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A crash course in Audi

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    #16
    ^Yes, in regard to the above, the car runs and pulls fine. I have noted the CEL will go out, and comes back on under a high pedal load. I hear many accounts that when the high pressure pump fails this way that there is a strong gasoline smell to the oil. I cannot say I note that when pulling the oil fill cap, but am putting enough oil in that it's using it before being impregnated with?

    Anyway, it's going in the shop tomorrow morning for some new brakes, a diagnostic of the issues at hand and an oil change. I figure we will eliminate the pumps/sensor/filter issue and hopefully find out the PCV valve is bad....best case scenario.
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      #17
      Got the car serviced, oil change, brake and rotor change. The compression is good, the PCV valve is good. The new brakes are fucking sweet!

      The car is throwing 4 codes, three of them I have already seen, one of them an evap code that the mech said "no worries" about. There is a pending code as well. Most of it has to do with the fuel items mentioned above. I cannot recall what the fourth one was. The mech said that the oil that came out was "nasty as fuck" and in his opinion no telling when it was last changed or if it were the proper oil in the first place.

      He suggested that the next step would be to mechanically check the pressure coming from the tank (low) pump, the high pump, and to check that mechanical information vs. what the car is reporting in order to rule out a bad sensor or what. He suggested that since the previous owners obviously weren't using the proper oil or maint. schedule that he wants me to drive it, use the good Top Tier fuel and his words were "beat it like a dog". His idea is to blow out some crud, see what codes it throws on next visit, and perhaps something will fail and be the smoking gun between now and then. I have another follow up on Jan 10th to continue the diagnostic.
      He mentioned that his opinion on it is that the follower on the cam lobe may be worn and the high pressure pump isn't fully actuating. I guess we will see.

      I took it out just a bit a go, put her in sport mode, and beat the snot out of it for a bit. No measured oil loss or smoking to be seen.
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        #18
        So, a fuel delivery rate test is what he wants to do? Okay. I’m not sure why he didn’t just pull the high side fuel pump out and check the cam follower as well as seeing if the fuel is leaking through the pump and into the oil. But, okay. It’s quicker inspecting the pump, then doing a fuel delivery rate test and start with that first. That’s just my opinion.

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        • punkncat

          punkncat

          commented
          Editing a comment
          My impression was that he wants to get physical pressure readings off a gauge and compare that to what the car is reporting. I have plans to pick up the "Ross" setup, perhaps talk Mrs Claus into getting me one in my stocking...

        • jwatts
          jwatts commented
          Editing a comment
          That’s correct. A “mechanical” measurement is done from the low side pump. Typically a normal operating low side pump, would delivery about 1000ml of fuel over a 15 second duration (at 12.5-13.0 volts). This related on a sliding scale according to voltage however, what was stated is about the norm. This is referred to as a delivery rate test for the low side pump.

        #19
        The issue(s) with my car seem to have been revolving around a bad fuel pressure sensor. Got it replaced and the codes went away. Took it on a test drive and the lean on start code popped up. They did a smoke test and found that my PCV and oil cap were damaged causing high block pressure. Got those replaced and the car is free of codes and very hopefully may not have that manner of oil consumption.

        I will know something more in the morning. Tech wants to let the car cool overnight and cold start in the morning and do a good test drive to see if anything pops back up. I really hope it works out because my truck is leaking fluid(s) now. Been an ongoing thing that I wasn't able to locate from above. Took it to a shop a couple of days ago and located a leaking valve cover gasket and something going on with the tailshaft of the trans.
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          #20
          As a lifelong VW lover I have to say that I never would have bought a decade old A4, or anything else with DI and turbo from any other manufacturer…and I know how to work on them. I own triple square sockets and VAG scan tools and I love this car but it’s a giant red flag factory I’d never touch. This was a bad move. You prioritized luxury and power over practicality. You bought a basket case autococker with your last $42. Live and learn. Next time you buy an old car make sure it’s Toyota or Honda, not DI, not turbo, and hopefully you can drive a stick. Something like that will live forever and even if it doesn’t you can replace an engine for what a turbo costs in an A4. This car’s best days ended with its first lease…in 2016.

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          • latches109

            latches109

            commented
            Editing a comment
            practicality if for people who can't afford "luxury and power" NA cars have their own problems, go build an e46 M5 for power, or a 1jz, 2jz. even the di Honda k engines have issues. Audis are fun! don't be scared of learning your car. Get vcds and pay attention.

          #21
          Originally posted by SignOfZeta View Post
          As a lifelong VW lover I have to say that I never would have bought a decade old A4, or anything else with DI and turbo from any other manufacturer…and I know how to work on them. I own triple square sockets and VAG scan tools and I love this car but it’s a giant red flag factory I’d never touch. This was a bad move. You prioritized luxury and power over practicality. You bought a basket case autococker with your last $42. Live and learn. Next time you buy an old car make sure it’s Toyota or Honda, not DI, not turbo, and hopefully you can drive a stick. Something like that will live forever and even if it doesn’t you can replace an engine for what a turbo costs in an A4. This car’s best days ended with its first lease…in 2016.
          Of no question, you are correct. This was a terrible purchase from a practical or reliable POV. Just the same, I haven't had nearly the fun driving around various places in the Camry. I enjoy the car a great deal. Sometimes we make exceptions to what "makes sense" in lieu of having a good time. I did this specifically with the intent of not having another vanilla four door in the garage. I have driven enough boring ass plain Jane cars in my day....and I have an exceptional gift at picking bad fun ones. This just adds to the list along with Z cars, RX cars, Camaro cars, Volvo cars...and on.

          Thanks for putting that pill inside a piece of cheese for me. I would add asshole, but you likely already know that...
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            #22
            Originally posted by SignOfZeta View Post
            As a lifelong VW lover I have to say that I never would have bought a decade old A4, or anything else with DI and turbo from any other manufacturer…and I know how to work on them. I own triple square sockets and VAG scan tools and I love this car but it’s a giant red flag factory I’d never touch. This was a bad move. You prioritized luxury and power over practicality. You bought a basket case autococker with your last $42. Live and learn. Next time you buy an old car make sure it’s Toyota or Honda, not DI, not turbo, and hopefully you can drive a stick. Something like that will live forever and even if it doesn’t you can replace an engine for what a turbo costs in an A4. This car’s best days ended with its first lease…in 2016.
            I here what your saying but, that’s not entirely true. Direct injection turbo motors can last a very long time without issues, as long as the owner is proactive in maintaining them. Not waiting till something breaks until it’s ready to be repaired. While they can be expensive to repair, maintenance go along way. Example: I purchased a 2008 A4 2.0l turbo with 99k miles. Nothing horribly wrong with it when I bought it but, nevertheless it still needed some love’n. I immediately replaced the PCV, oil cooler housing, thermostat, vacuum pump, timing belt, H20 pump and other major service items as well. 60k miles later, the engine is still running great. The valve train and bottom end, is still good to go. The same can be said for 2009-13 A4’s. Replace the know issues and it will last for a long time. Chain, guides, PCV, thermostat, etc. Proactive maintenance is the key, in my experience.

            however, it comes easy to me because I work on them too. Audi is not for the faint of heart and absolutely does require money and or skills to make them last.

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              #23
              when i was looking at the BMW with the TT N54 engine is was told some pretty solid advice.

              "if you cant afford it new, you cant afford it used..."

              Over 100k miles and they could be had for cheap but;

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