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Old 12-05-2011, 10:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Talfuchre's Avatar
Join Date: May 2006

CCM T2 Full Review - Work in Progress.

Melissa from CCM notified me via e-mail that she would be shipping me a marker in order to write a manual. Rod called me, told the basics of the new marker and then told me he was not shipping me a assembled marker - but that I would have to assemble the marker myself. I thought this was a good idea as the first thing I do when writing a manual or a review is to rip the gun apart - and I would rather not have to break Loc-tite unless I have to. The marker parts came UPS ground and I was e-mailed a tracking number when it was shipped. It arrived on time and in great condition and well packed.

I quickly opened the box and got to work assembling the marker. I was sent an entire T2 marker along with multiple feeds (left, right, and center) as well as multiple feed necks (No Rise, No-Pro, and Winchester).

Obviously there was no manual for this marker (update: I have finished this manual and have uploaded it to the manuals section of Pumpenstein: 2006 NSA National Champions) so I was on my own to figure it out.

There was also no parts kit with my marker - but Rod informs me that they will be including a small parts kit as well as a small set of wrenches in order to do basic maintenance on the marker. In my opinion the parts that should be included in this kit should be:

1) Three Allen Keys 3/16th, 1/8th, 5/32 (These would allow the user to set the reg, adjust the IVG, and tighten the low rise collar.)
2) A T-10 Torx Wrench
3) a spare detent.
4) Reg Seat O-ring
5) Marker oil (either Air Tool Oil, KC Concepts, or some equivalent)
6) Cup Seal and pin

There are few working parts on a pump marker - but this would fix the vast majority of the problems that one might encounter.

Assembling the Marker:

The good news is that the T2 is a very simple marker, simpler than the S6, and assembles with very little issue. As I was used to the S5, SS25, and S6, assembling the marker took very little time and effort.

Fit and Finish:

The markers fit, polish and finish are unbelievable. Top notch. I am VERY happy with this look. The marker feels smooth and positive in the hand and pumps nearly effortlessly. You can simply rock the marker sharply in your hand and it cocks. All of the parts match perfectly and the anno is deep black.

I set the timing on the back block, set the regulator pressure to 300 PSI, and the I.V.G at 3 turns in from flush with the back of the marker. The T2 uses a different main spring and thus takes one additional turn to make it shoot at a proper velocity.

One thing that was fixed from the previous model is that the ASA is longer and the fitting can swing under the trigger frame for a smooth direct line of Macro Line to be made.

Parts and pieces:

Feed Neck:

Another welcome addition over the SS-25 is that the feedneck is not only removable - but that it is a two part assembly. There is a mounting adapter that is screwed on first to the top tube and then the feedneck is screwed on to this mounting adapter:

This allows for the adapter to be screwed down with easy access to the screws and very little chance of marring the feedneck with the allen key as was normal on the SS-25 and Series 6 P.

Trigger Frame:

I thought that the S6 frame was light - but the T2 frame is the slim frame that used to be standard on the SS-25. It is VERY thin and although silly light it may be too thin for the meat fisted. The good news is that CCM is making a standard thickness frame for the T2 now - so you can order yours with that choice.



The chassis is where the major difference is between the S6 and the T2. CCM made the T2 to have a removable top tube (via two T-10 Torx screws that are recessed into the breach). This allows for the fast removal of the top tube and maximal versatility for different types of play.


With just a few screws and some time, a person could go from Center Feed to left or right feed. There was rumors of a Stock Class feed being made to fit the center feed - but Bill (owner of CCM) seems to be waffling on this addition at this point. People who want the T2 to have a stock class option need to let Bill know.

Half Block:

Of course this top tube is an integral portion of the T2's true purpose - to be a half block sniper. The bolt is smaller and the half block designs removes the large back block, long pump rod, and beaver tail.

This takes quite a bit of weight off the marker (about 4 ounces total) and makes the package more compact during play (as the beaver tail is removed) and the chance of getting lens bite is removed (smacking your goggles with the back block during play).


The marker comes standard with a single detent installed in the top tube of the T2. You can see it below to the left of the Torx wrench:

A single detent is more than enough for a pump marker and having a cheap replacement option is great (it takes Spyder Detents).


The bolt, of course, is tiny in comparison to the stock one and have a small slot milled in it for the detent. This slot, however, is not deep enough to completely miss the detent and I would like to see a few more thousands taken off here.

Another addition to this plain bolt would be the 'Circle C' Chipley Logo to match the pump to be placed on the back of the bolt. Other than the size, this bolt does its job and fits perfectly with the breach and the back block.

Lower Tube Back Cap:

One thing that I have never liked about modified snipers that have been turned into half blocks is that that IVG hangs out like an eye sore and contributes to the marker looking modified and not meant for the purpose it has been pressed in to. CCM helps this by making the bottom tube especially for this purpose as well as adding a back vanity cap. This is taken off with a 1/4" Allen key and it allows for the insertion of a 3/16th wrench that is used to adjust the IVG and thus the velocity. This is where the T2 shines - well thought out additions to their marker.

