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|09-29-2017, 06:34 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
another sleeper pneumag frame (SOLD)
Dye NT sleeper pneumag frame
$225 shipped SOLD
Test shooting video:
- Dye NT frame (with internal milling)
- MAC-33 solenoid valve
- Clippard SM-6 piston, shortened and modified
- WGP ďOutkastĒ LPR
- Proto on/off ASA with bleed
- new tool-less grips
- special LPR key and body screw included
This is my second NT pneumag frame, and Iíve improved a few aspects of the design from the first. (The mounting bracket and safety are better, in particular.) Instead of using a rod to link the trigger to the valve, I attached a bracket to the back of the trigger that reaches down to activate the MAC-33. In the end, this is simpler than the trigger rod method. There are no random pieces you have to worry about losing if you ever take it apart. There are no holes drilled in the trigger guard. And all the important stuff happens behind the bearings, so the trigger is adjustable.
I really have to stop and say how nice that is. Most pneumags donít have adjustable triggers. The trigger needs to be where it is to hit the rod correctly. Otherwise it wonít work, or the safety wonít work. But this trigger can go forward or backward by adjusting two set screws.
And, of course, this is a Dye frame, so itís light and comfortable. It uses a MAC-33 solenoid valve, which has less travel and faster recharge than the usual Fabco MSV-2. The on/off ASA works well. The safety is homebuilt, and it does travel a little more than Iíd prefer, but it works well. And I recently acquired a mill, so the internal cuts look pretty nice (and theyíre completely hidden when you install the grips).
This frame does have some "issues" worth noting.
1. Itís too long for a classic length rail. I mean, you could use it with a classic rail, but you wonít have space for a foregrip. So I recommend an RT length rail.
2. The top of the frame too shallow for a twist-lock assembly, so you will need to use a ULE body. I can modify it to work with a classic body, if thatís really a deal breaker for you, but it wonít be as pretty.
3. The valve mounting bracket turned out a little thicker than I'd like. The grips fit over it easily, but not flush to the frame (at least not near the trigger), and if you look straight on from the front, you can see the bracket. I don't think this is a big deal, but I just wanted to point it out.
4. Finally, the safety sticks a little, but it works well, and I think it should loosen up with use.
Installation should be easy. You only need to remove the trigger arm from your sear, bolt this onto your Automag, and fiddle with the LPR level a little. Iíll include a special, shorter body screw to match the frame, and you can use your standard field strip screw for the back. I will also send you a link to a video ďuserís manualĒ that Iíve put on YouTube. And of course, I'll always be here if you have any questions in the future.
Last edited by rawbutter; 10-05-2017 at 06:48 PM.
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