Project: Vertical Adapter, Rocking Trigger, Regulator, and On/Off Suck (VARTROS)
Won: I was intrigued by the balance valve, and I had never tinkered with one before.
Bee: For those unaware, these have a bastard vertical adapter that can't accept standard regulators. They also have a combo on/off and regulator that is...fussy.
See: I rebuilt things as necessary but could not get any regulator seat to work in the stock reg/ASA combo. I tried all kinds of stuff.
For: The on/off portion worked after rebuild - most of the time. It's sensitive to how much it's screwed in for the on and off positions; threading it in or out too much causes leaks.
PHIVE (Google it; I had to.): The electronic rocking trigger frame would not work with a fresh Energizer alkaline 9V battery. The only thing I had on hand was an 11.1V airsoft battery that I rigged up to the e-frame. The solenoid, eyes, and both shooting modes all work. However, there are very few electros I like, so I wanted a mech frame instead.
SYX (an actual paintball marker): The stock on/off/reg is a dovetail mount. The mech frame I had on hand has offset mounting holes.
Lucky: I had a parts bin mech frame milled down to fit the flat bottom VS3 body. Most Spyder bodies are round bottom, and the trigger frames match the round contour. Without milling it down, the sear wouldn't engage the hammer.
Ate: I had to Dremel the VS3 body a bit to make room for the sear pin. There's still the inner raised oval portion of the mechanical trigger that fully encapsulates the sear pin.
Nein: I replaced the blown gage. Not significant; I just wanted to use "nein". "Eye" was tempting too, but they're removed since I'm not using the electronic frame. I guess "Nein eyes" is appropriate.
...
Ex: I used a parts bin regulator after having to rebuild it. Someone had put the input fitting into the gage output. The seals were crusty. Some improvised oring-ing was utilized to get it working. It still has a tiny leak out the bottom, but it holds pressure and recharges sufficiently.
Why: The rest of the bottom line is an "abomination" (as a friend called it) with parts on hand used to make it work - Spyder male to standard male air fitting in the foregrip, Spyder offset hole ASA with standard fitting output (not Spyder?), standard air fittings as shown for the rest. I only had short pieces of macro line on hand.
Z. I used a cut down Specialized rubber bike handle grip over the foregrip. It didn't have the stock foregrip cover.
It's shooting 280fps at 240psi (reg output verified with a nice gage, not just the one on the marker) with a standard length hammer spring (as opposed to the short stock hammer spring) and is quite consistent over the chrono with nylon riot balls. It was recocking sub-200psi with the short stock hammer spring, but it was only shooting 190fps at that pressure. It took close to 300psi to achieve 275fps with the short stock hammer spring and the RVA almost all the way in, so I thought I might as well try a standard length hammer spring. With the standard length hammer spring, it started recocking reliably without shooting a ball at about 220psi.
Won: I was intrigued by the balance valve, and I had never tinkered with one before.
Bee: For those unaware, these have a bastard vertical adapter that can't accept standard regulators. They also have a combo on/off and regulator that is...fussy.
See: I rebuilt things as necessary but could not get any regulator seat to work in the stock reg/ASA combo. I tried all kinds of stuff.
For: The on/off portion worked after rebuild - most of the time. It's sensitive to how much it's screwed in for the on and off positions; threading it in or out too much causes leaks.
PHIVE (Google it; I had to.): The electronic rocking trigger frame would not work with a fresh Energizer alkaline 9V battery. The only thing I had on hand was an 11.1V airsoft battery that I rigged up to the e-frame. The solenoid, eyes, and both shooting modes all work. However, there are very few electros I like, so I wanted a mech frame instead.
SYX (an actual paintball marker): The stock on/off/reg is a dovetail mount. The mech frame I had on hand has offset mounting holes.
Lucky: I had a parts bin mech frame milled down to fit the flat bottom VS3 body. Most Spyder bodies are round bottom, and the trigger frames match the round contour. Without milling it down, the sear wouldn't engage the hammer.
Ate: I had to Dremel the VS3 body a bit to make room for the sear pin. There's still the inner raised oval portion of the mechanical trigger that fully encapsulates the sear pin.
Nein: I replaced the blown gage. Not significant; I just wanted to use "nein". "Eye" was tempting too, but they're removed since I'm not using the electronic frame. I guess "Nein eyes" is appropriate.
...
Ex: I used a parts bin regulator after having to rebuild it. Someone had put the input fitting into the gage output. The seals were crusty. Some improvised oring-ing was utilized to get it working. It still has a tiny leak out the bottom, but it holds pressure and recharges sufficiently.
Why: The rest of the bottom line is an "abomination" (as a friend called it) with parts on hand used to make it work - Spyder male to standard male air fitting in the foregrip, Spyder offset hole ASA with standard fitting output (not Spyder?), standard air fittings as shown for the rest. I only had short pieces of macro line on hand.
Z. I used a cut down Specialized rubber bike handle grip over the foregrip. It didn't have the stock foregrip cover.
It's shooting 280fps at 240psi (reg output verified with a nice gage, not just the one on the marker) with a standard length hammer spring (as opposed to the short stock hammer spring) and is quite consistent over the chrono with nylon riot balls. It was recocking sub-200psi with the short stock hammer spring, but it was only shooting 190fps at that pressure. It took close to 300psi to achieve 275fps with the short stock hammer spring and the RVA almost all the way in, so I thought I might as well try a standard length hammer spring. With the standard length hammer spring, it started recocking reliably without shooting a ball at about 220psi.
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