On the chopping block I have a first generation Mokal Fokus. A Canadian made STBB similar to the Inferno. The machining is rough in spots but they shoot nice. These were popular rentals up here. The large valve chamber makes them run great on HPA. It cycles fine but is unchrono'd. Pretty clean, peculiarities are detailed below. Everything pictured is included (only one mainspring). The bottomline can be connected to the grip prior to shipping if requested.
Looking for $55 CAD plus shipping (from Canada) OBO. Any questions please ask.
It has a large volume valve chamber and volumizer that would be great for a low pressure build (especially with a bottomline reg). Also extends reach for those of you who are into that. The bottom tube is 11/16 but not all Spyder valves may work due to the bottom valve retention set screw doubling as a threaded insert for the front frame screw. The stock hammer takes a U cup seal but it can be replaced with a 111 oring or the whole hammer can be replaced with a slim Spyder striker (this may change bolt travel distance. The front block can be swapped with regular Spyder/Piranha front blocks. Barrel is Spyder threaded and it takes an Autococker detent. The feedneck fits my Revvy and VL200s kind of loosely with orings but fits my GoG Multical hopper like a glove without the orings. It's pressed in and fastened with screws on either side of the body (I was unable to remove it). It might be able to be threaded for a clamping feedneck. The frame is kind of reminiscent of a Dye double hinge cocker frame (the hole spacing is even correct). Unfortunately this is a round bottom. The trigger is chrome plated and has no side to side play.
Peculiarities of this particular marker:
- detent gets stuck in sometimes. You'll probably want to replace it.
- the body was boiled to break some loctite and the anno lost some glossiness (it's between gloss and matte).
- blowback vent plugged with a #10-24 setscrew which also acts as a trigger pretravel adjustment.
- front block air passages drilled out.
- stock hammer has some rust, pitting and peeling chrome. It currently has a Spyder clone hammer installed, which moves the bolt resting point back slightly. Not a major issue but it could be corrected with an oring superglued to the bolt face or with a soft tip for bolts with 015 orings.
- velocity adjuster lock crushes a small piece of rubber between the knob threads and locking setscrew.
Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
Looking for $55 CAD plus shipping (from Canada) OBO. Any questions please ask.
It has a large volume valve chamber and volumizer that would be great for a low pressure build (especially with a bottomline reg). Also extends reach for those of you who are into that. The bottom tube is 11/16 but not all Spyder valves may work due to the bottom valve retention set screw doubling as a threaded insert for the front frame screw. The stock hammer takes a U cup seal but it can be replaced with a 111 oring or the whole hammer can be replaced with a slim Spyder striker (this may change bolt travel distance. The front block can be swapped with regular Spyder/Piranha front blocks. Barrel is Spyder threaded and it takes an Autococker detent. The feedneck fits my Revvy and VL200s kind of loosely with orings but fits my GoG Multical hopper like a glove without the orings. It's pressed in and fastened with screws on either side of the body (I was unable to remove it). It might be able to be threaded for a clamping feedneck. The frame is kind of reminiscent of a Dye double hinge cocker frame (the hole spacing is even correct). Unfortunately this is a round bottom. The trigger is chrome plated and has no side to side play.
Peculiarities of this particular marker:
- detent gets stuck in sometimes. You'll probably want to replace it.
- the body was boiled to break some loctite and the anno lost some glossiness (it's between gloss and matte).
- blowback vent plugged with a #10-24 setscrew which also acts as a trigger pretravel adjustment.
- front block air passages drilled out.
- stock hammer has some rust, pitting and peeling chrome. It currently has a Spyder clone hammer installed, which moves the bolt resting point back slightly. Not a major issue but it could be corrected with an oring superglued to the bolt face or with a soft tip for bolts with 015 orings.
- velocity adjuster lock crushes a small piece of rubber between the knob threads and locking setscrew.
Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
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