gnarlynick's POP 2026 Build

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  • gnarlynick
    Mech warrior
    • Sep 2025
    • 187
    • Northeast Ohio

    #1

    gnarlynick's POP 2026 Build

    Alright, starting this build log off since the primary marker(s) were delivered yesterday. I had originally ordered one eNMEy for the listed $25 and then added a second (missing a feedneck) for an additional $10. Below is a photo of the overall parts received. Note the two assembled eNMEy markers are mostly complete. They are each missing the two frame screws, some grip screws, and the VASA filter. Only one barrel came between the two. They both appear to be gen 2 eNMEys as the bolt systems all appear to be the upgraded versions as well as the solenoids. The "complete" marker with the black body has a solenoid with the red hose, assuming that's the HEV solenoid?

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20260325_232124.jpg Views:	2 Size:	1.14 MB ID:	815051

    I have gone through and disassembled both markers and gave all parts an extensive cleaning in scalding hot water with Dawn dish soap and a lot of scrubbing to clean off the old paint and grime they came covered in. The photo above is everything following the cleaning.

    There also appear to be two .50 cal parts; one found in the breach of the incomplete body and the other is what I assume to be a barrel adapter. I will not be using these as the bolts are all .68 Cal and I have no intention to play .50 cal. On the subject of parts I don't need, there were also included two rear assemblies for gen 1 bolts, three gen 1 bolt stops and a third gen 2 body and bolt that appears complete. I will see what can be done in the "missing connections" thread to unite those parts with other participants. I have more regulators than I need, as well.

    I still have to open all the regulators and confirm everything is included with those; seems to be a mix of gen 1 and gen 2 reg bodies. All o-rings will be replaced and greased with DOW33. I believe I can screw an HPA tank into the two "complete" markers as they are and see what holds air, but it's looking promising.

    As for my plans for this contest, I will be focusing on one of the two eNMEys:
    • I will be replacing the outer body, ball detents, grips and trigger with 3D printed parts; I am also considering printing the trigger frame, have not committed on that as of yet. If I do print the trigger frame, I would look into setting it up for a fang-style double-trigger
    • Planning on doing the outer body in TPU since it being rigid is not mission critical, the trigger will be PETG. On the subject of the outer body, I'll modify one of the body .stl models available to remove the feedneck and expose as much of the inner body as possible
    • I ordered a Sconi 2-hole Spyder feedneck ($21.99) that I will be drilling & tapping the inner body for (inspired by an earlier MCB thread by @itsgerryrigged).
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    Last edited by gnarlynick; 04-09-2026, 01:53 PM.
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  • gnarlynick
    Mech warrior
    • Sep 2025
    • 187
    • Northeast Ohio

    #2
    Reserved for parts and price tables.

    Current costs:
    Description Quantity Cost Subtotal Purchased from
    GOG eNMEy marker + parts 1 $25 MCB POP 2026
    GOG eNMEy marker (no feedneck) 1 $10 MCB POP 2026
    Sconi 2-hole Spyder feedneck 1 $21.99 Mastersconi
    3D printed body (TPU) 1
    3D printed wraparound grip (TPU) 1
    3D printed trigger (PETG) 1
    3D printed ball detents (TPU) 1
    Freak back (Ion threaded) 1 $15 eBay
    Stubby Freak front 1 $32.95 Doc’s machine shop
    Grip frame screws (SSB003) 2 $1.30 $2.60 Punishers Paintball
    Vertical regulator filter 1 $2.00 Punishers Paintball
    Straight 1/8 NPT to macroline fitting 2 $4.95 $9.90 ANSgear
    1’ Macroline 1 $1.95 ANSgear
    DLX vertical reg piston seat (VRG106) 1 $1.00 ANSgear
    10.5mm x 2mm Buna 70 duro O-ring 1 $0.05 The O-Ring Store
    3mm x 1mm Buna 70 duro O-ring 3 $0.05 $0.15 The O-Ring Store
    17mm x 1mm Buna 70 duro O-ring 1 $0.05 The O-Ring Store
    J-B Weld SteelStik 1 $7.98 Lowe's
    Total: $95.62*
    *Total cost does not include initial cost of marker(s)
    Last edited by gnarlynick; 04-09-2026, 01:57 PM.
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    • OpusX
      Still pumpin'
      • Jul 2020
      • 1448
      • KCMO

      #3
      Thats a clean pile of poo
      Velcor will save us...

      Current MCB Feedback : https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...opusx-feedback
      Legacy MCB Feedback (Wayback Machine)

      Comment


      • gnarlynick
        gnarlynick commented
        Editing a comment
        lol didn't come that way. It was better than some old rental 98s I've received in the past. Some of those looked like they were buried and rediscovered by archaeologists.
    • RPP
      You even shooty ball Bro?
      • Dec 2023
      • 399

      #4
      Yes, red hose is the HE Valve.

