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Old 01-23-2019, 03:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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ICD Puma Safety Removal

I have a Puma all disassembled except for the Safety Button. Not sure how it comes out and I don't want to risk damaging it by just hammering on it. Anyone know the trick?.. If there is a trick.
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Old 01-23-2019, 08:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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2 ways to do it. sometimes you can just tap it out. but it can drive the ball bearing into the aluminum of the gun.
Best thing to do is remove the spring and bearing. The hole is usually just bent over a little with a punch or screwdriver. just clear the hole with a tiny screwdriver and dump the spring and ball out. Should be able to re-peen the hole after.
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Old 01-24-2019, 05:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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2 ways to do it. sometimes you can just tap it out. but it can drive the ball bearing into the aluminum of the gun.
Best thing to do is remove the spring and bearing. The hole is usually just bent over a little with a punch or screwdriver. just clear the hole with a tiny screwdriver and dump the spring and ball out. Should be able to re-peen the hole after.
Thank you for the info!... However, my Puma didn't have the ball and spring on top of the button, so I figured that they must be underneath (which they were). I had no choice but to punch the button out which caused some partially repairable damage to the button, but the aluminum body remained undamaged.




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Old 01-28-2019, 11:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Take the opportunity to polish or smooth that center hump if the safety is too hard to push.

I haven't had a Puma, but IIRC on the alley cats, you can stab a wire into the groove to help get the ball started under the end of the safety.

Are you going to ano?
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Old 01-28-2019, 11:45 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Are you going to ano?
Eventually yes... First I wanna make sure that my idea for a Mag Fed setup is going to work.
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Old 01-28-2019, 05:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The reason I ask is that the trigger pin is straight and friction fit. It will be loose if you anodize that hole. You can mask off the hole, or loctite the pin after, or use a taper pin instead, or try to upset one end of the straight pin (I haven't tried that one). It's not terrible, just really annoying after all of that work.
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Interesting... Why would the hole get bigger? Do they ream/lap it out prior to anodizing?... I’ll keep that in mind, Thank you.
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Old 01-28-2019, 08:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The anno process removes material. I have a FX anno'd Puma with ugly punch marks around the pin to keep it from falling out.
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Old 01-28-2019, 11:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I will DEFINATELY keep that in mind... Thank you both.
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Old 01-29-2019, 03:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I remembered why I didn't try to deform or upset the pin itself to make it fit tight; it is hardened, and I didn't want to soften and re-heat-treat it.

I think there is room to put some threads in the right side, so you could use a pin with a threaded head, ala automag RT rails (but larger). If you go short on the tap depth, it will seat itself. The left side has that long gas passage in it (alley cat), so I would try to stay away from that side unless you figure out exactly where it runs. That would be more secure than a taper pin or loctite. Finding the right pin might be a pain though.

***

That fit on the original pin is kind of impressive for a production blowback.
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