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Old 07-18-2016, 11:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You can also powder coat, plasti-dip, or vinyl wrap aluminum if you're worried about nicking and scratching it. Aluminum is inherently resilient to corrosion and oxidization. It's one of the reasons it became so popular and useful besides it's strength to weight ratio.
Just keep it clean.
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Old 07-19-2016, 10:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Aluminum corrodes into a harder substance that protects the underlying aluminum from further corrosion. For this reason, aluminum is also considered self healing, as any scratch will corrode into the harder substance.

Scientific discovery: Why aluminum doesn't rust: 5/00

Also, your hands will provide enough oil to protect your aluminum parts. For instance, if you have actual silverware, you only have to polish it if you are not using it, constantly putting your oil on it.
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Old 07-20-2016, 04:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I have never had an issue with non-anodized parts. I just tend to polish when I get home and its good to go.

Also: the new thread name is hilarious.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I looked some more into it. I figured un anodized aluminum would be easier to scratch, but that doesn't seem to be so. Anodization does appear to increase the metals holding onto lubricants. And the anodization layer does seem to be thicker than the normal aluminum oxide layer. But I couldn't get a straight answer that it actually increased hardness/scratch resistance.
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It absolutely creates a layer of hardness and scratch resistance. When you polish up raw aluminum you can take your fingernail and scratch it. Also if say you are playing with a raw bodied autococker the Lower tube will get chewed up very quickly from the hammer. Threads will also strip out if you are not careful with them.


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Old 07-26-2016, 04:58 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I looked some more into it. I figured un anodized aluminum would be easier to scratch, but that doesn't seem to be so. Anodization does appear to increase the metals holding onto lubricants. And the anodization layer does seem to be thicker than the normal aluminum oxide layer. But I couldn't get a straight answer that it actually increased hardness/scratch resistance.
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It absolutely creates a layer of hardness and scratch resistance. When you polish up raw aluminum you can take your fingernail and scratch it. Also if say you are playing with a raw bodied autococker the Lower tube will get chewed up very quickly from the hammer. Threads will also strip out if you are not careful with them.


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Aluminum when exposed to air forms a layer of aluminum oxide. If you didn't know this already but, Aluminum oxide in particle form is used in many grades of sandpaper and also as sandblasting media due to it's hardness. Type II anodizing (found on most paintball products) produces a thicker layer of Aluminum Oxide than natural oxidation, while Type III is even thicker (wiki) but, more expensive. I can't think of too many paintball products that use Type III but, LAPCO for certain does on some (if not all) of their products.
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Pretty much already stated, but putting it perhaps in a clearer manner:

When Aluminum oxidizes (corrodes) it creates aluminum oxide on the surface, which becomes a passive layer (meaning it actually prevents further corrosion). Aluminum oxide is harder than standard aluminum and so it's more scratch resistant. Aluminum oxide will form naturally with exposure to air. It will form a bit faster and thicker with skin oils and such. It basically looks white and powdery.

Anodizing simply adds dyes to this layer and builds it up thicker and more evenly.
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