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Old 03-09-2017, 06:25 AM   #21 (permalink)
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P-Karnivor

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Originally Posted by rcarnwath View Post
I would be happy with a karni without the eye ribbon and not drilled, call it k2 and be done.
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Originally Posted by peter View Post
make it as close to original as possibile

Preferably full block, angled reg, two tone anodizing (gloss and mate) and definitely blind, undrilled body. Although some tricky detent would be nice... good luck!!!
No ball detent needed, as a pump it has a Freak bored Kaner to match the paint well ...



Angel

Last edited by Spduca998; 03-09-2017 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 03-09-2017, 06:40 AM   #22 (permalink)
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WOW !!!

Congrats !!!

...but how? ...when? ...where?

and how much?

is it one of the "pbgateway" karni bodies?

Last edited by peter; 03-09-2017 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 03-09-2017, 09:50 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Even as a pump with a tight breach to paint fit you will need a detent in the marker. Otherwise you can still get double feeds and partial double feeds leading to chops. I'm guessing that's one of the non drilled karni bodies that seem ever so elusive.
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:16 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Blind Blind P-Karnivor

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Originally Posted by peter View Post
WOW !!!

Congrats !!!

...but how? ...when? ...where?

and how much?

is it one of the "pbgateway" karni bodies?
It's a production rejected (banjo hole un-align) raw body that I bought to a member, fixed (custom pump guide/banjo hole align) and tuned by Mr.Carter. He disagree to drill it for a ball detent, stated that it was not needed.

Angel

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Old 03-10-2017, 09:12 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I have a friend who had a Karni of that rejected run. He ruined it, in my opinion, by adding detents. I would have proceeded as you did, had that been my build.

How is the R07 paint down in the PR?
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:01 AM   #26 (permalink)
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...watching this space :-D
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:20 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spduca998 View Post
It's a production rejected (banjo hole un-align) raw body that I bought to a member, fixed (custom pump guide/banjo hole align) and tuned by Mr.Carter. He disagree to drill it for a ball detent, stated that it was not needed.

Angel
detents might be useful , but I definately wouldn't dare to drill "blind" karnivor body

Last edited by peter; 06-05-2017 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:28 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Would be cool if they implemented a detent along the lines of the ressi/sniper detent and cover.
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Old 06-05-2017, 02:24 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Would be cool if they implemented a detent along the lines of the ressi/sniper detent and cover.
I respectfully disagree.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:14 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I have a "Karni 2" design in Inventor. Tweaking a couple things here and there to get it just right. Probably not going to call it a Karnivor since I believe PBGateway retains all rights on that... so maybe Predavor, Tyrant, Karnifex... IDK, something else from the Warhammer 40k Tyranid army list, lol.

Functional: 11/16" valve, full bore (Merlin-style) bottom tube but the front frame screw hole is sticking out of the body so no need for the extra meat like an AKA. 3/4"-20 banjo bolt. Rather than dealing with an ICS, made it a combo midblock/bobtail (midblock with large windows) which eliminates the back block & cocking rod and is functionally an ICS. ID feedneck mount. Front-block is a 3/4"x20 version of the current Karni.

Appearance: Take the old humpback scales and make them more defined, larger, more "flared" up with compound curves on each scale. For the top slot, the 'hump' is split more into a left and right lobe more for the bolt pin to move in between without protruding. Then, under the scales on the hump, a window, sort of like a dragon cut half-block karni, but more meat left on the bottom too so its a proper mid-block. The window looks a lot like a squinting eye. Then front of top tube has a couple large scales. Bottom tube is where I'm still trying to figure out some things as far as looks. There are sort of claw marks that I debate if they should be tiny window holes into the hammer and spring area... not sure. The "claw marks" end up looking a LOT like the Nummech pyro/fire-cocker milling. I'm trying to keep the original look's 'class' to avoid ending up like some cheesy looking Bob Long Reptile derivative.
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