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My Spump Adventure

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    My Spump Adventure

    Some time back I purchased an old Spyder TL from 440COMMANDO. I originally bought it for the BM regulator, but was intrigued by his goal of a low pressure Spyder. I couldn’t let his ambitions go to waste, so to bypass cycling problems I decided to pump it. Click image for larger version

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    Above is the sales pic and the way it came to me. Now to the cutting and stuff.
    Click image for larger version

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    Above is the disaster in infancy and a trade pitch picture for a gent who was selling a Karnivor. He refused, his loss... Begin list!

    1) Trilogy pump kit found on eBay
    2) Delrin to make sled and pump arm riser
    3) Valve stem or just use JB Weld.
    4) Cutting wheels for rotary tool
    5) Bolt and bits
    6) Files, saws, vice, and other tools to make life easier.
    7) Whatever else I missed.


    Click image for larger version

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    Above is some raw material I ordered to make a sled and riser. You can see the finished riser and roughed out sled. I used a crappy Forstner bit sized 45/64” to cut the hole for the bolt. Purchased off Amazon, that size was the closest to the bolt diameter. If you use this method, the bit will need to be sharpened.

    Whoopsies!
    Click image for larger version

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    One of those cases where I measured once and cut twice. The bolt rested too far forward, potentially causing a gas transfer problem. I cut an o-ring and glued into place for now. I may make a new sled later to fix this mess. So don’t make my mistake, learn from this moment, people will laugh at you...

    HAMMER TIME!
    Click image for larger version

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    Arguably the “worst” part, if you don’t anneal the hammer first. You can do this with a MAP gas torch and fire brick, I treated this thing in my fireplace since the weather was cold and my wood stove was fired up and toasty. Placed the hammer in a bed of coals, increased airflow and waited till orange hot. Pulled from the heat and let slowly cool then repeated another time until a file would cut through the surface. Once cold and soft, I filed a flat then drilled 1/4” holes to reduce cutting time. After drilling, I used my rotary tool with reinforced cutoff wheels to cut the groove. I finished with small stones and a file to break any sharp edges. Test for fit and travel, valve stem compresses far enough, toss hammer back into inferno till orange hot and quench in room temp water or oil (water worked best for me). Once the scale is removed, a file should skate over the surface, if not, then repeat. This method will save you time, grief and money in worn out cutters and stones. If you have a local machinist, anneal the hammer before sending out. Some guys won’t cut hardened steel or will charge extra.
    FEEDBACK Orracles (coming soon)

    #2
    This is great! I love seeing Spump builds. How close are you to a full reveal?
    Fred aka ChoSanJuan
    Team: With Intent
    I drop ship harder to find Kingman parts and 3D Printed items!
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    • Knuckle Dragger

      Knuckle Dragger

      commented
      Editing a comment
      This is a nice feature. I just posted in a reply below.

    #3
    PT.2 exceeded attachment upload limit per post.

    Click image for larger version

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    Above is where I left off from the old thread and below is it’s current form. Cerakote, new bolt, trimmed sled, used an autococker bolt pin secured with a grub screw until I make a detent.

    Click image for larger version

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    I’ll need to address the valve stem, and test this thing out. Goal was to make a smooth, minimalist spump that will function well. The most expensive stuff is the Delrin, but you have options like using a sled from a Resurrection. I believe those sleds are 10-32 threaded, I know they are cheap, you’ll just need to cut deeper into the bottom tube and level it with a file as best you can.

    Well, here’s to someday finishing up this project. If I don’t like it, I’ll either sell it or make it a semi again.
    FEEDBACK Orracles (coming soon)

    Comment


      #4
      Looks great! Have your thrown any paint or chrony'd it yet?
      Fred aka ChoSanJuan
      Team: With Intent
      I drop ship harder to find Kingman parts and 3D Printed items!
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      • Knuckle Dragger

        Knuckle Dragger

        commented
        Editing a comment
        No, and I haven’t even tried to make a valve stem either. I’m in the process of looking for anodizers for my Orracles, so this gal is taking a back seat for a bit. Im also on the hunt for a decent bench top metal lathe so I can make a valve stem along with other things.

      #5
      A Trilogy valve makes a great drop in replacement if you don't want to mess with the stock Spyder valve. Bonus is they come in both low and high pressure versions.

      Comment


      • Knuckle Dragger

        Knuckle Dragger

        commented
        Editing a comment
        There’s a low pressure valve already in it. I think 440SUPERCOMMANDO made it, you’ll see it in the 2nd photo of the first post. If it gives me any issues, I was wondering if a stock Resurrection valve and seal would work since they’re cheap on ANS

      #6
      In theory a ressy valve should work...the holes might not line up and it might need some additional tuning but they are the right size for the tube. I've always just JB welded my stock valve pin on my slump builds and I currently have no problems with farting or anything.

      Comment


        #7
        Originally posted by Myrkul View Post
        In theory a ressy valve should work...the holes might not line up and it might need some additional tuning but they are the right size for the tube. I've always just JB welded my stock valve pin on my slump builds and I currently have no problems with farting or anything.
        Ditto. I jb welded my spump and went overboard and threw it on my mini lathe to get the whole thing down to a smooth cylinder. (A drill and sandpaper will do too!)
        Fred aka ChoSanJuan
        Team: With Intent
        I drop ship harder to find Kingman parts and 3D Printed items!
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          #8
          Does the spump click clack bloop yet?

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            #9
            Originally posted by MrKittyCatMeowFace View Post
            Does the spump click clack bloop yet?
            No. Honestly fell to the back burner since my Orracles have arrived and I’ve lost some interest in it. Now I’ve been in Tennessee since last Monday, I may come back this Friday or another 2 weeks depending on what the boss says. I have a long list to do when I return. I’ll glob some JB on the cup seal shaft and test everything out sooner than later. No sense sitting on the stupid thing.
            FEEDBACK Orracles (coming soon)

            Comment


              #10
              I really should at least try get my Spump together... but I need to slot the hammer (not looking forward to that), and either make a new back plate for my Empire Sniper pump kit that widens the pump arms, or somehow make pump arms that zig-zag out wider to get around the fat@$$ Spyder lower tube. I also need to make a "sled" that attaches to the back of the Lightning bolt, and looks good in the windows of a Spyder Victor body (I have a pretty good idea what I am doing for this). And even with all the procrastination and laziness, my Spump will probably get done before my pump action Omen (even though I want to use the Omen way more).
              If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
              IGY6; 503.995.0257

              Comment


                #11
                That's actually looking really good.
                Now pneumatic-assist it.

                Comment


                • Knuckle Dragger

                  Knuckle Dragger

                  commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Nah, it’s barely worth the effort as it is. Keep your eyes peeled, this may end up on the chopping block for someone who appreciates pumps.
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