Dye box rotor
Probably not going to change anything on this but I definitely see a V2 coming in the not too distant future.
Think it's a little big myself.
Cut the capacity by 100 balls to 225 instead of the reported 325.
Even Dye pods only hold 200 balls so why the extra 125 extra balls rattling around before reload
I would agree but if you ever get a chance to really look at one I think the capacity is a side effect of other necessary design features. The ball ramp has to go to where the mag normally feeds and I think its about at the max angle it can be so it cant really be much shorter. Then the loading ports need to be a certain size so you can load it. I actually think the loading ports are a bit small but I'll have to play with it a couple times to say for sure. If you look at where everything else has to be biased on those features you get something about the size that you see now.
Another small problem that I have had with all of my rotors is the noise. The drive cones and gears spinning around in there dry sure do make a lot of racket. They also make a lot of friction and any energy used not to feed a ball is just a drain on the system.
So like my other rotors I put a lite coat of silicone grease on the gears and any surfaces that touch. this makes things much smoother and quieter. Also from my un scientific test of trying to hold it back while in operation it seams to have a touch more torque. I attribute this to the reduction in friction on the drive system.
I get what you're saying about the feed ports&feed ramp.
I know on my homemades the lower capacity one's without a ramp tend to popcorn balls when low on paint.Getting the proportions right for the guts&feed door and still making them usable were the greatest challenge
Glad to see it RF synced to the gun,a necessary part of my own box builds
Wonder if they'll come up with a speedfeed?
Does it have any kind of window to see the amount of balls left?Couldn't spy one in pics
Think this will be a pretty good upgrade for the DAM
Got to play with mine today. I think its going to need some tweaking if I set the board to 12 bps I start getting skipped shots much more than that and it will just quit feeding all together. here is the weird part though is the marker shoots a blank shot almost like once the rotor is synced the eyes get over ridden or something? Another thing I noticed is when the rotor is synced if you hold down the trigger the board will no do a clearing shot with the eyes on. As soon as you turn off the brotor it will do the clearing shot again.
I was just cleaning mine when it hit me maybe the tension is not high enough. Just like the rotor you can dial up the tension on the ball stack with a screw on the drive assembly. Mine was just short of flush so I screwed it in about a half turn past flush and tried again. Works perfectly. I will also say this it is very finicky on paint. Marbs feed good. field paint no so good (i forget what brand) I have some other kinds of paint to try so I'll have to give those a go to see what it likes.
I did some quick testing on paint feeding
marbs - good
spectrum - good
heat - bad
this was testing at 30 clicks or 14.28 bps
Another thing to note is you can not run out of paint in the hopper. If you do the balls will popcorn up into the chamber tricking the eyes to think there is a ball ready and it will chop it right in half.
Did you noticed a big difference in the diameter between the good feeding paint and bad?
Popcorning has been an issue with my homemade boxes also,though it doesn't chop it just jams occasionally
Have you tried running the box with the eyes off?Just curious what the outcome would be
Paint soup when the eyes are off.
I have to check the dia I know the marbs were pretty small but I have to check the others.
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