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Tippmann Bolts

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    Tippmann Bolts

    We're there ever any Tippmann bolts made that have an internal powertube sealing oring, as well as having the breach sealing oring halfish way back? I'm aware that bolt upgrades on a Tippmann do little, but I'd like to know.

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    #2
    there was one with an internal oring. forgot who made it

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      #3
      Everybody forgot who made it because it caused drag on the power tube and destroyed performance.

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        #4
        I think the orange bolt has this feature? Found a pic, and yes they do!
        Attached Files
        '96 RF Mini Cocker, '95 RF Autococker, 68-Automag Classic, Banzai Splash Minimag, Gen-E Matrix, Shoebox Shocker 4x4, Montneel Z-1, Tippmann Pro-Carbine, Tippmann Mini-Lite, Tippmann Model-98, Tippmann 68-Special, Spyder .50 cal Opus/Opus-A , Tippmann .50 Cal Cronus , Gog Enmey .50 cal , Tippmann Vert ASA 68-Carbine, Bob Long Millennium, ICD Grey Green Marble Splash Alleycat Deluxe (runs liquid co2) , Halfblock 2K4 Prostock Autococker , 2K RF Sniper II

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          #5
          If you find one of those Orange bolts, it's worth its weight in gold. They're the only Tippmann bolt that didn't actively decrease the gun's performance.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Meleager7 View Post
            I think the orange bolt has this feature? Found a pic, and yes they do!
            I'm looking for one that has an external oring a bit further back on the outside, like the one pictured below. Also, what's the difference between the killhouse bolt and the orange one?

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              #7
              I can't speak to your original question OP, but I do have experience with the tech-T super bolt and it's dog shit. There is zero reason to switch from stock.

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                #8
                Originally posted by Myrkul View Post
                I can't speak to your original question OP, but I do have experience with the tech-T super bolt and it's dog shit. There is zero reason to switch from stock.
                Yes I have heard about the dog shitish nature of the techt bolt.

                My reasoning for wanting to change the bolt is to be able to use a bore sizing kit, and still have the bolt get full travel/not cause great friction on the inside of the bore, while still having a breach and powertube sealing oring.

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                  #9
                  What benefit are you hoping from the breach and power tube sealing orings? I think you will be let down.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Chappy View Post
                    What benefit are you hoping from the breach and power tube sealing orings? I think you will be let down.
                    The theory goes, that the bolt sealing off at the powertube reduces gas blowing rearward towards the feedneck area. so you gain a little FPS and can turn spring tension down, and prevent "popcorning" in the feedneck. also you could even argue that it provides two points of contact instead of just the one at the front of the bolt, so the inline motion might be more linear and less sloppy, especially since it is driven forward by the linkage connected in the rear of the bolt.

                    the downside would be the drag you're talking about, but in fairness the packaging of the orange bolt said to lightly sand the powertube for a custom fit.

                    all of that being said...what i just babbled about is super negligible anyway. there are several things i would do to a tippmann blowback before fooling with the front bolt. namely polished receivers and striker, spring kit or rear velocity adjust, decent barrel. maybe some trigger mods, new ASA, rap4 metal feedneck if you're feeling real crazy.

                    to answer OPs questions, the killhouse bolt is pretty similar to the orange bolt (i have the orange, friend has the killhouse). i believe the main difference i remember is the face of the orange is cupped while the killhouse is flat. you could lightly sand the edges of the face and get a similar result, but i haven't seen it cause problems.

                    as far as that different bolt design it seems interesting, always wondered why a couple bolts had a o-ring far back like that, now i realize its to fit into a tighter barrel. i'm skeptical but 13 bucks is pretty cheap, might be worth experimenting.
                    Formerly chodeyg, forgive me for growing sick of the username.

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                      #11
                      I think cupped faces cause more problems than they could fix. Mostly rollback issues.

                      Something that I just tried is sanding down the bolt od ahead of the oring, and giving it a slight bevel. The bolt certainly seems to stick further into the barrel before getting jammed.

                      I think the best solution would be to have the oring back in a spot where it just seals the breach, but doesn't cause great friction in the barrel.

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                        #12
                        I had an Orange bolt on a polished metal powertube, and it was smooth as silk. If Orange bolts caused you problems, you weren't doing it right.
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