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eclecticdialect 01-23-2019 03:40 PM

ICD Puma Safety Removal
 
I have a Puma all disassembled except for the Safety Button. Not sure how it comes out and I don't want to risk damaging it by just hammering on it. Anyone know the trick?.. If there is a trick.

capitalpaintball 01-23-2019 08:46 PM

2 ways to do it. sometimes you can just tap it out. but it can drive the ball bearing into the aluminum of the gun.
Best thing to do is remove the spring and bearing. The hole is usually just bent over a little with a punch or screwdriver. just clear the hole with a tiny screwdriver and dump the spring and ball out. Should be able to re-peen the hole after.

eclecticdialect 01-24-2019 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capitalpaintball (Post 3552727)
2 ways to do it. sometimes you can just tap it out. but it can drive the ball bearing into the aluminum of the gun.
Best thing to do is remove the spring and bearing. The hole is usually just bent over a little with a punch or screwdriver. just clear the hole with a tiny screwdriver and dump the spring and ball out. Should be able to re-peen the hole after.

Thank you for the info!... However, my Puma didn't have the ball and spring on top of the button, so I figured that they must be underneath (which they were). I had no choice but to punch the button out which caused some partially repairable damage to the button, but the aluminum body remained undamaged.


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7819/...5037381fc2.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7854/...ea18c6423a.jpg

Spider! 01-28-2019 11:02 AM

Take the opportunity to polish or smooth that center hump if the safety is too hard to push.

I haven't had a Puma, but IIRC on the alley cats, you can stab a wire into the groove to help get the ball started under the end of the safety.

Are you going to ano?

eclecticdialect 01-28-2019 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spider! (Post 3553937)
Are you going to ano?

Eventually yes... First I wanna make sure that my idea for a Mag Fed setup is going to work.

Spider! 01-28-2019 05:53 PM

The reason I ask is that the trigger pin is straight and friction fit. It will be loose if you anodize that hole. You can mask off the hole, or loctite the pin after, or use a taper pin instead, or try to upset one end of the straight pin (I haven't tried that one). It's not terrible, just really annoying after all of that work.

eclecticdialect 01-28-2019 07:59 PM

Interesting... Why would the hole get bigger? Do they ream/lap it out prior to anodizing?... I’ll keep that in mind, Thank you.

capitalpaintball 01-28-2019 08:40 PM

1 Attachment(s)
The anno process removes material. I have a FX anno'd Puma with ugly punch marks around the pin to keep it from falling out.
Attachment 67273

eclecticdialect 01-28-2019 11:31 PM

I will DEFINATELY keep that in mind... Thank you both.

Spider! 01-29-2019 03:20 PM

I remembered why I didn't try to deform or upset the pin itself to make it fit tight; it is hardened, and I didn't want to soften and re-heat-treat it.

I think there is room to put some threads in the right side, so you could use a pin with a threaded head, ala automag RT rails (but larger). If you go short on the tap depth, it will seat itself. The left side has that long gas passage in it (alley cat), so I would try to stay away from that side unless you figure out exactly where it runs. That would be more secure than a taper pin or loctite. Finding the right pin might be a pain though.

***

That fit on the original pin is kind of impressive for a production blowback.


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