halfbacking a Spyder
Can anyone move this to the custom project section? or is there some dumb way I can move it?
How far can you cut off without ruining the function of the marker? I just bought a project gun to work off, it's an old Spyder Victor. I am going to be milling in a rather thin flame design, that I am going to custom paint and clear coat over. I haven't received the marker yet, but it should be here next week.
I am counting on this to take a very long time to be completed, but I'm hoping to keep it functional most of the way through. I'm also going to replace the bolt with a delrin replacement, add an electronic grip with eyes, and most likely adding a nice regulator.
This is probably not going to end well, and if it doesn't at least I know of a few places that sell old spyder bodies for $15 a piece. Hope to have some bigger pictures when I receive the marker, as these are kind of small.
Something like you show in your sketch would be fine. You could even cut further up but if you do I'd keep the cut line in the form of a flame look. As long as the upper tube is back to solid about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch behind the rear Oring when it's in the forward "fired" position all will be well. Mind you at that point the Orings will be traversing flame bits so radius and polish or ramp the points where the Orings pass by an edge of metal so that the metal smoothly wedges the Orings down into their grooves.
Thanks for the help, that actually gave me quite the idea on how to make this look, and shoot even better. I'll probably get around to adding that into the drawing sometime next week. I'm thinking I'll probably cut this as far as I possibly can, while still keeping the marker functional.
As of now I'm building this for me to use for a season, then sell. Thing is chances are I'm going to get seriously hooked on this thing, and not stop customizing it till it doesn't work anymore. :ROTFL: I'm thinking about using this as a testing platform for my Pnu-spyder. Should be a very interesting project, and I have a very simple idea on how to complete it, and keep it functioning at high speeds.
I am just realizing this would probably get a lot more views and responses in the custom section. If anyone reads this and can move it for me that would be very helpful. I'm not all that sure on this forums policies on moving stuff around, but I figure it probably wouldn't be a good idea to repost it there.
Just curious, how does the spyders antichop bolt work? I can't seem to figure it out, so if someone could explain it to me as I can't seem to find and diagrams of it, only pictures of the bolt itself. Mostly I just want to know if I could fit one into this marker to save myself from having to go electronic, and fitting eyes on this thing. As I would much rather try to make the pnu-spyder and have it not chop.
Well thanks for your time reading me blab on about my newest project, but I'm pretty pumped about it. As I actually care for this design.
The antichop works by using a spring to let the nose of the bolt stop even though the striker and back/inside core of the ACS bolt keeps coming forward. When the ACS bolt spring is soft enough it'll let this all happen and still let the marker recock to fire the pinched ball on the next firing cycle. When the bolts are new they sometimes chop anyhow because the spring is too stiff. Spyder gurus recomend removing the bolt and "exercising" it by collapsing the bolt and letting it spring back while watching TV or something. It takes a few thousand compression cycles to soften it up but when it works it works well. When it doesn't it may as well be a one piece bolt.
Well I have the marker, I disassembled and have been taking measurements. As of now I'm working on drawing out the flame design on the body. Anyone know thick the pressurized areas of the marker need to remain structurally sound? I was thinking I should just not take any off around the pressurized areas, just to save myself from any possible ruptures. The plan now is to replace the trigger frame with a totally custom 90* frame, with a pneumatic trigger. I'm thinking this will probably be the hardest part of making this gun, as I have to mill the whole frame with an old manual mill, but it should be fun, so that's all I care.
Earlier today I replaced the trigger spring, and removed the venturi from the stock bolt. After which I polished the internals. Now I have the marker totally dissembled, and getting ready to cut. Hardest part about this is probably going to be getting myself to be ok with possibly breaking a working marker. :ROTFL:
Also as for the paint, a good friend of mine suggested that he might buy it off me if I do it black with red flames. I'm thinking that that would actually look sweet, so that is what I'm going to do.
Well I started on the cutting, and managed to keep myself from breaking the gun.
This is after the halfbacking, it still needs the details cut in. I just have the general shape cut so far, but it still looks and works fine.
This is while I was cutting.
Before I started cutting, at this point I was taking measurements.
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