Looks like I’ve got all the bits and pieces rebuilt. Running extremely low on air and don’t remember where to start when adjusting an oracle 3-way from scratch. Time to learn though!
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On laundry duty today, which means tinker time! The laundry is beside my shop. Scraping the bottom of my scuba tanks so filling. 17/3000 tank to 1k which lasts about
5 seconds. Making progress though and have had the odd leaking cycle. Finding a decent starting point on an oracle 3-way is a pain. There was a reason I put ID 3-ways on my other cockers…
Update: I’m quiting trying to do everything the easy way and cutting corners hoping things work. I’m removing the HPR and will set the adjustment to 300-350 and they going to start the timing process again. My 3-way just keeps leaking all my air despite orings. So need to make sure my HPR is set in the proper range.Last edited by Cdn_Cuda; 03-07-2026, 06:49 PM.Comment
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Yeah orracle 3ways are annoying to work on. I usually just left the outer body alone, tightened all the way own, and just tuned it like a regular 3way.
Also, pro/ghetto tip; I would often rough tune my 3ways by blowing into the macroline and getting the actuation point kinda close to where I want it, and then actually gas it up and tune from there. Helps save air.Comment
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So looks like I have an issue with parts compatibility. The timing rod on the marker is shorter, but as the same spacing of orings as one I have in my parts bin. I have several oracle 3-ways in my parts bin, so thinking swapping to the longer timing rod will be easier to time… I hope.
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Stopped struggling with the Oracle abs started using my brain, aligned each piece before installing to help get it to work. Looks like problem was my timing rod was too far forward, even at flush, so adjustment would not work. So I’ve totally redone the oracle 3 way from scratch. I removed the barbs, took it all apart and set the body with the timing rod, then aligned the middle adjustable portion, so timing should be close. Had to re-loctite it all so waiting for it to cure.
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Much effort yielded much rewards. 3-way no longer leaks. Need to work on timing it properly now, but much easier when you don’t like your entire air tank in 10 seconds.Comment
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Still hitting roadblock after roadblock with this marker. One step forward, two steps back. Even with the swing frame and swapped house it still not behaving. Given the age of this body and I am already experience the inserted tubes rotating slight I am going to pivot back to a Sniper build.
I can get a nice silver and red pre2k pump kit for Autocockerparts.com. I like the dual colour over the tri-colour as well.
And just to make myself feel better after waving a white flag on this mech build I put a few rounds through my pre-2k build and it worked flawlessly and felt great to shoot…. So at least on that build I did a good job!
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This has been sitting in purgatory for a bit now but I have modest actually progress! Swedgin!! pointed me in the right direction and I picked up a pre-2k guide rod from RCADE in Hawaii. He need to do a few things to make it possible, but came through big time and sent me the part.
So now i have all the parts in place to move ahead on the build! One slight hiccup is the pump handle plate is slightly too small so I need to drill it out. No biggy, the pump handle itself fits perfectly.
So tomorrow I’ll get the proper drill bit and drill
out the back plate get this assembled and maybe slinging paint by this weekend!Last edited by Cdn_Cuda; 06-11-2026, 06:38 PM.Comment
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Finally got the necessary drill bit, a 25/64 and got the pump handle back plate drilled on the drill press. If I bored it out any large was going to mess up the bolts to
mount the handle. Good thing my had a drill template to try!
I did air it up as was and it did shoot, with a very minor leak. It was shooting low though and my pump guide arm would freely rotated, which was less than ideal. A well placed o-ring on the main pump shaft solved that issues and I swapped in a main spring to give it some more oomf.
I’ll see about posting g a shooting video later this even.
On thing I wish I had, in the era of 3D printing, is a hopper that connects direct to the feed without adaptor. Maybe that’s a good excuse to get a 3d printer! Drop the hopper down and bit and lose some of the clutter of an adaptor.
And for the setup of the marker, it’s obvious a pre-2k marker running a standard cocker valve, a Trilogy Pro backblock with a 2k shocktech bolt. I also have an OD trident I can swap on as well.
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Chrono’d the marker over the weekend and wasn’t even hitting 200. So played with springs and read some refresher threads here to remind me about pre2k cockers. Eventually popped open my pre2k cocker compare springs. My valve spring was too long and needed to be cut. This is why I couldn’t thread the lock nut in and figured it was stripped. Not striped, just couldn’t depress the spring enough.
So now sporting a shorted valve spring and a proper lower tube assembly. Likely need to trim the main spring, but will wait and see what I get on the chrono. I need to check the output of my pre2k cocker HPR as well to check my output pressure to hopefully make sweet spotting a little easier.
so all positive steps forward! And thankfully I have a mount of springs to play around with.
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Spent some time working on springs with no luck. Swapped the entire lower tube and HPR for my pre2k cocker and still massively leaked. I’m going to seal the front pump arm and see if that works. I also have the options of putting in a Nova balance valve in. Valve is in another pump at the moment, but at this rate I’ll try anything .
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Is the bolt's inlet lined up with the valve ports? Sometimes mixing and matching across the different years can yield odd results.Comment
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Following Jordan’s advice, I started to check how things were fitting. Turns out some of my valve do not hit properly in this body, which causes air issues. My older brass valves seem to work better, newer aluminum ones do not. I have two Rat valves but one need a new oring on the pin and can’t find the other one. I do not like putting orings on these valve pins...
Edit: and those valves don’t fit either. But one of my brass ones does line up properly.Comment
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