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Outlaw / Private Fields Playing paintball in your backyard or other non-business run field

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Old 03-11-2015, 10:31 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I've found it wise to test the paints to make sure barrel diameter doesn't change the speed much. I've had players promise they won't trade or swear they didn't smuggle paint it. But they do. Some go so far as to put their smuggled paint in their tubes and then topping the tubes off with 10 or 12 of our paintballs to try to escape detection. When we find them its always "Oh I only had a few" A lot of players just don't respect how hard it is to run a field and keep people safe. They are all about how can I cut the cost so I can shoot more?
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Old 06-13-2015, 07:04 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchman View Post
We have a standing policy on our field, no extra barrels go on the playing field. We make it clear in the safety brief that if you want to change a barrel, CO-2 or Air tank you must re-chrono before you go back on field. We explain it's for the safety of all and if you don't do it you leave.
That would make it a challenge with my 7 oz tanks. Properly filled, I only get 225 shots max and letting a tank run out on a 68-Special (Siphon only) turns it into a paint shredder. I would have to vent the 20 oz between games and refill to be sure not to run out. I can see where you are coming from though. There needs to be a free standard Ref manual designed to teach new refs (and some old ones) what to watch for and WHY. My old peeve was watching dry ice coming from standard markers that are using a regular non-siphon tank. They would deliberately flood the valve and get 2 to 4 really hot rounds to follow. They would be quick to fire those shots if called for a Chrono by a Ref. A Go-Cam recording of them in the charging and firing act should get them kicked out regardless of Chrono readings. There is also an obvious lack of understanding in allowing for Chrono with a small diameter ball then playing with a larger diameter or worse, first strikes. Unfortunately the cheaters know this and would prefer it not become common knowledge. I'm all for exposing cheat methods and taking away the "I didn't know excuse".
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Last edited by StrayBlackCat; 06-17-2015 at 01:52 AM. Reason: Tank size 7 not 9
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:17 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Here's one that gave me grief for weeks, talk about expanding refs or staff knowledge. Going back about 15 years, I bought a players gear, yet another one getting done and moving on to something else. Not uncommon we buy used gear all the time. He had a 20 oz tank and goggs and an f-4 Illustrator if I remember right. The gun didn't match our rentals so we sold it, the goggs were toast so we chucked those. But the tank went into the fleet. It was a 20 in hydro with no leaks. That's a good find. Shortly after we began to see odd problems. Every so often we would come to a rental gun that was shooting hot when we would chronoy for the days play, No big deal we would back it down, then the next time out we would see a gun that way low. Drove us crazy, some weeks it wouldn't happen some it would. We thought it might be a player cranking the adjusters, but it wasn't. The 20 oz tank we took in had been equipped with an anti syphon valve. That's a valve that has a copper tube dropping into the tank and it curves up to touch the top of the bottle. This prevents it from feeding liquid. Or at least helps prevent it. But it has to be timed for the marker. To make one you have to screw the valve into the gun and then fit the tube to the valve so the tail points up at 12 oclock. Then you put the lock-tite on and screw the bottle on to the valve. That means it's "timed" for this gun. It may not point up on others. The threads on valves are cut without "timing" which means they can vary from marker to marker. So this Anti syphon tank would float around the fleet, when it got used the marker might work fine if it happened to point the tail at 11 to 1 oclock but if it were pointed from 4-8 oclock it became a syphon tank and feed liquid. That's why some weeks we would see the spike in speed and cut it back the next time that marker went out if it were on a normal tank it would be very low. We had 200 guns and about the same number of tanks in the fleet at that time. Talk about a pain in the butt to find and solve this problem. I bet we were 6 months finding the tank and getting the anti syphon tube out of that valve. That was a pain and all the kid had to do was mention it was an anti syphon and I could have pulled the tube before it hit the fleet. He might not have even known. Who knows. But there is a lot of knowledge required to make sure things are right and safe. If it's true knowledge you can never have too much. Unless it's about making sausage, then you just don't want to know!! hehe
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Last edited by dutchman; 06-14-2015 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:44 PM   #54 (permalink)
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The dry ice snow is the best indicator of any siphon action or liquid CO2 out the valve and a Red Flag to watch if "SIPHON TANK" is not clearly labeled on the tank. Can't happen on just CO2 gas. Tippmann recommends against the use of anti-siphon valves probably for the reason you just gave.
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:19 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Also remember that the newer bottom lime adaptors are built with a slight angle like 15 degrees. This keeps the tanks at a back down angle when on the guns. This helps to keep liquid away from the valve when shooting, It's a little help, but the early ones like the duckbills were flat and they would easily feed liquid when the tanks were full. That 15 degrees was a good idea.
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