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RT fine Tuning

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    RT fine Tuning

    `I inherited my cousins old RT classic. Thanks to all the good info here - esp. the sticky. I went through and got a full re-build kit installed, re-greased the reg spring and got it shooting nicely. took it our for a couple games on monday and love this thing. I've got about a half case through it now and will get some more through it this week to help get past the 1 case or so break in before I start fiddling with it more.

    It came with a pro-team double trigger frame. I'm running a 68/4500 with a TKO reg factory set to 850. it has a level ten installed

    its definitely not easy to RT this thing - every once in awhile I touch the trigger just right and rip a little string of 4-5 balls and that feels nice!

    my questions are as follows:

    is it just to early in the break in to be making assumptions on how well it will RT? I don't need this thing ripping 30BPS my hope is to fine tune it to the point where I can have that 10 BPS there if i need it

    is 850 just to low for effective RT? what can be done within that pressure range that will help with RT, or would 900-950 be a better target. I've seen videos of what happens up around 1100!

    how much of this might be that Pro-team double trigger? never really liked the feel of double triggers, and really only see the RT come into play when i have one finger on the upper half of the trigger. the lower half seems to just give to much leverage.

    i'm no expert here but it seems to me the push back on the trigger should be stronger than it is to get a nice balance of finger pressure and trigger pressure to bounce it - its there anything to do to effect that pressure - again is it just break in time?

    can someone explain Valve recharge rate - I know bearded works says its almost as important as input pressure - is this related to the tank reg or the body reg?


    #2
    RT effect is based on a few things. how broken in the orings are, On/off pin length and tank reg output and recharge. You do not need 1100 psi to get it to rt. I have mags that will rt at 800psi just fine. you will need to wear in the orings and adjust the pin length to get it where you want it. I typically do not go shorter than . 740.

    Once the orings are worn in then start adjusting stuff. I personally also run the gold spring as it requires less pressure to fire the ball. It is a bit harder on paint but more efficient.
    BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
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    I buy Automags and Mag Parts also.

    Comment


      #3
      thanks BW.
      by "adjusting the pin length" are you literally just grinding/filing off a smidge and testing it? so crazy how that can have an effect. Will measure mine tonight and see if anyone did anything to it in the past.

      the AGD re-build kit came with a gold spring. its about 1/8" longer than the gold spring in the automag kits.

      Comment


      • superman

        superman

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Gold spring should be the same in both kits. either way is fine.
        Yes to the grinding, but make sure it is flat on the bottom, make sure the orings are broken in and if you need a replacement agd has them.

      • BrickHaus

        BrickHaus

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Chuck the pin in a drill carefully and try to stone the face while spinning. It'll help keep you true. I used to have a buzzsaw mag we took the pin down in.

      #4


      With regard to just pressure, I have three bouncers that I used to play scenarios with. I always checked the rate while chrono'ing. Higher pressures always gave me a stronger bounce and a faster bounce. 850psi was weak at about 12 bps. 950 was about 17 bps. The little white bat radar chrony gives you a rate when you do multi-shots. Check your field rules on the max rate.

      superman we used to use ult/lvl 10 shims in RT tops to test shorter pin lengths. Is the draw back that you're crowding the top orings? Or is the top exhaust indexed to the port, which would get turned a little? It's been too long.
      Feedback

      https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...der-s-feedback

      Comment


      • superman

        superman

        commented
        Editing a comment
        I have seen some on/offs where they have a hard enough time fitting into a normal body with fresh orings let alone adding shims. I could see adding shims causing a tighter fit on the smaller oring aswell. I think it really just depends on how the tolerance stack ends up.
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