Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-13-2018, 10:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
MCB Member
CrowsFeast's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Toronto Ontario

Re-soldering while prtecting finish

Hi guys,

This isn't actually for a sheridan application but I figured you guys might have an idea anyway. We have a part at work that needs to be resoldered without affecting the surface treatment on the surrounding area. So far my only ideas are burn cloth (like you would use when doing home plumbing) or a soldering iron to only heat a specific area.

Let me know if you guys have any further ideas.
Originally Posted by JonnyDread View Post
The admins here are generally chaotic-good
CrowsFeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2018, 10:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
Skeet Surfer!
GanonsGrin's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: The South

Brass and Wood Fan
There is a heat sink gel that can be used to protect surrounding surfaces from being affected by flames. I can get the info on I think for you and get back with you on it. My brother is a sales rep for a company that sells it, but I can't recall the name right off.
May the way of the Hero lead to the Triforce.

Ganon's Feedback

Originally Posted by DashHopes View Post
Welcome back buddy! And GanonsGrin is your brother? He is the devil
GanonsGrin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2018, 11:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
Seasoned Member
NYKNIGHT01's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY

when I do micro solder work....I tape off the area with a few layers of aluminum tape...and use a hot air rework gun. also....I have used a micro torch..but that's for a larger area...
NYKNIGHT01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2018, 12:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
MCB Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NE Ohio(Parma)

Rectorseal heat paste will work but damage also depends on how delicate the finish is. I've used this in the past to keep from unsoldering an entire PGP when I only wanted the lower tube off.
JudgeMental1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2018, 01:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
MCB Member
XEMON's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Califonia

Brass and Wood Fan
Also keep in mind copper (and brass ...) will carry heat much better than other metals.
Petroleum coating (paint, lacker, varnish ...) Will likely burn near the joint.
Patina depend on which type, some torch/flame patina are fine, some other oxides just burn away ...

Picture and description on the base metal, solder, and finish would help ...
Love my SSR
Love my brass
... hard choice ...

My Feedback
XEMON is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply » Paintball » The Armory » Sheridan

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:13 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO
© MCB Network LLC