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Old 12-18-2017, 10:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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shooting hockey

hey.

I shoot a decent enough canon with crop-sensor (one of the 3.1 whatevers) and I have the stock lens and a white-box 75-300

Lighting at hockey rinks is terrible. The kids are flying.

So I have tried 'sport mode' which is nice... but I am not getting what I would call 'nice' photos... I mean nice for 2005, but not 2017 nice.

Yesterday I put it on TV or something and quickly looked down at the little mini screen on the back and thought: Hallelujah! It's bright! But whatever setting that was HATED movement. I was at a rare arena with no glass between the players and myself, and blew my one chance to get those nice shots...

what should I do? I understand the concept that "Quick shutter speed" will reduce the blur, or sharpen the image, so how do I set this? I also understand that the wider something opens the more it can take in (wink) so I get that the aperture sho0uld be bigger?

ANy help from smarter/est people would be great!

No, not you Diomedes... unless you're also a photographer...
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Shoot manual with auto ISO. Start at F8 and 125 shutter speed and adjust the aperture lower to make sure the ice is your focal plane.

For action you may find yourself also going with a faster shutter speed. The whiteness of the ice may throw off the auto ISO setting so you may need to shoot full manual. If that's needed start at ISO 200 and try not to go above ISO 800.

You could probably use half or a quarter of the ice as your depth of field if you are just getting one player. Or use a depth of field calculator Depth of Field Table if you want to get more scientific.

For single subjects Set focusing mode to AI servo AF. This is the most important part. Select a square to the right or left depending on which way you predict the subject to move. Lock on and let the camera focus track the moving object and click the shutter.

For multiple subjects use a wider f-stop setting and focus on a player in the center of the ice (not position, but centered from your point of view).

Don't use zoom. Keep at one focal length so you can set your shots consistently with trial and error.

Unfortunately this is one of those settings where most automatic settings are going to fail horribly due to the whiteness of the ice and the reflections. Make sure auto white balance isn't turned on either.

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Old 12-18-2017, 10:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Here's a decent article on the subject: https://scottwyden.com/photographing-a-hockey-game/

I would set it to full manual and adjust it as you see fit during play. Do some test shots at home to see how your photos look at a high ISO setting like 2000 and see what the highest ISO you can get away with is. When you're at the game, use manual white balance and set it off of a blank spot on the boards. Also shoot in RAW format so you have more room for editing. That being said, if you're trying to rapid fire a lot RAW won't be the best choice since it will probably start buffering after just a few shots.
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Old 12-18-2017, 11:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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WOW THIS is outstanding info! Thanks so much guys! I look forward to trying this!
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Old 12-18-2017, 01:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That article brought up a good point.

I guess if your shooting through glass or not will depend on if you can use auto focus. It's best to avoid shooting through glass and zoom in up in the stands. Unfortunately non pro rinks aren't going to have those little holes in the glass for cameras.

That followfocus auto focus mode is kind of a make it or break it for sports photography, so shooting through glass is really going to throw a wrench in your pictures.

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Old 12-18-2017, 01:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theangrydragon View Post
That article brought up a good point.

I guess if your shooting through glass or not will depend on if you can use auto focus. It's best to avoid shooting through glass and zoom in up in the stands. Unfortunately non pro rinks aren't going to have those little holes in the glass for cameras.

That followfocus auto focus mode is kind of a make it or break it for sports photography, so shooting through glass is really going to throw a wrench in your pictures.
In Quebec I can shoot from the stands, otherwise in Ontario (home) there is a mesh netting ALL AROUND the rink, due to the velocity at which pucks fly, and possible injury (death) to spectators. Sometimes I can go into the bench and get some shots. It all depends.

I will end up trying both I am sure. Thanks again so much.
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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also monopod or tripod will help. also you might want to get lens like my nikon 70-200mm. since canon version of 70-200mm will get you better action shots and low light help. but that might be out of your price range. since your using nikon version of 70-300mm
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Old 01-15-2018, 08:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I gave it a shot yesterday. Did NOT bring my tripod, failed to do this: "For single subjects Set focusing mode to AI servo AF."
Results were not good. A couple of salvageable photos. Realized my lens doesn't have image stabilization either.

May need to take a class and buy a lens...
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Old 01-15-2018, 11:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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What was your shutter speed on most shots? Check out the Metadata for shutter speed, ISO, and F stop. This might help you make adjustments. Most software will also show your focus point.

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Old 01-15-2018, 05:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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a rule of thumb on speed to focal length has always been shutter>focal length.
simply means if u are shooting at 200mm. ur shutter must be at least 1/250 or u will get shake.
hockey needs to be shot at a min of 800 for any type of action freeze. now if u wanna see the puck? ...um id say 1600 on the shutter.
i never shoot in modes...only manual...i color balance off the ice, because that is what is lighting faces ...its one big reflector.
monopods are useless cause in most arenas ur shooting though a cubby hole, a small cut out in the glass.
"IS" lenses ...i only have one its my 300 2.8
if u follow the focal to shutter rule youll be fine.
pump the iso to where u can still get an image and not digital confetti!
newer digis can get up to 1600 on the iso and still give an image.
i also want to bump the exposure 1/3 to get eyes in helmets and not shadowed dark faces.
ive shot from h.s. to pro with the basics above..albeit..madison square garden does give better light, the formula is the same.
this shot i took a while back of a Lundqvist waffle save was done at F3.5@1/1000 iso1250..




when shooting certain things...u can adjust accordingly....for keying on the net?
hes either gonna stop the puck or not. so..ur shot will be a stopped puck..in which case speed just need to freeze the puck as its stopped...before it hits the ice....or the reaction of the shooter/goalie of the outcome of the shot. in that case hell...1/250 will work!

shooting down ice @ oncoming players? yea...1/1600...at that speed u can stop ice spray!
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