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Sidearms Bring on the Pistols! From Splatmasters to modern day semi-auto pistols.

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Old 07-23-2015, 07:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey Pistol, thanks for the help. It's all set now and shooting great. Actually getting around 40 useable shots per 12 gram. Thanks to everyone who lent their help
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Old 08-04-2015, 07:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So I wanted to post here instead of cluttering with a new thread for a simple, easy to answer question...

My Core Zx just started to leak at the valve area...I'm fairly certain that it is the face seal. Assuming it is the face seal, would I be able to replace it with a standard phantom face seal? That's what it appears to be, but I want to be certain
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Old 08-04-2015, 10:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The saga continues.....

I replaced the face seal with a phantom face seal no problem. I also replaced the orings on the valve itself. Reassembled and the leak was still there, maybe worse than before. I made sure to lube orings etc.

Then upon reassembling for a second time after I made sure all the seals were good I ran into a precarious problem...

I can no longer get the valve assembly to slide back into the marker. The cup seal and spring go in just fine, but once the valve goes in it gets stuck in place before it can be properly aligned all the way down. I have no idea why this is happening. I couldn't get it to budge any deeper to where it should be
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Old 08-05-2015, 12:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Is it stuck on the sear?

Maybe your valve orings are too large?
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Either the valve pin isn't dropping down through the hole of the valve body, or your spring is getting cocked, from what it sounds like anyway. I normally leave the valve spring stuck to the cupseal, drop it in and make sure it passes through the hole, THEN install the pierce block. All of this is done with the body pointing muzzle end up. It'll probably make things easier to remove the bolt, hammer, and drive spring so that you can be sure the hammer isn't interfering with the valve pin coming through the valve body.
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PistolRogue View Post
Either the valve pin isn't dropping down through the hole of the valve body, or your spring is getting cocked, from what it sounds like anyway. I normally leave the valve spring stuck to the cupseal, drop it in and make sure it passes through the hole, THEN install the pierce block. All of this is done with the body pointing muzzle end up. It'll probably make things easier to remove the bolt, hammer, and drive spring so that you can be sure the hammer isn't interfering with the valve pin coming through the valve body.
I was thinking of the hammer. Oops
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Old 08-08-2015, 05:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I got it back in and aired it up and got crazy leakage.

I think it has to be the cup seal.

I'm going to replace the cup seal and check again.

My only other thought is that it could be the face seal not sealing entirely because it's one of the hard plastic phantom seals that mike cuts himself.
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Old 08-09-2015, 06:25 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Replaced the cup seal, replaced the face seal, replaced the valve orings and still leaking like a sieve... #witsend
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Did you maybe forget the oring on the back of the pierce seal where it screws into the block?
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