Best Impulse Upgrades

[Riot]

I just picked up two stock impulses, one vision, one not. decided to downgrade from my fancy 170r.

Id like to figure out what my marker needs to be the most efficient w/ fastest rate of fire.

I’d also like to do this this without it costing the same as the 170r, making the downgrade pointless from a logical & financial stand point.

Please include what the upgrade would be and how it affects the marker.

Thanks.

[Hellion360]

I think an LPR is the best single upgrade.
Efficiency, lowered kick, and gentler on paint are the benefits.
Delrin bolt is also excellent.

The NDZ parts are all great but you get very diminishing returns on your money to effect ratio.

[Jordan]

I'll second the LPR.

[Siress]

Some required reading: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/impulse/index.html

The Impulse was my first major paintball gun, and boy did I nerd out over it. I don't think I kept any notes back then so this is all by memory.

NDZ made the best of every performance part. No exceptions. I even liked their non-performance parts, like the triggers and 15deg ASA. This was so true that myself and my local field owner at the time had NDZ build our Impulses for us utilizing all of their parts in a no-expense-spared-for-performance build. They're sleeper builds, as we easily could have had custom labeled bodies and such - but we played scenario games and woodsball, so sleeper builds were where it was at...

Phase 1 has to be an LPR or tapeworm. One is necessary just to resolve a design flaw. It'll need to be tuned after install. I can probably dig up a guide if there isn't one on ZDSPB.
Phase 2 is a regulator and solenoid rebuild if it hasn't already been done. These things are old... I recommend you pick up some dow 33 lite if you don't already have some.
Phase 3 is a stubby delrin bolt. It lightens the reciprocating mass, reduces drag and binding, and reduces the air pressure accordingly. A bolt pin for the same reasons, but I wouldn't go out of your way for it.
Phase 4 is the valve assembly. Specifically the RIP valve.
Phase 5 is a new board, or new firmware. There are several drop-in replacements, but the WAS board was probably the most highly regarded.

Personally, I'd rather get a Morlock board and convert it to breakbeam eyes - but that's a lot of effort.
I'm pretty sure I can dig up the old firmware option if you're interested, but I recall it used a DB25 serial port connector and a custom cable... so... might have trouble finding a suitable computer for that route. (EDIT: Nevermind. Seems you should be able to do it with an $8 USB converter.

The last phase is controversial in that there isn't a huge benefit reported from most users: the entire hammer assembly. Specifically, the NDZ "rathole" SS hammer assembly. They offered other varients, but the vented SS hammer had the best performance.

A word on cost... I haven't kept up with the state of the market, but I'd be amazed if you could piece this together for any less than you could buy a used GTEK (OG), and that OG GTEK will beat the anodizing off the impulse in every regard, except maybe shot-to-shot consistency. Not that we have paint good enough for the difference to matter any more.

[Riot]

One of them has a rip valve!
That’s the best I got, short of taking them out of the box, I haven’t even looked at them.
Appreciate the write up, I’ll probably end up messaging you some!

[AnarchicArctic]

Best upgrades are the pythons you sold…ha

[Riot]

@anarchicartic - Could you be more specific? Ha. The last Python, the black one, was probably the -best- & fastest I’ve ever shot.

[Siress]

Best upgrades are the pythons you sold…ha

pulled a bicep reading this

[Brokeass_baller]

Sci-fi makes an impulse board, you know.

[Riot]

Phase 1 has to be an LPR or tapeworm. One is necessary just to resolve a design flaw. It'll need to be tuned after install. I can probably dig up a guide if there isn't one on ZDSPB.
Phase 2 is a regulator and solenoid rebuild if it hasn't already been done. These things are old... I recommend you pick up some dow 33 lite if you don't already have some.
Phase 3 is a stubby delrin bolt. It lightens the reciprocating mass, reduces drag and binding, and reduces the air pressure accordingly. A bolt pin for the same reasons, but I wouldn't go out of your way for it.
Phase 4 is the valve assembly. Specifically the RIP valve.
Phase 5 is a new board, or new firmware. There are several drop-in replacements, but the WAS board was probably the most highly regarded.

Personally, I'd rather get a Morlock board and convert it to breakbeam eyes - but that's a lot of effort.
I'm pretty sure I can dig up the old firmware option if you're interested, but I recall it used a DB25 serial port connector and a custom cable... so... might have trouble finding a suitable computer for that route. (EDIT: Nevermind. Seems you should be able to do it with an $8 USB converter.

The last phase is controversial in that there isn't a huge benefit reported from most users: the entire hammer assembly. Specifically, the NDZ "rathole" SS hammer assembly. They offered other varients, but the vented SS hammer had the best performance.

It seems I’m going in the wrong order. I’ve acquired items to complete Phase 4 & phase 5.

anyone out there able to help out with the first three phases?



Thanks

[Riot]

No idea how half my post disappeared…

As I was saying, it took a week, but having never taken an impulse apart, I’m pleased with what I’ve learned & the outcome.

Currently in a stock body…

Added
NDZ LPR
Short Strange Bolt
WAS board
iFrame (for now)
Vertical MaxFlo
rip valve

that should check off some of the list, ayee @Siress


I’m sure once air it out to it, I’m in for a world of trouble, but nothing in the marker itself seemed too bad.

[Mountain Gravy]

Mine has full NDZ mods and I've found that it actually handled modern paint better with a modified stock bolt. Paint these days is so much smaller that the NDZ delrin bolt turns it into a blender with everything above low grade field paint. A lot of guys have begun machining ramps into the top of the factory bolts. it works very well to prevent chops from clipping the next ball in the stack. Stock bolts are a dime a dozen, so it's worth a try if you start having breakage issues.