Dual Rod and Dual Guides:

The dual guide rod's of CCM have set them apart from single rod pumps for years. The addition of the second small rod prevented binding and added to making a pump stroke more smooth. CCM did away with the second guide rod for the T2, as mentioned above, but have managed to keep all of the smoothness and bind free action of the previous models. This is due to a dual guide rod hole system that is integral to the bottom tube. Both pump arms slide through these holes before sliding into two holes in the back block and makes a very positive feeling marker as well as a well put together package.

I would like to see the front single guide rod fluted like on the Series 5 if not for a little weight savings but for the cool factor that the fluting brings to the package.

Auto Trigger Pin:

One change as seen above the the removal of the Auto Trigger screw to attach the Auto Trigger to the Pump Arm. The T2 uses a small threaded post set in the pump arm and a slot cut in a solid AT arm. The gain is an even smoother pump and a great looking execution.

Auto Trigger Cam Retaining Pin:

Another cool addition to the grip frame, and a welcome on for those that expereinced a wandering AT Cam and Arm, is the Auto Trigger Cam Retaining Pin. This pin drops in to the top of the T2's grip frame, matches with a slot machined into the cam and stops any play the Cam used to have. It is a replacement to the overly tiny and easy to loose ball and spring that CCM added to their frames sometime last year and works perfectly. Totally hidden, underappreciated to a new user, but excellent for those familiar with the problem.


The marker came stock with the Delrin panels installed by Chipley. It is very small in your hand and I replaced them with some Pumpestein clear panels (no we are not selling them - if you have a pair - you earned them) for the photo's. If you have larger hands like I do, however, I would like to see CCM offer some skelotonized spacers to fit under a set of panels or a wrap around grip. I plan on installing a pair of Dye Stickies or Hogue wraparound style grips after fashioning a set of spacers. This is completely subjective to a persons hands however and the weight savings of the slim panels are nice.

Pump and Pump Arms:

The pump is completely different to match the loss of a pump guide rod that the T2 sports. A second guide rod is not needed on the T2 as the marker is a dual pump rod design and guide the holes cut in the body prevent any real twisting or binding that might occur.

The pump, although very different looking, is VERY comfortable for small and large hands alike and allows for ambidexterity very nicely. The more aggressive milling allows for a VERY positive grip and the lack of polish in this portion does not detract from the looks of the T2. I think this pump is superior to the S5 and S6's pumps in nearly every way. The Circle C logo on the front is a nice touch and finishes off a well executed pump.

Overall feel in hand:

Again, if you thought the Series 6 was light - this marker, with 45/4500 and a hopper full of paint comes in under 4 pounds. It is a full 4 ounces lighter than the S6. What worried me, in fact, once the marker was together was that the marker would be too light. One thing I did not like about my Phantom (when in Open Class set up) was that it was too light and moved too much during auto trigger. The T2 seems not to be 'too light' and I was having little problem shooting it with the same accuracy I enjoyed with my Series 6.

In fact, the transition from S6 to T2, for those making it, will be very easy. It is easier to maneuver than the S6 and not so light that it feels like a totally different gun.

I said when I was reviewing my Series 5, that I have become accustomed to being spoiled by CCM, the T2 confirms it. There is little to tinker with, little to mess with, and little to worry about when shooting. It just points and shoots.

There is little more one could ask for when buying a marker. However, this is how it should be with a marker that has + 500$ price tag.


This is, by far, the most subjective portion of this review. I never liked the 'tube and grip' look of the original automag, but appreciated the Spartan feel and sensibility that it brought to the paintball world at that time. The T2 has very few frills in terms of looks and some have thought, myself included, that it looked a little plain. I still think that after being used to the scalops and dollops put on the Series 6 that the T2 is a little too Spartan - but on the playing field I would care less. The no frills approach will appeal to many and the ones who don't care for the looks may be able to overlook it as I had considering the performance and weight savings.

One thing that does not add to the looks, however, is the fact that CCM has taken the Circle C logo off the front of their on/off as well as taking off the CCM logo from their rails. I think these little touches always added to the CCM package and would love to see them back.

I spoke to Bill about the lack of milling on the T2. He told me that with the milling machines they have at CCM / DPM that changing the aesthetics is simply a matter of inputting the appropriate program. His quote to me was that 'If we wanted it to look like a Series 6 - that would be little problem - it would just have two tubes in its design.' I think this means we can look forward to newer series markers in the T2 line that have the performance of the original T2 but have the looks akin to a S6. Here is to hoping.

Initial Feelings:

I think CCM waited the appropriate amount of time before releasing this marker. It has the vast majority of the bugs worked out and the only changes I would make are mostly subjective and cosmetic. I think Rod summed it up best by telling me 'The last thing we wanted to do was release a new marker that was simply a chopped S6. We wanted to add some quality and some new features to the T2.' I agree, the dual rods, single guide rod, restyled pump, AT connection changes, removable feedneck, bottom tube end cap, hidden detent, and of course the removable top tube make this marker not simply a half blocked S6 - but a marker that is new to the CCM line and new to the paintball world.

Overall, I would give this marker a 9 out of 10 - one point off for being 'plain'.

