached along the piston rod.
-Doesn't sound like a current build. My switch appears to be a single screw-in unit, with a built-in allen screw adjuster. I have a 4500 whip coming, so once that's here, I'll try filling the 4500 "automatically" a couple of times, and eventually crank it down to 3K.

Quote:
Also let me know when you do a right up on a larger bleed knob.
-Due to the proximity of the output port, the size of the knob will always be limited. I was thinking of screwing the end of the whip straight in, and that would buy a bit more clearance for a bigger knob.

I didn't have any trouble turning mine in for a bleed, though... although now that I think about it, that was only at 2500 psi, not 4500...

Quote:
How long did your main compressor run for? I figure a big belt driven tank would be good for this and not a little pancake compressor.
-I have a sixty-gallon 3HP compressor plumbed into almost 200 feet of manifold system running through both main rooms of the shop. That compressor didn't even run once, to my knowledge, although it's well enough muffled in the side room that I suppose it could have without my hearing it.

Put it this way- if it DID run, it only ran the once.

A smaller pancake compressor or other home-shop size unit would probably run several times, but I doubt even one with a tiny tank would run constantly.

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Old 12-07-2018, 02:35 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I use a 6.5 gallon Bostitch oil-less compressor, it runs for about 90 seconds every 20-25 minutes with the output pressure set to 95-100PSI.

I have the original Shoebox, once the auto shutoff is tuned in, you can walk away from the setup and not worry too much. I never leave my property with the machines running, though. Twice, I had the adjustable reg seal blow out on my old Husky oil-less compressor, once when it was hooked up. The shoebox was fine, but the motor ran on the Husky for about 45 continuous minutes. I replaced the seal and ran the Husky for another couple of years, so it wasn't damaged. Still kinda scary though, I would imagine an oil-less compressor would eventually start on fire if it ran continuously for a long enough time.

My educated guess for operating hours on my Shoebox, is right around 1100-1300 hours. Never changed an oring or seal, had to replace one fuse, and the 7-year old belt finally blew apart this fall. The thing is damn near bulletproof.
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:23 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I had strongly considered buying a Shoebox for a while but never did. I still look at them fondly with a small measure of lust.

Anyway, I always figured a filter between the first stage and Shoebox would be a good idea...just a basic filter with drip bowl to catch some water and give the Shoebox semi-clean air.

Would a filter between the first stage in the Shoebox eliminate any water produced by the unit? Is water in the final filled bottle even an issue?
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Old 12-08-2018, 04:12 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Moisture is something to be concerned about, especially if you live in a humid area.

I'm not overly concerned, myself, as I have a large compressor, mounted in an attached shed, connected to two inline coalescing filters in series, which is then connected to a manifold system- the nearest connection of which is over 20 linear feet of tubing away.

But if you don't have a cool shop manifold system like mine ( ) it couldn't hurt to get a small coalescing filter to run inline, or have a larger tank (like 20 gallon) which means the unit will only run once or twice while filling a small tank. That way the tank has a chance to cool off, and any moisture inside drain to the bottom.

Regular tank draining of course helps.

Another option might be to try some of the little "final stage" filters that the auto body painters use on their air hoses, just before the gun. They're usually small packs of a desiccant like silica gel or activated alumina, and can strip small amounts of moisture out of the line.

Is it a problem? In very small amounts, no. A bit too much can cause your on-gun tank to corrode- I once cleaned out a Max Flow reg that was literally packed with white dust from an internally-corroding tank. That was an admittedly extreme case, but it can happen. (Keeping in mind that any moisture that collects in there will be flushed out every 3 to 5 years when you have it hydrotested.)

Long story short, it's a concern to keep in mind, but you don't need to go nuts about it.

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