      Comment

      • gnarlynick
        Mech warrior
        • Sep 2025
        • 187
        • Northeast Ohio

        #5
        Just screwed in my 13/3k tank and the black eNMEy gasses up and I can hear a slight leak in either the solenoid or the bolt, but it cycles. Green one dumps air right where the braided line connects to the reg. I reassembled the black one with the parts that looked the best and the HEV solenoid, so this isn't surprising. I'm sure a simple o-ring replacement for both will get everything in a operational state.

        Firing off some prints later today for the grips and triggers. Going to work on modifying a body 3D model to what I'm going for while those print.
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        • Magmoormaster
          Only here for the zipline
          • Jul 2020
          • 1294
          • Glendale, AZ

          #6
          There seems to be a lot of confusion (here and literally everywhere else) about the trigger valves. I've spent the last couple hours trying to find definitive answers, here's what I found.

          -First off, hose color does not matter. I've seen red and black hoses on each version. I've even seen a couple with blue hoses.
          -Gen 1 has a stubby rocket, and the valve housing is all plastic. The rear hose and fitting is unified into the valve housing.
          -Gen 2 has a longer rocket, and the valve housing has a metal plate on the bottom. These were available on gen1 and gen2 guns. According to the gen 1 parts manual (linked below), the gen2 valves in gen1 guns still had the unified rear fitting. I can't confirm it form pictures, I'll have to check when I get home, but I swear the gen2 guns do not have a unified valve.
          -HE valves have a QEV and a much more narrow trigger rocket. The gen2 guns DO NOT come with HE kits standard. Some places say gen2's have a plastic QEV. Mine certainly doesn't, and I've seen no evidence of this anywhere.

          I cannot find an actual photo of the gen1 rocket, which is really annoying. Also can't find a video of someone disassembling a gen2.

          Link to the manual showing two different valves:
          https://www.dlxeurope.com/media/5b/5...?ts=1755358460

          Link to gen2 manual (which doesn't show the rocket):
          https://www.dlxeurope.com/media/1a/7...?ts=1755358460

          Link to ANS's listing for the HE valve. Notice the QEV and different rocket:
          https://ansgear.com/gog-enmey-pro-he...system-nme057/

          Comment


          • gnarlynick
            gnarlynick commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks for the clarification. I haven't worked with these markers before and am learning as I go here. The few threads I was able to find both here and on pbnation were a bit confusing. It looks like both of mine are the gen 2 valves and rockets.

          • Magmoormaster
            Magmoormaster commented
            Editing a comment
            Ok, looks like I was wrong about the gen2's having a separate rear banjo. It is in fact still unified into the valve body.
        • Calvin
          Old n' Quick
          • Sep 2025
          • 416
          • Home of the National Champion IU Hoosiers!!!

          #7
          Is there anything in specific to know about this valve assembly in terms of do's and don'ts in cleaning/servicing? I assume that the valve itself is best left alone, but all this stuff is absolutely crusted with dried paint. Can they be soaked and dried? Do you put some pneumatics oil in them to refresh seals? I have never worked with this kind of high tech before. I'm a child of the blowback era. Mags are magical to me.

          Comment

          • Magmoormaster
            Only here for the zipline
            • Jul 2020
            • 1294
            • Glendale, AZ

            #8
            I'll be honest, I have no idea. I've worked on enmey's, and I've installed a fair number of HE kits. But I've never cracked open the actual valve before.

            Yours are certainly a bit grody, I was admiring that earlier today haha. A lot of that should brush off, especially with some rubbing alcohol. I'd probably avoid soaking the valve, I feel like it would be hard to get fully dried. You cooooould try submerging it while gassed up, that will keep water out of it. But I probably wouldn't soak it. Very possible it would be fine, but IDK.

            Oil would probably be a good idea though. Definitely wouldn't be detrimental, at the very least.

            Comment


            • Calvin
              Calvin commented
              Editing a comment
              Sounds good. I will toothbrush scrub it with alcohol and then add a drop of synthetic pneumatic oil into the intake before I air it up.

            • gnarlynick
              gnarlynick commented
              Editing a comment
              I soaked both of mine so we'll see how that fairs
          • gnarlynick
            Mech warrior
            • Sep 2025
            • 187
            • Northeast Ohio

            #9
            In the spirit of this being a pile of poo, I'm curious how well (or not) this will shoot with just the .50 cal barrel adapter screwed on.
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            • gnarlynick
              gnarlynick commented
              Editing a comment
              Disregard the shitty grips, I'm seeing what I like best. Trying this style with top layer ironing next, but I'm not liking how thin it is. Likely will go with a wrap around assuming I can print it decently.

