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idkfa 01-20-2010 09:56 PM

How To: Spyder Feedneck on SC Phantom Body

Here goes.

I have been wanting to do this mod for a while now, but I found there was a distinct lack of documentation regarding it. What I have heard regarding this mod ranged from easy bolt on and go, to modifying the Phantom and feedneck.

I will say this first:

This is not a simple mod that can just be bolted on. While the feedneck may fit on, I highly doubt it will feed properly.

This will be explained later. Just be aware that you will have to cut on either the feedneck, the body, or both.

Materials Required

1 x 8-32 machine screw (head type and length your choice)
Rotary tool w/ cutting wheel and sanding drum
Permanent marker
blue loctite
Spyder feedneck w/ holes (I used one from CCM)
SC Phantom body

Time Required

~30 minutes, if you are clumsy like me

Step 1 - Select screw

This mod will require an 8-32 machine screw. I chose 3/4" length to cut down. Be aware of two things, the cap size and the actual diameter. Some screws I tried at the hardware store, while being 8-32, were just wide enough to not go through the feedneck hole. Keep in mind you will most likely have to force/screw it through the hole.

Step 2 - Measure screw

I found it easiest to starting screwing into the top of the Phantom body, and place the feedneck behind the screw to get an idea of how much height the feedneck hole tab adds.

Using a marker, colour the screw through the front of the body to get an idea of how much you will need to cut. You will probably need to trim off at least one more ridge than you measured, but you can do that later. I used a dremel with a NEW cutting wheel to keep things even and smooth. I also cleaned things up with some fine sandpaper.

Step 3 - Put screw through tab

This can be a pain. Depending on your screw cap size and actual OD, this can be a bit of a task, even though the CCM feedneck had sloped holes to make it easier. I marred the front of the feedneck a bit (see picture) by turning the screw driver, but I am sure someone could do it with more care.

NOTE: Depending on your cap size, you may have to remove a small amount of feedneck immediately adjacent to the hole to allow the screw to tighten flush to the tab (see picture, right behind screw). I basically only had to remove a small amount of anno, but it is something that people that are particular about marker cosmetics should keep in mind. I don't care, my marker has enough dings as it is, and it is mostly hidden by the screw head.

MAr-ing of feedneck and small amount of work needed behind screw

Step 4 - Modifying feed port

This is probably the most intrusive part of this mod. As the feedneck does not line up properly with the body, you need to trim the BACK of the feedneck (rather aggressively) and possibly the FRONT face of the body port. I have heard people mention the feedneck modification, but not the body work. I did not feel it fed well enough without a small amount of material being removed from the Phantom body itself. I used a sanding drum to do this. You can measure by eye, or try to mark the area that needs to be done. I personally only removed a bit from the Phantom body, so I did not mark it, and I could not find a marker to colour the feedneck from below while attached.

I may have done more than some, but I was not satisfied with either just bolting it on or sanding the feedneck only. I worked on this until I could pour a bag of paint through the feedneck without any paint getting jammed.

Step 5 - Securing feedneck

Before doing this, secure the screw without thread locker and make sure it does not poke down into the breech. I used some blue loctite, which was applied AFTER the screw was through the tab hole. I then screwed it down tightly and let it sit.


While I think this modification is a bit more intensive than I originally thought, it does seem to work well, and it looks damn good. It gives you a low profile and clean way to mount a hopper. If I was overly concerned with altering things, I may have gone for a PMP adapter, but I am pleased. Your mileage may vary, and you may have to do less or more trimming.

As a final test, I loaded up my Winchester with 50 paintballs and went outside. After auto-triggering the entire hopper without a single jam or skipped shot, I am happy.

I am fairly certain that I may have to modify this further if I ever come across abnormally large paint, but that size of paint would probably jam anyways.

idkfa 01-20-2010 09:58 PM

If this is well received, maybe this could be either stickied or placed in the DIY section under "Custom Projects".

battlechaser 01-21-2010 12:43 AM

Nice work! :D Though if it were me I might run a bead of locktite around the base to "glue" it down a bit for a little extra strength, but like you said in the other thread, if you're only using a 50 round hopper it shouldn't matter too much.

ComradeBenedict 01-21-2010 08:00 AM

Good job, looks cleaner than I expected.

capitalpaintball 01-27-2010 01:22 PM

I did this a few years ago. I didn't find any need to modify the inside of the feedneck, although it does not sit centered on the hole it does not block the feeding of a ball. I also decided to tap a second screw hole for the otherside. the material is thin and the screw can not protrude into the body because it will block the bolt. but its pretty solid.

splattttttt 01-27-2010 11:52 PM

Good work Matthew. That's hustlin :thumbup::thumbup:

anomoly40 01-30-2010 01:36 PM

Nice, I've got to do this now.

somebody 06-27-2010 08:10 PM

Cool, I am definately going try this out. Thanks for the informative post.

fatfaka808 06-27-2010 08:23 PM

i didnt shave my feedneck , i only shaved down the body . but when its done right , looks super clean . nice work bro .

Hybrid Moments 08-05-2010 05:13 PM

how sturdy is this? cuz i can totally see myself sliding into a bunker and snapping it off lol :gunsfiring:...(done it to a halo feed neck)one mounting point looks flimsy to me?:huh:

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