Figured this might be useful to someone here or a random Google search someday
So. You have a spyder or other stacked tube blowback, or most clapper noid boards really and you suspect the capacitor is bad.
You can hear the noid trying to fire but it just doesn't seem to have enough strength. Maybe it will fire once in a while but not all the time.
Here is the board I'm working with today. It's a spyder led board but this tutorial will apply to a lot of others not just this specific one
First let's look at the capacitor. If you already suspect it one of the easiest ways to tell the capacitor is the problem is to look at the end cap. Typically, but not always, they will bow out if the capacitor has gone bad. This one is slightly bowed, it might be a little hard to see in photos but it's there
It's typically really easy to tell if you have another new one to compare like this
Here's the specs on these capacitors.
6800uF
16v
Find that capacitor in the smallest dimensions you can and you will be set for a spyder clapper. The specs are always on the side of the capacitor so double check
Ok, you ordered new capacitors and they arrived (order shrink wrap as well). Before anything else there's one really important thing to do, you need to check the polarity of the current capacitor for how it's soldered onto the board. Capacitors always have a - (negative) sign typically running down one side. The post that's on that side is the negative post so here's the old one that's still on the board
You can see the negative strip pretty easily. On most spyder boards the post that is closest to the mounting screw hole or the upper right side of the board is the negative post.
First things first, find some way to hold your board that doesn't involve your hands. I have a 3rd hand for this but as long as it doesn't move and you can access both sides you are good.
Use your soldering iron on the back side and be patient, wiggle the bad capacitor while you heat and you'll feel it loosen up. Often times I heat one contact and pull that side out a little then heat the other and pull that side out a bit. I work it back and forth moving each post just a little further out each time I heat the solder on that side until I have the old capacitor out
Next get the new capacitor and some shrink wrap, typically capacitors don't have anything covering the posts so you'll want to put since shrink wrap on them with about an eighth of an inch left open to solder. This is so nothing shorts out while it's in the frame.
Typically, I don't add any new solder. Again I heat from the back side and basically do the opposite of taking it out. Heat one side and insert the post just a bit then the other. Getting it started so both posts align with both holes is the hard part but once you get each of them started it goes pretty well. Just make sure you don't cross the solder over to touch the other contact point. Bad news if you do.
Get the posts to the point that they stick out the back of the board just a bit and you are set. Bend the capacitor over a bit (twisting it in the process helps as well) and the board is ready to go back in.
Good luck
Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk
So. You have a spyder or other stacked tube blowback, or most clapper noid boards really and you suspect the capacitor is bad.
You can hear the noid trying to fire but it just doesn't seem to have enough strength. Maybe it will fire once in a while but not all the time.
Here is the board I'm working with today. It's a spyder led board but this tutorial will apply to a lot of others not just this specific one
First let's look at the capacitor. If you already suspect it one of the easiest ways to tell the capacitor is the problem is to look at the end cap. Typically, but not always, they will bow out if the capacitor has gone bad. This one is slightly bowed, it might be a little hard to see in photos but it's there
It's typically really easy to tell if you have another new one to compare like this
Here's the specs on these capacitors.
6800uF
16v
Find that capacitor in the smallest dimensions you can and you will be set for a spyder clapper. The specs are always on the side of the capacitor so double check
Ok, you ordered new capacitors and they arrived (order shrink wrap as well). Before anything else there's one really important thing to do, you need to check the polarity of the current capacitor for how it's soldered onto the board. Capacitors always have a - (negative) sign typically running down one side. The post that's on that side is the negative post so here's the old one that's still on the board
You can see the negative strip pretty easily. On most spyder boards the post that is closest to the mounting screw hole or the upper right side of the board is the negative post.
First things first, find some way to hold your board that doesn't involve your hands. I have a 3rd hand for this but as long as it doesn't move and you can access both sides you are good.
Use your soldering iron on the back side and be patient, wiggle the bad capacitor while you heat and you'll feel it loosen up. Often times I heat one contact and pull that side out a little then heat the other and pull that side out a bit. I work it back and forth moving each post just a little further out each time I heat the solder on that side until I have the old capacitor out
Next get the new capacitor and some shrink wrap, typically capacitors don't have anything covering the posts so you'll want to put since shrink wrap on them with about an eighth of an inch left open to solder. This is so nothing shorts out while it's in the frame.
Typically, I don't add any new solder. Again I heat from the back side and basically do the opposite of taking it out. Heat one side and insert the post just a bit then the other. Getting it started so both posts align with both holes is the hard part but once you get each of them started it goes pretty well. Just make sure you don't cross the solder over to touch the other contact point. Bad news if you do.
Get the posts to the point that they stick out the back of the board just a bit and you are set. Bend the capacitor over a bit (twisting it in the process helps as well) and the board is ready to go back in.
Good luck
Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk
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