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Brass K-Frames

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    Brass K-Frames

    Dan Sergison just let me know that he should have brass k-frames in stock within the next week.

    #2
    Damnit. I should have waited. Lmao.

    How much are the brass ones? Imma have to get one. I think my RTap viper would be sick with a k frame. Even though its a feedneck gun.
    https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

    Comment


      #3
      He didn’t give me price yet, I didn’t think to ask either, I just told him to let me know as soon as they are ready. I basically need one for Cosmos so…

      Comment


      • BrickHaus

        BrickHaus

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Yeah, in your case it it worth every penny for that beauty. For me I just wanted to k frame a pgp so aluminum works.

        But a stainless rtp viper would look sweet with a brass frame. So im gonna sell some semi auto bits to cover moar sheridan stuff.

      #4
      According to his gallery, brass frames start at $260


      My aluminum was quoted $170 raw, and his gallery quotes them starting at $165. Im willing to bet the gallery quotes are close, but low due to material costs, so I'm guessing you will get quoted 280 shipped?
      https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

      Comment


        #5
        Brass I think are $280 he made 6 so far for people already asking for them. He said he will make more based on interest and will get to everyone. So get your name on that list gentleman.

        Comment


          #6
          i wanna k-frame my mac-1 sooooo bad, brass would be super sexy. time to start unloading some gear.

          Comment


          • Chuck E Ducky

            Chuck E Ducky

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Wait you have a working Master Blaster. A K-frame would be so sick on that.

          #7
          I was looking over the sergison site and didn't see a way to purchase any wares. Is he accepting work requests?

          Or if anyone is looking to part ways with a black, unfinished or clear annodized framefit for a K series (stocked) rifle please DM me.

          Comment


          • El Gringo

            El Gringo

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Try getting ahold of him on Facebook

          • JeeperCreeper

            JeeperCreeper

            commented
            Editing a comment
            When I ordered mine, I sent an email. He's pretty good about replying

          • BrickHaus

            BrickHaus

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Yeah emailing the address on his site brought me results.

          #8
          Thank you

          Comment


            #9
            I'm looking for one to place on my painter.

            But I'm not sure how to distinguish. Is it just in the length of the front mount?

            Comment


              #10
              Yeah. Essentially a scratch built palmers is likely palmers length. If the stock frame is mounted on the tab in front of the trigger guard its palmers length.

              If the front screw is mounted inside of the trigger guard its sheridan length.
              https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

              Comment


                #12
                Will this identify what sort of grip id be looking for from Sergison?

                A question.

                In regards to the removal of the stock.

                I couldn't get the cap head screw to come out, it turns but it doesn't back out. The flush head did come out though, am I missing something? And should I have two flush mount screws or is it this correct to have a cap and a flush mount?
                -------
                Nasty painter with spring feed.

                Comment


                  #13
                  Ohhh. Its a rifle.. it may not actually have a front frame hole. It may have a pringle screw for mounting a stock.

                  The stock should come off with the removal of the front flat head screw on the mount. . I bet the cap head screw is just into the wood.
                  https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

                  Comment


                  • BrickHaus

                    BrickHaus

                    commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Ultimately the spacing will me the front flat head screws location for your front frame screw.. if thats a threaded hole.

                  #14
                  Let me ask you this though.. how are you going to supply air after your k frame swap? the k frame will not have ASA support with its round but in the grip. Do you will need to re think something. 12ies or a tank present different challenges. I'd recommend a bucket changer where the steel braid is as a k frame is leans towards a pistol rig.
                  https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

                  Comment


                    #15
                    The flush mount does come out, the cap can turn but does not seem to back out. The SS set screw look to just be a plug in the wood however it may make contact with the sear for tuning purposes.

                    I did have a KP2 long ago but sadly sadly to leave my collection. I did pickup K frame from Chef Dave that fit correctly, however I believe I understand that this is lower tube is not laid out the same.

                    Anyway.

                    I am looking to do a few things with this and the K-frame is a big aspect.

                    I'm hoping I can carry forward but if I can't I am still going to be happy with this sweet piece.

                    Comment


                    • BrickHaus

                      BrickHaus

                      commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Man thats a beauty.

                      The flat head screw just spins? Im pretty sure the flat head should be whats holding the shooter to the stock. Weird it just spins.. you sure it didnt back out and is just captured by the wood? The braided line may be holding it all together enough too.

                    • BrickHaus

                      BrickHaus

                      commented
                      Editing a comment
                      The issue as far as I understand with the layout out will be that the front hole on this is likely a through hole in the lower tube of the body. Then there is a pringle screw running from inside to create a male stud. Then a female standoff is threaded to said stud. Your stock is likely threaded into the stand off.

                      You get this all apart and spacing is all fine and dandy, but the k frame wants to mount to a female thread.. The thread cert (or cart valve in some cases) you are going to likely have to find a way adapt the frame there.
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