            • tyronejk
              tyronejk commented
              Editing a comment
              What's the ID of the 50 cal adapter? I hope it's 0.50 and you're shooting 68 cal paint through it.

            • gnarlynick
              gnarlynick commented
              Editing a comment
              It's .50, won't work for .68 obviously. Will make for a great paint chopper
          • Calvin
            Old n' Quick
            • Sep 2025
            • 416
            • Home of the National Champion IU Hoosiers!!!

            #10
            Cleaning with alcohol and toothbrush, papertowel, pipe cleaner, Q-tip works reasonably well. There was the same dried paint on the insides of the banjo bolts, so it's reasonable to assume that it is coating the insides of the valve as well. If it gives any trouble I'm going to soak it as well and then run oil through it. For now I am hopeful that it will work.
            Click image for larger version  Name:	20260326_201035.jpg Views:	21 Size:	1.87 MB ID:	815395
            Last edited by Calvin; 03-27-2026, 06:12 AM.

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            • gnarlynick
              gnarlynick commented
              Editing a comment
              Dear God those were caked in paint.
          • gnarlynick
            Mech warrior
            • Sep 2025
            • 187
            • Northeast Ohio

            #11
            I increased the infill percentage from 18% to 50% and enabled top layer ironing. They're a lot more sturdy and look better. Still looking into a wrap around option
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            • gnarlynick
              gnarlynick commented
              Editing a comment
              This is Overture TPU with a shore hardness of 95A. According to Orca slicer, this print cost $0.31

            • tyronejk
              tyronejk commented
              Editing a comment
              Someone on Facebook printed wraparound grips and said he printed them in one piece standing up.

            • gnarlynick
              gnarlynick commented
              Editing a comment
              Ya, it printed upright. Wasn't sure how well bed adhesion would go considering the small amount of surface area actually in contact with the print bed. Didn't want to use brims, it printed fine regardless.
          • gnarlynick
            Mech warrior
            • Sep 2025
            • 187
            • Northeast Ohio

            #12
            Wrap around grips finished this morning. They're not quite an exact fit but they do look and feel good. I will probably look into modifying this model a bit more for final fitment or I'll just move along with it as-is, not sure yet.
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            • RPP
              You even shooty ball Bro?
              • Dec 2023
              • 399

              #13
              Originally posted by gnarlynick
              In the spirit of this being a pile of poo, I'm curious how well (or not) this will shoot with just the .50 cal barrel adapter screwed on.
              Click image for larger version

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              Ohh is that what that barrel thing was? I thought it was a sizer or a back piece to a "glue on" type barrel. I did not look too much into it. 50 cal kits ive seen for the enmey have a breach insert and a regular 50 cal barrel.

              Comment


              • gnarlynick
                gnarlynick commented
                Editing a comment
                I believe it to be a .50 cal barrel adapter. The ID nearest the breach is too small to fit a .68 Cal round and it is Ion threaded. There are additional threads inside where I assume a smaller-bore barrel will attach. I also found a .50 cal breach insert in one of the cans. All the bolts appear to be .68 cal so it was kinda random
            • gnarlynick
              Mech warrior
              • Sep 2025
              • 187
              • Northeast Ohio

              #14
              Well, that was fun. Took all 4 regs apart and cleaned them. Found out why the green marker dumped air out the reg; the velocity adjuster was entirely missing from that one. None of them looked particularly good inside, mostly rust, old grease, and whatever else was able to get into there over time. Probably as good as I can get them after scrubbing with a toothbrush and a pipe cleaner.
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              • Magmoormaster
                Only here for the zipline
                • Jul 2020
                • 1294
                • Glendale, AZ

                #15
                Yeah most of mine were pretty rusty inside too.

                I need to figure out a way to eliminate the stupid pressure relief valve, that way I can use the extras on other guns. I'm hoping it's as easy as removing the relief valve and plugging the vent hole. As a heads up to you and everyone else, in case you didn't already know the adjusters on these regs are reverse threaded. Turning them in raises pressure instead of lowering it like most other regs.

                Comment


                • tyronejk
                  tyronejk commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I destroyed 3/4 c-clips on the regs I got. With these regs, I usually just run without them.

                  Yes, I think you just need to plug the vent hole if you want to remove the pressure relief valve. I don't know the best way to do that myself.

                • gnarlynick
                  gnarlynick commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Those c-clips are just there to prevent the velocity adjuster from being screwed all the way out, correct? I'll probably just run it without those, they don't seem particularly necessary as long as I'm not absent-mindedly increasing the velocity while the marker is gassed up. Either way, I'm sure that's a mistake you only make once.

                • tyronejk
                  tyronejk commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Yup, I'm 99% sure they're just to prevent losing the adjuster.
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