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Old 02-06-2015, 11:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Feb 2011

DJ Matt's ultimate Dye DAM mods and tricks....

I was tearing down my DAM a couple days ago to clean it up prior to trading it and decided to take pics of all the little improvements I've done to it. Some are very cheap and easy, some probably void the warranty so take what you will from this and proceed at your own risk.

1. Taking the wiggle out of the barrel carrier. This is a simple and cheap mod that helps to prevent the barrel from moving around. All that is required is some metal tape cut into a couple strips. They are attached around the barrel carrier in line with where the set screw contacts it. A word of caution if you are trying to eliminate the wiggle by cranking on the set screw, the carrier will warp and you will have a fun time trying to screw/unscrew your barrel. Only tighten the set screw snugly.

2. Reflector for eye/power light. This is another cheap and easy mod that will allow you to be able to see the led while shouldering the gun. All that is required is a small strip of metal, about 1.25" x 1/8 and some double sided tape. I bent the last 1/4" or so of it out at a little angle so the led reflects on it and I can see status of the eyes. I also covered up the firing mode leds since I only use semi and have it locked as such and its another light to give you away if you are playing in night games.

3. Stock removal mod. No parts required for this one. Just a dremel or a file to notch out the back of the buffer tube a little. This will allow you to slide the stock off without having to take the pins and springs out. Great for cleaning or if you change back and forth between stocks. One word of caution, don't do it to deep or it will slide off unintentionally when you extend it. I only went as deep as needed to still stop the stock when extended with the lever and then you can hook the pin and pull down a little more to remove the stock.

4. Iron man bolt mod. As some of you know, the iron man bolt doesn't work very good for FS's since the rubber tip tends to flip them. This mod helps when you are shooting standard paint. Small bored paint, when loaded from mags or box rotor, are pushed up and fall back into the chamber. The next ball in the stack pushes up creating a gap that the eyes can see thru and make the gun think there is not a ball in the chamber. Larger paint doesn't have as much problem with this. I glued an "X" ring onto the tip of the rubber bolt tip to extend it a little which prevents the balls from falling as far back into the chamber. It also helps to prevent the second ball from being chopped or smashed when the bolt goes forward and it is already part way into the chamber. This mod will prevent you from being able to shoot FS's with the iron man bolt in but works great for regular paint.

5. Better hopper plate cover screws. I picked up some 4-40 socket headed screws from home depot. They didn't have the 1/8" ones like the DAM needs so it doesn't interfere with the eye pipe so I cut down the ones I found. They use the same size allen wrench as all the other bolts on the DAM now and don't strip out like the stock ones.

6. Drilling the eye plate carrier. I did this to help the eyes function better. After the carrier gets a little scratched up and hazy or it gets a little dirty, they eye light starts to just flash green since it thinks there's always something blocking the eyes. I just removed the eyes and ran a drill bit thru where they set to allow unobstructed view between them. Caution, this can allow paint to get on the eyes if you break paint in the breech, but for me, it was worth it. This mod is also used as part of the next mod of relocating the eyes.

7. Relocating the eyes. This involves drilling new holes for the eyes and probably voids any warranty you have. As mentioned before, the chamber of the DAM is large and when shooting smaller paint from mags or the box rotor, the paint can get pushed up and back in the chamber creating a gap that the eyes look right thru. The eyes are located to low. I added two new holes that the eyes can fit in to help fix this problem. First I drilled a new hole back towards the bolt on the opposite side of the hopper cover. This was fairly easy since the slot for the wire is there. Later, I found that moving the eye up on the other side under the hopper cover seemed to work better. For this I had to channel out a little up towards the hole for the hopper feed and drill a new hole there. I did not try to use this setup with a hopper but I believe it would still be fine.

9. Shaving the magwell. Free and easy. This will help to protect your eye wires. The top edge of the magwell is fairly sharp and can cut or pinch your eye wire when you push it back into position. Using some sand paper or a file, you round off the edge.

10. Poor mans box mag. I attached a q-loader socket onto the bottom of a cut down magazine. It takes some playing around with to get the right length and amount of winds for the pods but it worked good once I got it working right. The first pic is a couple of the original attempts. The second pic is what I ended up with having the pod facing forward and shortening the mag so it didn't hang down so far.

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