DIY Tech Specific Tech How-To's for Customizing your Gun

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Old 10-19-2006, 02:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How to: Paint Your Weapon Tigerstripe Style</strong>

(I didnt have a marker to paint, so I used 1 half of a ruger 10-22 bullpup stock)

Howto: Paint Your Weapon Tigerstripe Style
By Wookie

  1. Matte Black Spray Paint
  2. Green Spray Paint
  3. Tan Spraypaint
  4. 3m Blue Painters Tape
Clean and Prep
Start by cleaning and preping your weapon. Please see my 'Howto Paint your marker Digital style' for more info.

Apply the basecoat
It can either be green or black. I went with green, which made the final product more black. (as you will see)
Remember to apply a nice thin coat. You want just enough paint to color it, not drown it.

If you spray too close you will get drips.
If you spray too far it will glob in the air and give you the dreaded 'orange peel' effect.

Allow it to dry. You can bake it to speed things along if you wish. Dont let your oven get above 110F. (put a towel in the door to prop it open)

Tear long strips of blue painters tape and apply it to your weapon. (make sure ant tear both sides (my photo only shows 1 side torn)

Lay out the strips along the length of your weapon.

Spray it with the black spraypaint (or green if you used the black as your basecoat.
Allow it to dry.

More Taping
Now apply the 3m tape along the edge of your previously laid tape. You want small little lines of tan;
Less is more at this stage. I actually used an airbrush to get in close, you maybe not be able to do that with a spray can, so you may want to mask off more than I showed in this picture.

Allow it to dry.

Pull the tape off by tugging it against itself. This will help 'cut' the paint and reduce the chances of paint peeling off with the tape.

Enjoy, Wookie.

Last edited by wookie; 02-19-2007 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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how to Paint your Marker Digital Style</strong>

Digital Camouflage Howto

1.) More time than money (Ghetto)
2.) Middle of the road.
2.) More money than time. (Pimped)

Shopping List

Ghetto Materials
$20 Good paint from hardware store.
$13 /10 sheets Frisket low tack adhesive
$4 Xacto blade
Subtotal ~$37

Middle of the road
$20 Good paint from hardware store.
$20 Digital Stencil from my site
$4 Xacto Blade.
Subtotal ~$50

Pimped Materials.
Purchase a paint kit from Lauer Custom Weaponry.
$98 Desert MirageFlage Stencil plus 4 bottles of paint
$30 Add in a level II airbrush kit
$15 Shipping
Subtotal: ~$145

Other Materials required.

$5 Denatured Alcohol
$5 M.E.K paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper (thanks to Malevolanet_frog for the jasco tip)
$5 3m Blue Paint Masking tape. This masking tape is low tack so it won’t peel the paint underneath when you remove it.
$3 Wet/Dry fine sanding sponge
Subtotal: ~$18

Optional Materials:

Painting jig to hold the weapon. I simply dropped a chain from the ceiling with a hook on the end to hold the weapon
Sandpaper for metal (for anodized parts)
Understanding Wife (soon to be painting widow)
Lint free towels for cleaning

Ghetto: Creating a Stencil.
Go to my site and generate a stencil.
Some sample settings.
Color Type: Stencil B&W
Paper Size: 8.5x11
Pixel Size: 13 (this will yield ~1/8" squares when printed)
Quantity: 75
Drift: 1
Choose Digi for the pattern.
Click submit.

If you don’t like what you see hit F5 to reload the page.
Experiment with the values; you are doing a custom paint job after all.
Try to generate as much random patterns on page that you can. You will be cutting out each one separately.

Here is an example:

Next print the stencil to a laser printer.

I put my low tack stencil plastic in the manual bypass tray.

Make sure it prints the image on the plastic side, not the paper side.

Please be careful, some printers will not like this and I don’t want to get you in trouble with your IT department. Below are my settings on an old HP5000 LaserJet. I set it for manual feed tray and set the paper to “transparency”.

Start cutting out the stencils. I try to keep the blade touching at all times so that I don’t have small hanging chads.

FOR CRYING OUT LOUD, take your time.

Sloppy work here is just plain inexcusable.

You want a crisp sharp edge, nice 90’ angles and such.

Sloppy cuts will yield a crappy finish.

Patience young padowan. Remember, you have more TIME than money ghetto dawg!

(Make sure to not touch the tacky side of the stencils with your fingers, use your xacto blade to lift and set the stencil. The oils from your fingers will inhibit the stencil from sticking which will make your paint bleed under when you hit it with a blast from your spray can.)
TIP: When doing other camo style you actually want that feathered look. In those cases make all the edges less sticky by touching them with your fingers.
The Painting Process

Step One: Cleaning

Clean your marker and clean it damn good. Failure to do so will cause immense emotional scarring.

Use latex gloves. This will protect your digits and also keep you from depositing oils on the soon to be painted weapon.

Decide whether or not you want to strip the paint off of your old marker. M.E.K. will peel it all off. When working with chemicals of any sort, its generally a good idea to test it on a small surface (Say the bottom of your marker) to see how it reacts. Same with your hopper. I had no problems with M.E.K on my Model-98, other than the fact that it wanted to take off the original factory paintjob. I actually didn’t want this because it would entail a lot more scrubbing work. So after a quick cleaning with M.E.K. I rinsed it with water and wiped with alcohol.

