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|09-23-2009, 12:21 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Lake Tahoe
Making a wood stock
What's the best way to go about this and what tools would I need? Where can I get some of these "exotic" woods from? How do I polish the wood to give it that shine and glossy look? I'm going to try for something like shadawg's pgp stock:
Any pointers? Anybody know what kind of wood this is?
|09-23-2009, 12:32 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2008
Looks like zebrawood finished with clearcoat. Process all depends on the tools you have at your disposal. If you're just using hand tools this will take you a very, very long time
You'd go find a lumbermill. If you don't know where one is, look for businesses that would (eg : cabinet shops, highschools, etc)
A & M Wood Specialty is for reference
|09-23-2009, 12:48 PM||#4 (permalink)|
or you could just buy that one and save yourself the time and aggravation. It's for sale by me.
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|09-28-2009, 12:47 AM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2006
For finishing you go to your local library and borrow books on wood finishing. Then you go buy some Flecto brand varnish and learn to apply it so the finish is even. You'll need 3 or 4 coats since the first couple mostly get sanded off with very fine paper to chase away the pricklies that stand up for the first couple of coats. That stock you see in shadawg's picture has 4 or five coats rubbed on with sanding between the first two and some light touch up sanding for the next one as well.
Wood working isn't something you just do well right from the beginning. It takes a bit of time and some mistakes. Some of the mistakes you can recover from others result in the wood being tossed. Trust me, that piece of zebrawood you see there is about $30 worth of wood. You do NOT want to make a mistake and the best way to avoid one is to practice on some house lumber first.
The one big secret weapon for doing stocks like this that you may or may not find in the wood working books is to get some brand new big rough metal files. Not wood rasps, those are TOO coarse. You want three of them. 14, 10 and 8 inch half round coarse files. And then only use them on wood so they cut well. Use them on steel and it'll take off the keen edges and they'll be annoying to use on wood. Aluminium is sort of OK but you're best off to keep them for wood only. The files do nicely at cutting wood with weird grain runout that would tear if you use any other tools. And with all the compound curves there's lots of possible spots for tearout. The files cut more aggresively than even the coarse sandpaper.
I do not recomend power tools for this since it's just way too easy to cut too far. Also the curves and accent lines usually develop as you're shaping the stock. Cut too fast and your mind won't be able to keep up with the work and you'll go too far too fast. The hand tools are slower but it gives you more time to think about the shaping and refine it to a better degree.
Again if the books do not show it the one tool you must have for this stuff is a good solid bench and a good solid vise to use as that all important third hand. Without a good bench and vise you're dead before you start.
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|09-28-2009, 12:36 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: St.Catharines Ontario Canada
good post there Railgun.
get some nice cheap wood to practice on first,
but remember all woods are different, harder woods take more time and
it cad be very unforgiving.
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|09-28-2009, 01:26 PM||#8 (permalink)|
Wood...there are places around that sell nothing but "exotic" woods. Look for places that sell hardwoods for flooring. Sometimes, it's actually not easy to find places like this...I guess they just assume you already know about them if you're in the business. I found a really nice place in Mass by asking around, I couldn't find them through Google or the Yellow Pages.
Unlike Railgun, I LOVE power tools. They make the job sooooooo much easier. For one thing, it's you're making something like a rifle making the "pocket" the body fits into is easier, for me at least, to make with a milling machine. If you don't have access to a milling machine, you can use a router instead. This is made easier if you do the precision parts FIRST, while the wood is still square and you can mount it into a vice and set the stops on the router etc.
To take off the majority of the wood I get close with a saw, and then with a 36" belt sander. It's not hard to avoid taking off too much...just don't take off too much. Assuming you're not an idiot, just take your time.
I don't like using polyurethane or anything like that as a coating. I like to sand the wood down with tung oil or lindseed oil. It makes for a very nice feeling finish. There are plenty of tutorials on the internet.
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