Paintball

[timekeeper]

Originally Posted by Trbo323

Ok sure, but that's like saying "my car is not broken, just none of the door handles work"

The user interface is still broken. If you are ok climbing in through the window then yes, you can still use it but it's not like everything is 100% in working order either.

More along the lines of the dashboard and radio not working, it'll still get you from A to B; but you won't know how fast, how much fuel you have left, if you're low on oil, if your engine is overheating, etc.

Originally Posted by Trbo323

Call it what you want but I would not call the electronics good...

In his defense, he never said they were good, just "not dead", strictly speaking.

[Spider!]

Originally Posted by DocsMachine

So I of course assummmmed that like very single other Autococker in the entire known universe, the front block bolt hole was in fact centered on the body.

LOL. My first exposure to working on cocker-type bodies was the superbolt. You can't assume anything is centered or square on it either. Also, centered on one does not mean centered on the next. Maybe your next SR will be centered, on that spot.

Pretty fix btw.

[Trbo323]

Originally Posted by timekeeper

More along the lines of the dashboard and radio not working, it'll still get you from A to B; but you won't know how fast, how much fuel you have left, if you're low on oil, if your engine is overheating, etc.



In his defense, he never said they were good, just "not dead", strictly speaking.

Sure, ad in what gear you are in as well though,

And then put a questionable about of gas in it and have it make some strange noise, now all of a sudden, missing the dash is a larger issue.

I would probably say it still fires but not necessarily works

If you took all of the measurement indicators off of doc's machine tools they would still "work" in the same way, the problem is actually using them.

To me, if it came in to me for work, that would probably be first on my list of what's broken. I wouldn't come to my customer and tell them "well the lights don't work but the board still fires the maker so I left it alone"

Personally though...I just wouldn't buy an Sr. Problem solved.

If the Sr is your flavor though, by all means, go take them off of eBay so I don't need to look at them.

[timekeeper]

Originally Posted by Trbo323

Sure, ad in what gear you are in as well though,

And then put a questionable about of gas in it and have it make some strange noise, now all of a sudden, missing the dash is a larger issue.

I would probably say it still fires but not necessarily works

Neither would I, it's not working as it's supposed to and I realize it will compound other issues (although not as bad as in a car), but it'll still shoot paint as fast as you can pull the trigger and the on/off and eye indicator lights still work (not to mention the actual on/off switch and eyes themselves), it's just the screens that go out.

Originally Posted by Trbo323

If you took all of the measurement indicators off of doc's machine tools they would still "work" in the same way, the problem is actually using them.

This is actually closer than the car example; you can still use them, but it's a pain in the *** to have to stop mid work and check again with a micrometer, just to see if you're getting close to final dimension. Same as having to use the setup guide in stead of the screen, you can still make it shoot paint, but it's a pain in the ***.

Originally Posted by Trbo323

To me, if it came in to me for work, that would probably be first on my list of what's broken. I wouldn't come to my customer and tell them "well the lights don't work but the board still fires the maker so I left it alone"

Likewise, I'd be more like: "well... it shoots paint if that's what you're looking for, but I wouldn't call it 100% functional"

Originally Posted by Trbo323

Personally though...I just wouldn't buy an Sr. Problem solved.

If the Sr is your flavor though, by all means, go take them off of eBay so I don't need to look at them.

I would if I weren't broke (starting my own business), I really want an SR frame for a project I'm putting together; sadly, it's on a back burner until business picks up (yes there's more than one back burner, but then you know where you are...).

[Carlito]

Well I was waiting for a member here to finish his SR board design, but maybe I'll have to ship mine to you Doc for some machining. While the knowledge is still fresh in your mind.

[timekeeper]

Originally Posted by Carlito

Well I was waiting for a member here to finish his SR board design, but maybe I'll have to ship mine to you Doc for some machining. While the knowledge is still fresh in your mind.

There's a board in beta stage right now; last update was about 15 days ago, parts were in and being assembled in short order.

[DocsMachine]

Originally Posted by Carlito

Well I was waiting for a member here to finish his SR board design, but maybe I'll have to ship mine to you Doc for some machining. While the knowledge is still fresh in your mind.

-You mean you want yours with a screwed-up repair-fix too?

Doc.

[Carlito]

It's like you said, its not the mistake that matters, but the fix (and right attitide)

[Frmespec]

Hmm.. I would have thought 3/4-16 (IVG thread) would have been the next step.. but I’ve never dealt with an SR body either

[DocsMachine]

Much too coarse. The threads would have broken through that milled groove, plus when I rebored it to 9/16"-24, I'd basically "cut out" the center of the plug, just leaving the thread points in place- basically a Heli-coil. The new threads would be alternately cut on the aluminum remnants and the JB-Weld, and wouldn't last very long- and potentially wouldn't seal well.

Doc.