MEK and paint strippers are nasty chemicals to work with. utilize proper protective equipment and procedures.
Gloves, Paint respirator and work in a well ventilated area. DO NOT TAKE CHANCES WITH YOUR HEALTH!

Step Two: Sanding

Take your sanding sponge, get it moist and scuff any smooth plastic areas, like your hopper. This will give the paint something to bite in to. Use a fine grit so that you don’t have any gouges. Rinse off any plastic dust.

My first attempt, at the very end when I pulled the stencil, voila, all the paint came off! So do it right the first time, lightly sand the plastic and make sure its clean when you are finished.

If you have any anodized aluminum or any other polished metal, you will need to sand it a bit for the paint to bite. (May require a special aluminium-oxide sand paper for metal surfaces (FINE GRIT or better). I tried steel wool to no real effect.

Mask off any areas you do not want paint to get into to. Like say, your open bolts, hopper feed tubes, etc...
I disassembled my marker, removed the bolt, placed masking tape inside to protect the internals.

Apply the basecoat.

This should be done slowly, and evenly.
It is better to apply 5 light coats than 1 heavy dripping coat.

Initiate the spray before you reach your marker, that way you have a nice fine mist hitting your gun. If you start right above your marker you risk globs and splotches. Not good. Not good at all young jedi.

Experiment with distances. If you spray from too far back, the paint particles will glob together making a nasty orange peel looking finish. For my airbrush 3 inches seemed good.

Basecoat of Urban White

Let it dry per the manufacturers instructions. Longer is better.
TIP: Using the oven
In general, yes you can cure your parts in a 100 degree over for 20mins - 1 hour.
But be careful, more residential ovens swing wildly. For protection, stick a rolled up towel in the door to prop it open.
Start placing stencils with the assistance of your xacto blade. Do not press them down until you are happy with the position. Remember, with Digital camo you want to make sure the pattern runs parallel/perpendicular to your marker. Once you are happy, press them down to make sure they stick.
Dont be afraid to cut your stencils up if they seem to large or too wide.

Urban White w/ Stencils applied.
Note: Everywhere you place a stencil on the basecoat will show through all subsequent layers. I tend to use smaller stencils on the basecoat so that I dont overwhelm the following layers.

Apply the next lightest color. Let it dry.
Repeat until you are done.

Snow Gray w/ Stencils Applied

After the weapon is dry, remove all the templates.

Now if you want you can place your female templates on the weapon now.

I tend to use these to cover up any areas where I feel the pattern is to large or to cover up areas where the paint peeled off with the stencil. It happens.

You may want to follow up with a matte clear coat for added durability. Plus it will even out the sheen of the different paints.

One final thought... Spray cans waste so much paint. I really prefer a small airbrush for this type of work.

Some more completed samples:

Last edited by wookie; 02-19-2007 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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HOWTO: Choose Paint for your next Paintjob

HOWTO: Choose Paint for your next Paintjob Here is a slick way to figure out what colors to paint your weapon.

Grab a photo of you Area of Operation. Try to make it a fairly large one photo (large as in terrain covered, not pixel size)

They take it into Photoshop.

Apply the following filter: Pixelate>>Mosaic (set cell size to around 35)



So I can tell that I will want a nice light tan and about 2 types of dark brown and a smidge of OD green or something similar.

If you dont have PS and want to have a photo pixelated, shoot me a PM and I'll whip it out for ya...
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You can also use MS paint! Just "Stretch/Skew" it from original horizontal and vertical down to %5(more or less depending on how large the picture is) for each, then resize it to %500 then %500 again(same thing as before, it depends on how big it started and how small it shrunk). It wont be the same size as the orginal pic but thats not important.

That picture took less than a minute to do, if I tried I probably could have nearly replicated Wookies by messing with the values.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 5x500x500.JPG (21.1 KB, 203 views)
Everyone says "Well maybe i'll make a difference",
Thinking they've got plenty of time
But you're squeezed a little tighter everyday
Finished before you can commit a crime
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Old 03-24-2007, 12:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Will duracoat bond to stainless steel or raw aluminium? If so what kind of prep is needed?
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Old 03-24-2007, 01:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by flyingpootang View Post
Will duracoat bond to stainless steel or raw aluminium? If so what kind of prep is needed?
It will. For prep I like to sandblast a bit to give it something to stick to, but the most important thing is to make sure its clean. So give all your parts a nice soaking in some sort of solvent, like laquer thinner. Then rinse it clean. Paintballs, finger oils, grime, they all play havock with paint adhesion.

Hope that helps,

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Old 06-17-2007, 12:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sean, Do you need to use primer on sandblasted aluminium or flexable primer for plastic parts?...Thanks Richard
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It will really depends on the paint you use.

While using duracoat, I don't need to use a primer. If you are using something like krylon, it wouldnt hurt to use one of their primer products.

Hope that helps,

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Old 11-15-2008, 05:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Wookie, Here is one of my camo jobs....Thanks for all of your help

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Old 03-11-2009, 02:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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With some of the paints being used(krylon) I fear the paint will chip. How do you keep it from chipping? Or is it just something you'd have to live with?
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