After shooting it the first time:

I set the velocity by ear, got some year old paint (it is the first bag I grabbed) and walked out to the neighbors back yard. They weren't home... and it was 102 outside - they have more shade.

I was +/- 3 over the Chrono and by the settings I have put in the manual was right around 300 FPS. I was very happy with the performance of the T2 considering the old paint. I was hitting a rake handle in their back yard one after another and found the auto trigger very easy to use. I used the corner of their house as a mock bunker and practiced my snap shooting. It was VERY easy to snap shoot with and I even found hitting moving targets (I will not mention the source of this moving target) very easy. Within a hopper or two - there was very little to do. I could drive nails all day long, but it was getting toward 5 pm and I worried about the neighbors coming home and me having to bunker them.

I was very impressed with the ball to ball accuracy and the performance of the regulator in terms of consistency.

As I degassed the marker I noticed something that was a bit odd - I was able to get two full shots off the marker with it degassed in comparison with the one that I normally get with my Series 6.

A weight comparison with the hammer from the T2 and the Hammer and Cocking rod confirmed that there is a weight difference (about 8 grams lighter for the T2) that may be contributing to this perceived efficiency increase. I also found out that the T2 uses a slightly lighter main spring because of the space taken up by the lower tube back cap. This also may mean a more efficient marker.

However, a lot more testing is going to be needed to see if the marker is more efficient and if so, why.

After the first time over a good chrono is a controlled condition:

This marker is every bit as consistent over the chrono with good paint as the S6. I am usually +/- 3 or less over the Chrono with my markers - and the T2 is right with them. Simply ball on ball accuracy because of this.


I did a lot of testing concerning this with a 22 CI tank and my Series 6. It appears that the T2 is almost 40% more efficient than my S6! I am not sure why, Bill and Rod are not sure why, but there is a lot more efficiency with the T2. The hammer is a little lighter and the spring is a lot lighter but the valve and the rest of the bottom tube components are the same. I think the spring has a LOT to do with the efficiency. Regardless of its cause the T2 is head and shoulders more efficient than the S6, which was already a decently efficient marker.


I am not sure what to say here. If the marker that I shoot is not accurate, I simply don't shoot it. This marker is just as accurate as any high end quality marker on the market. Pump shooters know that pump markers are no more accurate than their semi counter parts - and the T2 is the same. Very accurate out of the box.


This marker is just a bit more smooth on the pump stroke than the S6 and because of this higher speeds can be generated by quick hands. The S6 was already capable of 6-7 balls per second in capable hands and the T2 is no different. Very fast, a very positive feel, and very smooth.

Longevity Review:

I have now been shooting this marker for over a year and a half. Marker time gets spread between this and my Series 6.5 mostly. I have come to love the simplicity, lightness, and efficiency of the T2. In the year and a half I am sure I have shot more than 40 cases of paint through this marker. I have not replaced a single o-ring detent due to malfunction. Every 6 months it is my habit to replace the two working o-rings in the reg - but beyond those - this marker has not malfunctioned in a serious way on the field.

The only issue that creeps itself into my game play is when the hammer gets paint or dirt on it. When this happens, and it isn't too bad, the velocity will get a little erratic. When it gets truly fouled - the marker will shoot 250 feet per second, or so, until you clean the hammer and the bottom tube. This started to happen to me last weekend. Three allen keys and about 5 minutes later - the problem was solved and I was back in business. I was crawling in a creek bed and was making a mess of my marker.

The T2 has become one of my most favorite CCM markers in my stable.

Pumpenstein - NSA National Champions

TF's MCB Trust.

Last edited by Talfuchre; 12-18-2011 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This is an excellent review, and exactly what I was looking for.

"If everyone is thinking alike, someone isn't thinking."
General George Patton

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Old 12-18-2011, 06:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Review is now finished and I am reopening the thread.

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Old 12-18-2011, 06:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That's good news, but I wouldn't expect anything less from CCM!

I'm waiting for mine as we speak.
Originally Posted by Talfuchre View Post
I will lock this damned thread up if anyone posts that disgusting picture I saw once.
It like the CCM version of Two Girls One Cup.
I will ban folks.... I swear.
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey TF,

No love for the S6 anymore? Do you feel that guns like the t2/s6.5 or the new prototype will replace full blocked guns? Should they?

I recently got a S6 and I prefer it over te T2. I do not like the exposed hammer.

Last edited by EDDAKA; 12-21-2011 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I think it is all personal preference. I love full body guns but also love my T2. I'd like to see a full body T2 option. I think Feyd has one, have to find the pic.

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Old 12-22-2011, 11:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Here it is, I might have to email CCM and see about getting a full body with the internal cocking system.


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Old 09-02-2012, 03:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Orlando, Fl

I played with a friend's T2 a few weeks ago, I found the trigger pull to be a little weird compared to other markers I've used. For me it wouldn't fire unless I pulled rather hard on the trigger. Meaning, I would pull the trigger all the way back, no shot, squeeze a little harder and it would shoot.

is that normal or was I doing something wrong?
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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you need to raise the lug a bit.
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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We have a CCM forum for these questions.

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