Bob Long’s Defiant Rebuild Thread
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Next is removing the frame. At first I was worried it may have a broke frame screw, but the front grip frame screw is actually top mounted in the tray.
To remove the trigger frame from the body you need to remove both the tray and the trigger frame by removed the 4 long bolts two of which are located at the rear of the marker and two just behind the front grip.
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While separating the tray and trigger frame from the body you can access the battery. It’s alway interesting to see just how old of a battery is in these old markers. Gives you an idea of the last time it was use.
And here we have a 7-11 special, so someone needed to grab a battery on the way to the field before being able to play.
And here’s a view of the battery tray:
And the board, located in the grip frame. Note the ICD board dated 1999.
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At this point I was thinking it looked a lot like a B2K. And yep, icd parts all over. Is this just a private label B2K? Or is it the other way around?
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It's actually neither.
The Bob Long Defiant and ICD B2K was a joint venture between Jerry Dobbins and Bob Long. They are almost completely identical, with a few big differences:
1: Defiants use Autococker Threaded Barrels, Pre 2003.5 Bushmasters use ICD threads.
2: The Bob Long Defiant Grip Frame has finger grooves, the Bushmaster Grip Frame is Smooth.
3: The milling is different on the defiant body, and there is a smaller recess for the Jewel. The sight rail on a defiant is also taller so it needs a longer bolt pin to accommodate it.
Other then that, the guns are identical. If you look closely at the serial numbers on the Defiants, they are actually stamped:
ICD
BLD ####
So I'm assuming ICD milled the blanks prior to sending them off to Bob long. It's also worth noting that all the Defiant Solenoids and circuit board also have ICD stickers on them.Last edited by Myrkul; 05-23-2025, 08:15 PM.
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And that’s it for tonight! Next steps involve a blow dryer, some minor offensive language and a strap wrench.
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Nice, Nice, Very Nice!!!!!
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Now to the HPR. I was surprise how easily it actually disassembled except for one piece.
Turns out three main body of the HPR comes off nicely and the bottom of the HPR, the hollow section, just screws right off.
Couple little pieces to keep track of when the main body section.
Now getting the HPR adaptor off the body was a pain. No wrench flats.
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Now to disassemble the HPR. A slotted screwdriver remove the bottom piece:
Pretty sure the spring isn’t supposed to be sitting like that. Good thing I didn’t try to air this up right away.
And man is it ever dirty in there! But considering this marker is 25 years old… not too bad.
And here is the full assembly laid out:
And what the reg seal looks like in the reg housing;
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And now to deal with the regulator adaptor. To start I hit this with a blow dryer for a bit to loosen the loctite that ended up being on it. Couldn’t find my usual one, so don’t tell me wife I used the good one….
So this price threads into the body, and up into the rear lower tube of the body and blocks the value… so it has to come out.
After a bit of persuasion the adaptor started to move and o removed it entirely from the body:
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