Evil Pimp Ho-Down!

[Cdn_Cuda]

Gather your finest hats, fur coats and heels, gentlemen, it’s time for an Evil Pimp Ho-Down!

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(I’ve actually watch part of this movie!)

So we start with our Pimp:

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[Cdn_Cuda]

First, we drop those grips like a pair of…. Uh, grips. Then bye-bye reg and ASA.

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We’ve likely noticed this Pimp was sporting a DO RAPs ASA instead of the stuck unit. I’ll like swap back to the stock unit as the DP can be different to disengage.

Next we can remove the twist-lock bolt. This is nifty because when you twist the back of the bolt, the bolt pin retracts allowing for easy removal.

Bolt pin up:
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Bolt pin down:
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[Cdn_Cuda]

Now let’s crack open that grip frame and check out all the technical bit!

There’s four small screws to remove the grip clamshell:

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Then you can see the board:

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And with the board removed the solenoid: notice the roughly 19 kilometres of wire used on these older markers.

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[Cdn_Cuda]

And here we can get a better look of the brains of the operation, the circuit board. Note the date on the board, September 9, 2003. Going back to paintball’s glory days!

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[Macdave06]

This reminds me. I need to get my pimp back pimpin.

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[Cdn_Cuda]

Alrighty then, let’s continue!

Let’s look at the eye first. This Pimp is a straight up Killa! Or at least its detents are. Magnetic detents that seem fancy. Are the better that stock?! I have no idea, but the look good.

(Need to take photo of detents…)

And here is the pimp with the eye covers and detents removed.

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[Cdn_Cuda]

Next we’ll move on to the LPR:
The LPR came off nice and easy.

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And behind the LPR is the spring and valve.
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And here is what the body looks like with the LPR removed
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[Cdn_Cuda]

Now let’s flip this bad boy over and work on the lower tube and ram.


The ram cap (end cap?) comes off easy:
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But that leaves the next piece, with is a bit of a pain. It’s quite thin and not a lot of space for a tool. Also it’s tight to the body, so easy to scrape it.

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This part holds the ram pieces though, so it must come out!
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[Riot]

I shot a pimp Jordan built for years. It was awesome.

[Cdn_Cuda]

To remove that piece I used my mini vice which allowed me to rest the bod above the jaws and clamp the black piece (padded with paper towel) and managed to spin the body.

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And here is the lower tube removed:
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And a shot of the body with the lower tube removed:
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[Cdn_Cuda]

So that covers the teardown of the Pimp!

In reading, these are supposed to be a combination of an Impulse and a Timmy. I have no experience with an Impulse, but am elbow deep in a System X NME rebuild (Timmy clone) so I can see the similarities in the hoses. But the Pimp is way nicer to work on.

Feel free to add and discussion, info tips etc!

[Trbo323]

Wait isn't the valve body still in the lower tube? Or is there no valve body? Everything milled into the main body? Seems unlikely



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[Cdn_Cuda]

You mean I need to take it all apart again!? It’s likely held in by the front block. Given I have never seen most of the markers I take apart I can easily miss things. It’s also why I have no idea what the proper names of parts are.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Looks into take the valve out , but it means pulling hoses. Give the age, and the fact that it was I working working before I took it apart, I’m going to leave the valve in place for now.

Here it is in place:
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And here is the barb and valve retainer:

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[Jordan]

The valve retainer is also a banjo bolt - it transfers the LPR's output from an internal passageway in the body to the barb threaded into it.

IIRC one of the seals is a proprietary gasket so I'd recommend leaving it alone if possible.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Will do. Just got it all back together and holds air. So happy about that!

[Trbo323]

Man, if that hose is going to break, or if the valve o rings are on their last legs, better to know now instead of in the middle of a game.

Also, that's a really weird way to run the LPR feed line.

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[Tinman74]

Thanks for doing this. Love the disassembly videos