Sidearms Bring on the Pistols! From Splatmasters to modern day semi-auto pistols.

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Old 08-11-2011, 08:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Clinton,MA

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Fastech AFT 12 Gram Changer removal

Many people have asked how to remove the 12g changer from an AFT pistol when the develop a leak from there....A while back I discovered a website that explained it (which I cannot find anymore) when I had this exact problem with one of mine...Here's how you do it

You'll need the following
  1. Propane torch or high temp heat gun
  2. Rubber Mallet
  3. 2 ton (or similar) epoxy
  4. a razor knife
  5. and possibly an Autococker 3-way seal
Start by dismantling the gun....remove all internals,barrel,feed,etc..

Next take a torch and heat up the 12 gram changer until it starts to smoke a bit....The smoke means the epoxy that's holding the changer on has softened enough to allow you to lightly tap the changer with a rubber mallet and remove it. Be sure to only tap it with the mallet on the back of the changer (not the end where the cap goes)....It should just pop right off once it's been heated

Here's what it looks like once removed

Next step is to take a razor knife and clean off as much of the old epoxy as you can. Also while you have it like this check the tiny o-ring that sits on top of the 12g changer,most likely it'll need to be replaced...I've found this o-ring to be almost exactly the same as an Autococker 3-way o-ring.

Test fit the 12g changer to the should fit loose and should be very easy to move around.

I recommend reinstalling the gripframe to the gun at this time before proceeding to the next step

Next thing to do is mix up a small amount of epoxy...I use Locktite Instant Mix rated for 3200 psi both for it's PSI rating and the fact is sets up in about 5 minutes and dries in 20 minutes (Cures to full strength in 24 hours)
Apply epoxy to the 12g changer carefully.....DO NOT put too much on and be very careful when reinstalling the 12g changer not to move it around too much or you'll get epoxy in the hole where the o-ring sits which will be a royal pain to remove (just incase you do,you can use a very small allen wrench to poke through that hole and reopen it,but,act quickly as the epoxy will harden enough to cause difficultly within 2 minutes)...I recommend only applying epoxy to the inner sides,up toward the end cap area and the rear area only...don't put any anywhere near the o-ring area.Wipe off any excess asap.

Once the epoxy cures 24 hours later you should be good to go and ready to go out for a field test.
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