Any chance you would be interested in making some Thadatpers? I have a project that needs a custom bolt and a thadapter... if you are interested i would love to send it your way!
NSD2 Sheridan Parts - Bolts, bits, and bobs
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What's a Thadapter? I found a Bacci article mentioning it, but I can't tell what part it is on the gun. -
Brokeass_baller
Here is a link
1:10 in Bacci is showing the thadapter
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4vqFYt1srDo&t=26s
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I messaged you, but just for the sake of being sure I'll post here too, JC changed my PG breech to pgp diameter, it you could switch my spot on the list from a PG diameter to pgp diameter that would be awesome. Thanks!Comment
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Jordan Dan just emailed me to say he'd try to ship out the k frame by the end of this upcoming week. I'll be sure to tag you when I make the thread after it arrives. -
Those are pretty simple. Maybe I can make a few and toss them into the anno batch for the centerfire bolts. -
netsurferdude2 - I'd be up for two for sure.
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Alright NSD. Here is what I was thinking, and just holler if a typical rod end method is just going to be better in the long run..this is just my brain child.
So im making a lever. in my head, I was thinking of utilizing a series of shoulder bolts, and bushings to transfer the energy into the bolt.
I was thinking a 10-32 shoulder bolt tapped into the rear of the bolt would give me the best energy transfer.
So basically, I want a normal kp2 bolt, but rather than the off kilter hole for the pump rod they usually have, I want a large flat decked on the 3 o clock plane, and a 10-32 tapped hole for my desired shoulder bolt.
Id want more of a deck than my practice bolt has if we do this. At least enough for q 1/4 diameter shoulder to hit. It can be longer out of the back of the gun. I can always make the arms different.3 PhotosComment
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Not available yet!
All lathe work should be done friday. I will then complete the milling and send out for anodizing.Comment
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For anodizing color, I am going with one of 3 options; a very dark bronze, dark green, or dark blue.
I don't want to do straight black as that was the general joes bolts were.
Also for those of you who want RVAs. Do you have a thread preference or a hex size preference? Maybe I'll just copy what PPS uses to make it easy for everyone.Comment
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Dark blue, like OG Sheridans? That's got my vote but ultimately don't care all that much.For anodizing color, I am going with one of 3 options; a very dark bronze, dark green, or dark blue.
I don't want to do straight black as that was the general joes bolts were.
Also for those of you who want RVAs. Do you have a thread preference or a hex size preference? Maybe I'll just copy what PPS uses to make it easy for everyone.
I'd recommend using 3/8"-24 like PPS... I drilled/tapped a KP rear cap for 3/8" coarse (all I had on hand) and it's a bit twitchy to adjust velocity with.Comment
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My vote is dark bronze, then green. Long as its like an od green.Comment
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At this time, yes. With my skill level, there isn't any way I could make these worth my time. The thin walled adapter with the multi-start internal thread would be a little challenging. Parting then flipping in the chuck, dialing it in concentric, and doing an external thread sounds like a lot of work with a high chance of me screwing it up.
I believe Bret and Jake are making their own fast changers for their builds so maybe in the future they will be selling them.
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