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Opinions on cerakote

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    Opinions on cerakote

    Looking for people’s opinions/experiences with cerakote on paintball markers. I know it’s less durable than anodizing. But I’m playing with the idea for a duckslide build and looking for people’s take on it as a finish vs anodizing.

    i should add this will absolutely not be a wall hanger. It’ll likely see a lot of field time so a finish that can withstand abuse is a must.
    Last edited by Ordo; 01-06-2024, 07:39 PM.
    Real sucker for all things Phantom

    #2
    If properly applied I would say Cerakote is more durable then anodization. Type II anodization is primarily for cosmetic and minor corrosion protections; it does not provide any real wear or abuse protection beyond a very thin layer at the top of alloy where the pores in the metal is closed up with some type of dye in it. While I do not currently have any paintball equipment Cerakote covered I do have a few real firearms that I have that are Cerakoted and it is really tough and does a good job of protecting the metal below it even where slide surfaces move against each other. I forget who it is right now but there is a member here who has a Cerakoted Duckslide and loves their marker. Now that I have had the top of mine milled down I am contemplating Cerakoting mine as well just so I do not have to strip anodization and have it re-anodized. It [Cerakote] does have some thickness it adds to parts so keep that in mind but Cerakote is used to actually provide a lubricating surface.


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    • Ordo

      Ordo

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Oh nice. That’s all very useful info. I was mislead into believing ano held up better to dings/scratches. I’m glad to hear otherwise. I’m strongly considering it. Hopefully that cerakoted duck owner gets tagged or chimes in. Im very interested.

      As for cerakote removal, in theory, if one wanted to change their cerakote; would that involve some sort of media blasting of the marker?

    • Grendel

      Grendel

      commented
      Editing a comment
      media blast is the recommended method of Cerakote removal.

    #3
    I rank it as slightly better than spray paint. It's great until there's even a minor defect in the coating, then it starts peeling away. There's no covalent bonding to the surface that helps hold it in place like there is with anodizing being trapped in pores.

    If aesthetics is the only reason, I'd experiment with hydrodip. At least then you can go with some crazy designs.
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      #4
      @BLachance75 has the Duckslide with Cerakote he would be a good person to talk to with recommendations and such.


      "When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it." - Theodore Roosevelt

      Feedback Link - https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...del-s-feedback

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        #5
        Mine is not a wall hanger either. I use it is my main stock class gun.



        If I did it again I wouldn't have the barrel coated and I'd make sure that they taped off the inside of the slide where the barrel goes. My barrel was coated and it is scratched. It doesn't affect anything as it is on the outside of the barrel that is covered by the slide but it looks terrible. I'll try to remember to take a picture of it.

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        • Ordo

          Ordo

          commented
          Editing a comment
          Oh very nice. I remember seeing this on my ‘duckslide info’ thread a few months ago. All good info. Thank you. I had kind of come to the same conclusion with fiddling with it about the barrel.

          Other than that, it’s standing up to the abuse well?


          /i should say that I didn’t meant to offend any cerakote people with my wall hanger comment as much as say that I’m probably going to abuse the marker and want a finish that can withstand it./

        #6
        Hydro dip will not hold up at all. I don’t care who dose it.

        Cerokote properly applied will bond to anything just as good as Ano or better. Only issue is a dust finish and it’s a spray on application so it can only be applied to exterior surfaces. It works good on projects that have already been anodized. For instance if you were to cerokote say a cocker body the surface your internals ride on would be raw. But if you are to refinish one that’s already been anodized it will hold up just as good as Ano if not better. You can also do plastic and rubber as well.

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        • Grendel

          Grendel

          commented
          Editing a comment
          The guy who does my Cerakote wants the aluminum anodized and if he has to anodize it he does not seal it before applying Cerakote to promote adhesion. This is what he did with my P220's frame.

        #7
        There is a member here that does it (I've forgotten who, its been a while). I've sent firearm parts to him, and they turn out awesome.

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        • Chuck E Ducky

          Chuck E Ducky

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I had him do my old phantom to but I don’t think he dose it anymore. I’m working with this guy out of OR that seems to do nice work I just sent him a proshield to do in color shift purple going to run it for a season see how it holds up. $300 to do a mask inside and out tho.

        #8
        There are multiple formulations of Cerakote. Depending on the cure, they advertise different durability. Some are baked, some are air cure.
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          #9
          Cerakote is a strange animal, but it does have its place. I don't have experience shooting it on paintball parts but I have used it extensively in automotive applications. Tight tolerance coating it's brilliant. I have used it on bolt threads. That being said it is very thin, so runs when shooting are easy to do. In my most honest opinion, I absolutely hate how the finish looks. When you mix that factor with having to bake the heat cured versions, it is an absolute last ditch option. If not powder, paint, if not paint anno, if not anno, cerakote. If you don't give a crap about anything at all, spray paint...

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