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rawbutter's pneumag gallery

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    rawbutter's pneumag gallery

    This is a show-off thread for all the different pneumags I've built over the years, and also a price thread for those interested in hiring me for a project.

    Here's the first taste:

    If you want to make your own pneumag, you should check out these videos. They will walk you through the process. This is the cheapest way to go.If you already have the tools you need (a drill, a vice, some taps, etc.) then you can make your own pneumag for less than $100.

    If you want me to build a pneumag for you, should should read through everything else in this thread. Then post a reply (to up the thread) and PM me. We can then talk it over and I can give you a quote.

    How much does this cost? It depends on what you want. But the starting point is $100.
    • The $100 includes a custom-made air piston, frame milling, any brackets that are needed, trigger stops, magnetic trigger return (if needed), and the time required to make your project (typically 5-6 hours). It also includes return shipping in a small flat-rate box. (If your project needs something bigger, you'll have to pay the difference.)
    • For the trigger valve, you can choose a MAC-33 valve for $60 more, or an MSV-2 for $20 more. Here's a video comparing the two. The MAC-33 has a shorter trigger stroke, no post-travel, and it doesn't vent when you hold down the trigger, but it's a tiny bit heavier than the MSV-2 (still walkable, though). The MSV-2, on the other hand, has a slightly longer trigger stroke, and it vents a little when you hold down the trigger. It can also be set up to have more post travel. (The trigger can keep moving past the activation point.)
    • You will need an LPR for any pneumag project. I can sell you one for $30. It will be used, but it will have fresh seals inside. (See the next post for more information about LPRs.)
    • Sleeper installs are anywhere from $25 to $75 dollars. Big, spacious frames like ultralight Dye frames and vertical Angel frames are easy to do, so I only charge $25 for those. But Intelliframes are much harder and time-consuming, so those cost $75. (Again, there's a later post that explains sleeper set-ups in more detail.)
    • If you have a non-AGD frame you want to use for a pneumag build, that it probably possible. Many of the older-style frames with flat tops (like PMR frames or Angel frames) are really great for pneumag builds. However, you should know that in most cases these frames need additional modifications to work. If I need to add a safety, that's an extra $25. If I need to drill new mounting holes and countersink them for screws, that's another $25.
    All my pneumag frames come with spare parts, a video manual, and great customer service. I stand behind all my frames and will work with you if anything ever goes wrong.

    One last thing: If you want a fast pneumag that can keep up with electronic markers, you really need an RT on/off or a ULT on/off. It doesn't matter if you only have a classic valve, but you need a better on/off assembly. I can still make a pneumag with a classic on/off assembly, and the trigger pull will be really light, but the valve won't reset fast enough to really walk the marker reliably.
    Last edited by rawbutter; 07-24-2020, 02:47 PM.
    Stuff I build:

    Let's talk about LPRs.

    The most common question I get about pneumags is "Which LPR should I use?" And the short answer is to just use whatever you want. It doesn't make a difference.

    As for the long answer....yes, we all know that some LPRs are better than others. The bigger ones have much more volume inside, so they can recharge faster. However, keep in mind that these LPRs are designed to fill a dump chamber or half a tube or something big like that. Pneumatic components, on the other hand, are TINY. The LPR in a pneumag only has to refill the trigger valve and the piston, which hold less than a cubic centimeter of air all together. So, it doesn't matter if your LPR is cheap and tiny. It will still work great.

    If you need proof, take a look at this video. This pneumag frame uses a "bullet" LPR, which is about as small and cheap as you can get. It's being fed by a 48/3000 First Strike tank with standard output (800 psi, I believe). And it can fire at 20+ bps.

    So....yeah. Don't stress over the LPR. Just use whatever you want.

    The second most common question I get about LPRs is "Where should I mount the LPR?" And again, the answer is pretty much to put it wherever you want. Here are a few ideas. (Some of these pictures aren't mine, but you get the idea.)

    You can attach the LPR to the ASA and run the air hose up through the grips. (Usually you need to notch the grips to do this.)

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    You can mount the LPR to the VASA and have it pointed forward, Autococker style. You can then run the air line outside the rail or have the rail milled so the air line can go inside.

    not mine

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    Finally, you can also forego the LPR and instead use a regulator that has a low-pressure kit. Then you can mount the regulator like a foregrip and run the air line up through the rail. This mag uses an Ion regulator.

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    This one uses a Palmer's Fatty Stabilizer.

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    Last edited by rawbutter; 07-24-2020, 01:27 PM.
    Stuff I build:


      Let's talk about sleeper set-ups.

      A "sleeper" pneumag has the LPR installed inside the grip frame. Functionally, these are no better than standard pneumags. If you ever need to adjust the LPR, they are also more annoying since you have to remove the grips to access the LPR. But they definitely look cool, and they let you arrange the external parts of your marker however you like.

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      The easiest way to make a sleeper is to use a frame that has been designed for it. The MP90 from Luke's Customs is one such example. But in practice, almost any frame can be modified into a sleeper. Some just take more work than others.

      In any case, you need to think about which ASA you're planning to use. Again, any ASA could work, but some require more time and effort (and therefore they cost more). Here's a few of my most-preferred ASAs.
      Personally, I like to use CP ASAs because they are cheap, they are easy to use, and they match the aesthetics of an Automag. But if you really want to use something else, it's probably fine. Just check with me first.
      Last edited by rawbutter; 07-24-2020, 12:17 PM.
      Stuff I build:


        Here are a few samples of my work:

        Sleeper set-up in a Dye NT frame.
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        Sleeper set-up in a DM3 vertical frame with a classic CP ASA.

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        Last edited by rawbutter; 07-24-2020, 12:32 PM.
        Stuff I build:


          Here's a ETEK frame with sleeper LPR and a matching ASA to boot.

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          And an Angel frame with a custom safety and all the bells and whistles:

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          Last edited by rawbutter; 07-24-2020, 12:42 PM.
          Stuff I build:


            A sleeper Intelliframe with a custom manifold:

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            Last edited by rawbutter; 07-24-2020, 12:47 PM.
            Stuff I build:


              And finally, a pneumatic single-trigger carbon fiber frame. This will be getting a sleeper-treatment eventually, just as soon as I can figure out how to build an LPR that's thin enough to go inside. I'll bump the thread when that happens.

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              Stuff I build:


                Nice work... Inspiring, for sure.
                Please update feedback if we've done business!

                Extreme Discharge

                Paintball's Antiheroes

                Totally Clips of the Heart