Phantom - Dual Rod Kit - Very Rough Pump Stroke

[Ego10Baller]

I am having a recurring issue with my phantom and CCI dual rod UC kit. Over about 75 or so pump strokes the pump stroke will become gradually more and more rough until it eventually feels like I’m pushing up against metal rubbing on metal about mid-way through the pump stroke.

The resistance is always felt at the mid-way point. I’ve tried to fix it by disassembling the marker and making sure that the pump rod was seated properly in the bolt. From what I could tell, it was seated properly.

Upon reassembly, the pump stroke was fully smoothed out and I thought I had fixed the mystery issue. Sure enough, about 75 or so pump strokes later, the issue is back and just as bad as before. It continues to worsen as I continue to pump it.

Im probably making a boneheaded move on my end but I’ve never had this issue before with my phantom when I ran the old wevo kits and standard over the barrel pump kits. I did also recently change out the VSC body for a different colored VSC body from the new CCI owners but I doubt that’s the issue; from what I can tell the inside of the new VSC body is just as smooth as the last.

Additional details: there is no play or wobble with the pump handle and all of the screws on the marker and pump kit are firmly seated.

Any help and insight here is very greatly appreciated.

[autococker04]

Is your power tube coming loose or broken? I had one that would seal fine, but the pump stroke was rough and that was the cause.

https://imgur.com/gallery/P9DR0wO

[Chuck E Ducky]

Are you using one of those brass inserts on the pump arm? Check that your pump arm is not bent and binding on the Chanel in the frame it rides in. Remove the nut from the pump arm if you used the one from a over barrel pump handle. The nut can bind on the barrel. Also check the power tube is not ruff or scored and the cup seal hasn’t backed off like Autococker suggested.

[Ego10Baller]

autococker04 Thank you very much for the advice. The power tube was locked in tight and I had to remove it with a wrench so I think we're good to go there. The tube itself, after screwing in all the way, will turn freely in the assembly if you keep 'tightening' it but I'm guessing that's normal. I've included some pictures of the tube and internals to see if perhaps there is something I am missing there (which is very possible).

Chuck E Ducky No brass inserts are being used currently. I've included pictures of the pump arm; it looks to be straight though I could be missing something. There is some wear at the back of the channel that it rides in but that might be normal? I've included pictures of everything, just in case.

I haven't been running the metal nut on the pump arm though the little plastic washer is still on there..should I remove that? In terms of the power tube and cup seal, I think everything is good there but I've gone ahead and included pictures just in case. I'm not a phantom expert by any means and I greatly appreciate the advice and insights.

In addition, I've taken pictures of the wear points that I noticed on the VSC body channel and on the bolt itself in the hope that it can help to diagnose the issue.

When I took the power tube out and continued to gently work the pump-action, I noticed that there was still some binding there though it lessened and then went away entirely after working the pump about 15-20 times (which, in my mind at least, is strange). As soon as I re-inserted and locked in the power tube, with the thumbscrew, the pump stroke went right back to the binding up again.

Here is the link to the photos: https://imgur.com/a/jEFoZmz

If there is any additional detail or are any pictures that I can provide to help you both better help me, please let me know and I'll upload them/write up additional detail ASAP. Thank you both again for the help; I sincerely appreciate it

[iamthelazerviking]

Not that this is the solution, or that it matters, but I see you are using the return spring/washer on the pump arm still. Up to you on that, but these were designed to use the two return springs inside the pump handle in place of the old return spring.

[Ego10Baller]

That's great to know; I wasn't aware that I was supposed to remove the extra spring; I'll take those both off (the plastic washer and spring) and see if that helps alleviate the issue. Thank you!

[FrankW]

Maybe try playing around with how far you have the pump arm screwed into the pump handle. I remember that being a factor in the pump stroke.

[Ego10Baller]

Thank you, FrankW; that's a big help. Should any threads be showing? From what I see when I google this kit on other people's phantoms it looks like no threads are showing but I also could be missing something. If some threads are supposed to be showing, do you happen to remember how many showing worked for you?

[autococker04]

In your pictures the internals look basically new except for the bolt/ hammer/ whatever they’re called on a Nelson which looks to have some wear on the edges. I’d smooth that out with some very high grit sand paper and oil it up before reassembally.

[Ego10Baller]

Update (and thank you all again for the help): I threaded the cocking rod out 8 threads (per the single rod UC kit instructions on the CCI website) and removed the spring + plastic washer on the pump arm per iamthelazerviking 's recommendation. For now, it seems to be working smoothly. Thank you all!

[Chuck E Ducky]

Nice glad you got it figured out. It’s always something simple when it comes to the phantom.