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Old 03-27-2019, 01:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Lol, didnt realize this was a necro.
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so i super durped and there was no oring on the top i dont know why i though there was lol

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Old 04-05-2019, 10:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Looking at a rebel 45 frame. Might work
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Old 04-30-2019, 02:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Frame from a ACI F4. It is flat top like the one frame and has enough sear height that you need to shim it a little to get it to work.
The problem with the F4 frame is the sear spacing front to back in the frame.

Assuming the frame I bought is indeed an F4 frame, here is what I have found.

The Omen frame screws in the body are ~4.206" C-to-C.
The F4 frame screw holes are ~4.495" C-to-C.
Not bad, easy to slot or redrill holes.

The Omen sear height is ~0.255" above the frame.
The F4 sear height is ~0.264" above the frame.
Not bad, probably will work without modifying.

However, the distance from the front frame screw to the sear is ~2.853" on the Omen frame. Or ~1.363" from the rear frame screw.
This distance is ~3.581" on the F4 frame. Or ~0.914" from the rear frame screw.

You don't have enough wiggle room to make up for the difference in the distance to align the sear.

If you line them up side by side, you just barely have enough frame in the back to drill a new rear frame screw hole. But the front frame screw ends up exactly where the trigger return spring is.

You would need a completely new trigger to have enough room to operate without interference from the front frame screw. Might be able to trim the trigger and move the spring back a bit, but you are cutting it pretty close as far as room for the trigger to move. I'm going to try it, since I already bought the frame, but I am not exactly excited about the trigger's proximity to that front frame screw.

The F4 frame does fit perfectly along the bottom of the Omen body. The length is almost perfect from the back of the body to the vertical ASA.
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Old 04-30-2019, 03:18 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tinman74 View Post
Looking at a rebel 45 frame. Might work
A lot of the old Rebel and Spyder frames were designed to mate to rounded bodies. And I believe that the frame screw holes are closer to ~5.2" on the Rebels and Spyders.

I'm pretty sure that the front to back spacing for the sear to the rear frame screw hole is probably pretty close. Putting the front frame screw hole through about where the safety goes. Might even have to cut off some of the front of the frame so it doesn't hit the vertical ASA.

Those old Rebel frames were sweet, definitely give it a try if you have one.
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Old 05-01-2019, 02:06 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I have a rebel frame and an omen. Might have to check that out.
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If that works Discount Paintball has brand new rebel frames cheap
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Grinding the frame flat to the lowest point of the concave surface may help effectively raise the sear height, which should be beneficial.

Still might have to trim the trigger and possibly move the trigger return spring.

The safety is probably gone forever.

Still should be doable, though.
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Another option, if you can find a frame that lines up, would be to modify the trigger and sear to allow more upward travel. If the sear rests against a pin to stop upward travel, you can remove material from the sear just above the pin. That would allow the rear of the sear to be pulled up higher.
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Old 05-05-2019, 06:31 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Bolts on and has enough meat to redrill a front hole. Unfortunately, it doesn't have a sear anymore, so I can't say beyond thatName:  20190504_105727.jpg
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Old 05-06-2019, 02:29 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Interesting. I've got a couple of Omen and a Rebel (with sear) around here, I'll have to dig them out and check if it will work.
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