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Old 05-30-2010, 06:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Making a Spyder Low(er) Pressure

I have a stock Victor II that I want to use a lower input pressure on (max 500 psi or so). How do I go about getting it to playable velocities? Will a spring kit help? Will it require a volumizer?
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Old 05-30-2010, 07:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Polish the internals. Open up the air passages in the vertical adapter. You might look into an aftermarket valve or open up the stock one for better flow. I personally like the "older" style bodies with the fatty strikers. I just checked & I can get the Compact to recock reliably at sub-250 psi with no internal mods except for polishing & chrono at 280 FPS running around 350 PSI.

Great read. More than you want to know about a LP Spyders.
Linky:Otter's Project LP! - Spyder Forums
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Last edited by Yomama101; 05-30-2010 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I've been building mine.

So far I've used:
-Spring kit
-32 Degree Magnaport valve
-Trinity Front block (you could drill the air holes bigger on the stock one bigger, but the 15 degree reverse block makes the gun feel SO much better and it was $16 bucks without the hassle)
https://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-SPYDER-FRONT...ht_1502wt_1137
-CCM reg I have lying around.

My friend went to get air at the field for me today. I'll let you know how it goes when I add air.
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks! I am trying to get my backup Spyder working with an LP Vigilante I have (I am trying to find an HP spring for it). I will get a spring kit and see if I can get it to 280 fps without any more work (the regulator should be hitting 450-500 psi).
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
Thanks! I am trying to get my backup Spyder working with an LP Vigilante I have (I am trying to find an HP spring for it). I will get a spring kit and see if I can get it to 280 fps without any more work (the regulator should be hitting 450-500 psi).
probably use a soft valve spring then. i would upgrade in the order they mentioned above, polish internals, spring kit, then valve, then front block followed by bolt and hammer.
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Still working on mine, definitely polish the hammer, world of difference in terms of smoothness. I now have a mirror shine on the stock hammer, trying not to blow extras cash on the alamopb hammer. Right now I'm shooting a bit low, but I believe that it's the paint quality and size. Got a freak back too, will test FPS once I get my chrono back from my friend.
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Old 06-10-2010, 11:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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How would someone go about cupping the face of the hammer. Is it very beneficial?
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Old 06-10-2010, 11:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yomama101 View Post
Polish the internals. Open up the air passages in the vertical adapter. You might look into an aftermarket valve or open up the stock one for better flow. I personally like the "older" style bodies with the fatty strikers. I just checked & I can get the Compact to recock reliably at sub-250 psi with no internal mods except for polishing & chrono at 280 FPS running around 350 PSI.

Great read. More than you want to know about a LP Spyders.
Linky:Otter's Project LP! - Spyder Forums
ditto. magna flow valves are pretty inexpensive high flow valves.
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Old 06-11-2010, 02:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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How would someone go about cupping the face of the hammer. Is it very beneficial?
at first i thought so, but then i thought not really.
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Before the first day Velcor said let there be Heinous and it was true. And then Heinous said "Let there be God" and it was true. And it was good
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Old 06-11-2010, 02:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok.

And lastly, is doing the home magnaport valve mod better, or is it just as good to just enlarge the air transfer hole?
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