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Montneel Designs Z-1

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  • Chappy
    replied
    Originally posted by Chappy View Post
    Found the old parts list.

    Valve body - 013 90 duro
    valve tube oring - 010 90 duro
    hammer - 012 70 duro

    there is no listing for the cup seal orings. As near as I can tell they were only sold as a unit.
    There is another listed in the oring kit. It is 011 70 duro. I do not believe this is the cup seal size, however. My guess is that is a hammer oring for earlier models.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chappy
    commented on 's reply
    Go back to post #8 I posted from the parts list

  • mrcoco
    replied
    Just found this site that carries O-rings for Paintball guns ... Just have to find the right one to choose from ... any ideas ????

    Captain O-Ring Paintball Rebuild Kits, Marker and Tank Spare Parts Kits and Upgrades

    Leave a comment:


  • mrcoco
    commented on 's reply
    I was not from Colchester but my Field Manager and Captain of the Ct. Wolverines is from Colchester, Named Ted Powell.

  • mrcoco
    commented on 's reply
    can you post all the o-ring sizes that you have in the parts box .. mine zs have been sitting too long and need to replace them all, also do you know which one will go where .. thanks

  • tarakian
    replied
    I talked to Busty, he wasn't exactly sure of the size since they were installed during the manufacturing process. I pulled out the parts box and measured the o-rings I have against the cup seals I have and it looks the it should be an 011 90D urethane o-ring. If you were to try to replace an existing o-ring, you would have to flare the brass out before installing the new one. Back in the day, there was a home made fixture in the shop that was used to form the brass back around the o-ring, which would be a necessary step. Only used it for the occasional piece that arrived uncrimped. Another possible option would be to use a cup seal for a .68 Special. MontNeel got its start making better cup seals for the .68 Special, and Busty seems to remember that they would work. That was before my time, so I can't say either way.

    Leave a comment:


  • NONOBLITUS
    replied
    I am still hunting for a cup seal fix but so far nothing is working, I am not giving up though. Any headway Doc investigating these ?

    Leave a comment:


  • NONOBLITUS
    commented on 's reply
    The like button should allow you to hit it over and over. This is awesome that you are going to have a look. I’ll be down for some for sure.

  • DocsMachine
    replied
    Originally posted by Meleager7 View Post
    If Doc made some Montneel cup seals, I would buy some Doc Nickel Montneel Cup Seals
    -You have but to ask.

    I'll dig out my Mega and the box of Z parts this weekend, and see what I can come up with.

    Doc.

    Leave a comment:


  • tarakian
    commented on 's reply
    Buna will not work, it can't take the liquid CO2. As you found, it fails pretty quickly. I can go through the parts kit and see what's in there, and I'll ask Busty if he remembers. I can also check with Moe.

  • Meleager7
    replied
    Originally posted by forumreader View Post
    It's been many years since I've been in a montneel Z, but from what I recall, the cup seal is not serviceable. The brass disc holds an off the shelf urethane oring - something like a 009 or 010. The problem is, when they built cup seals, they folded the brass around the oring to permanently hold it in place. Basically, if you can chip that old oring out, it's unlikely that you will be able to get a new one in there. New seals could be constructed with new orings (or copy the stingray design and use a washer of some sort).

    DocsMachine might be the person to contact for this. He made new bumpers and I know he could make new cup seals if motivated properly.
    If Doc made some Montneel cup seals, I would buy some Doc Nickel Montneel Cup Seals

    Leave a comment:


  • forumreader
    replied
    It's been many years since I've been in a montneel Z, but from what I recall, the cup seal is not serviceable. The brass disc holds an off the shelf urethane oring - something like a 009 or 010. The problem is, when they built cup seals, they folded the brass around the oring to permanently hold it in place. Basically, if you can chip that old oring out, it's unlikely that you will be able to get a new one in there. New seals could be constructed with new orings (or copy the stingray design and use a washer of some sort).

    DocsMachine might be the person to contact for this. He made new bumpers and I know he could make new cup seals if motivated properly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chappy
    replied
    So just a few more thoughts about the cup seal... the outer ring is easy enough and I’ve managed to find orings that will seal. That might be what the 011 in the parts kit, can’t say for sure. Been a while
    It’s the face that obviously causes problems. I’ve tried a few times and actually found sizes that would fit, though I only managed to find buna. However any I was able to fit were tossed after a few dozen shots. Whether this was because they were the wrong size, wrong material, or the cup seal seal was just too worn who knows? It be awesome if Tarakian could get that info from Busty. Hopefully these aren’t lost to the sands of time and the cobwebs in our brains...

    Leave a comment:


  • tarakian
    commented on 's reply
    Correct, the cup seals were only sold as a set. I don't remember the o-ring size, but I might have some old ones still in the parts box. Don't know how to measure them, but I can always ask Busty.

  • NONOBLITUS
    commented on 's reply
    I started playing in 1990 at Strategy plus in East Hampton and renegade play wherever we could. I played all the tournaments that we could in Sterling ????? Those were a blast with teams heading in different directions. We always were playing under the team Connecticut Headhunters back then. Are you from Colchester because that would mean you know me and the guys from that team.
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