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Old 04-12-2016, 02:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Delta 68 lever changer question...

Another thread got me thinking about the Delta 68's lever system and I thought I would ask a question / submit my "mod" or solution to a problem I experienced.

The problem: After expending a 12 gram in my delta 68 there is still some pressure in the marker. Opening the lever allows the 12 gram to release the remaining CO2, but while it is doing so it is very difficult to get out until it is fully empty (we of course want to switch as fast as possible so this is bad).

(As an aside, I'm concerned about the efficiency of my Delta 68 - I get around 15 shots off of each 12 gr - but that is a story for another time).

I ended up tying some paracord through the first and largest slanted cut in the sides of the 12 gram compartment. When it's time to replace the 12 gr, if it's being problematic, I can use thumb and forefinger to force it out by pulling down on the end knots of paracord. It is flat enough that the new 12 gr pushes it up and out of the way.

Anyone else done something similar?

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Old 04-12-2016, 02:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Honestly I didn't have a chrono and I was in the boonies shooting stuff so I'm not sure what my velocity was.

But I can tell you that (a) efficiency sucked and (b) it was shooting all over the place.

Part of that is because I was knowingly shooting dimpled, year old paint through it, that rolled right out the barrel on at least 1 occasion.

I need to get some decent paint, chrono, and retest.

I was thinking about getting a spyder spring kit for it; I figured replacing it couldn't hurt.

When you say 'the valve vents out the rest' you mean the remainder of the gas in the 12gr is released internally through the valve? Mine stays sealed until I release the lever then the 12 gr just dumps it all right onto the (cupseal?) where the 12 gram seals and is punctured. I figure that can't be good for the o ring there.
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Old 04-14-2016, 06:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I ended up having to modify my valve spring to make it super lightweight in order to get the thing up to speed. (by that i mean i created a super lightweight spring for it) A side effect of that is that as soon as there is not enough pressure to recock the hammer, the valve stays open and vents the remaining pressure.

I also use the Rap4 pierce block, so i don't have the o-ring issue.


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Old 04-15-2016, 02:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Reminds me that I need to get a new pierce block for my Delta 68. Just need to figure out what else i might need from there because I am not paying the 8 to 10 dollars postage just for this tiny part lol.
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Old 04-15-2016, 07:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan View Post
That looks like the pierce pin setup in mine... is that the Rap4?
Yes it is, the rap4 one has the flat o-ring/seal against the back with the pierce pin sticking through. No weird springy thing, with an o-ring that goes around the outside of the neck. The stock block was terribad.
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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So last night while playing with this I noticed that the valve face seal oring (o ring that faces the 12 gr per the manual) was torn. So I replaced it with an o ring of approximate same size and it gasses up without leaks. Then I replaced the hammer o ring which was in bad shape with a slightly oversized oring (od slightly too big due to being about 1/16 in thicker than the one I removed).

When I aired it up I cocks, fires, and doesn't leak, but doesn't recock. That got me to thinking back to when I first shot it. I was releasing the 12 gram because it didnt have enough pressure to recock my marker but had plenty to spew out: clearly the 12 gr wasn't empty. I think that all along it hasn't been recocking right.

I removed the slightly oversized hammer oring and replaced with the crappy stock one i had taken out and found the same behavior so I don't believe that additional resistance from the tight fit is causing it to not cycle.

I also slightly stretched the main spring while playing with it (one of those absent minded things you know?) So maybe that could be the problem.

The o ring I used to replace the valve face oring is thicker than the one that was there previously; could that affect the amount of air that enters the valve to push the hammer back?

I was thinking about buying this to see if changing the spring would help:

32 Degree Rebel Spyder Paintball Gun Velocity Adjusting Main Valve Spring Kit | eBay

Finally I'll be buying that rap 4 block you were talking about.

Any other suggestions? Get a genuine spyder hammer spring?
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by apamburn View Post

I removed the slightly oversized hammer oring and replaced with the crappy stock one i had taken out and found the same behavior so I don't believe that additional resistance from the tight fit is causing it to not cycle.
Your oversized is causing resistance, while the old one is allowing too much blow-by. IMO you need to find the right hammer oring, and you might see an improvement.
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Old 04-18-2016, 05:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Your oversized is causing resistance, while the old one is allowing too much blow-by. IMO you need to find the right hammer oring, and you might see an improvement.
Thanks. I'm going to order a proper Spyder o ring set soon.
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quick update: I have a Delta 68 o ring kit en route and in the mean time I was able to find some measurements for the hammer o ring.

A quick trip to the hardware store and I had a replacement.

The marker cycles now, but on average 5 times or so. After that it won't recock but if manually cocked it fires.

I'm going to replace all o rings once I have my kit and we'll see if that makes a difference.

Next step is to replace springs, I guess?
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