I have 2 enmeys made for the Pop build competition. I took them to the field last weekend to try them out. To say I love these guns would be an understatement. I am seeing other SP/GoG guns that seem to have similar builds/body designs. The Vibe, Extcy, and, to some extent, the Ion. Do these have enough compatability that I would be able to use my printed bodies and printed detents on them? Do they have any bolt system compatability with the Enmey? Are any of them worth messing with?
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I believe that they're like 90% compatible with each other. Like you could probably hook up an ion frame to an enmey can and have zero issues, but I don't know the full extent of it. I could test it sometime with the stuff I've got around -
There is a lot of cross compatibility, but also some "design changes" that intentionally(imo) stop cross compatability.
Some of the larger conflicts i can think about right now are ...
1) Swapping threaded feedneck in ion to body mounted feedneck on enmey class
2) Bolt design change from v1 enmey/ion to v2 enmey bolt system.
3) VA adaptor built into the enmey valve vs into the ion frame.
4) Hose lengths are different in ion solenoid vs enmey valve.Comment
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Been researching while cooking for an hour. What I think I want to be able to do is to make electric versions of my Enmey using my printed body and printed detents. Looks like Envy and Extcy are the best bet. Doesn't look like the bolts are compatible, but I am willing to bet a lot of the orings are used across the platforms. I am seeing tons of issues with cracked solenoid caps having to be replaced by Rise caps. That seems to be par for the course. When you wade through old shit, sometimes you leave smelling badly.Comment
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I think the Envy is what I am looking for. I believe I can use my printed body and detents and end up with my Poo build with an electronic trigger.Comment
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In case you haven't sorted it out yet, the eNVy was basically the same gun as the Vibe.Originally posted by Calvin View Post
The other two guns in the family are the tactical variants, the SP-1 (Smart Parts) and the G-1 (Gog).
After many, many delays there was also the G-1M, which was a G-1 with an eNMEy-style mechanical trigger.Comment
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I did see that. I ended up purchasing a few Envys in good condition. I use LTRs exclusively, so the blindness doesnt bother me a bit. I'm hoping to mix these and my Enmeys into a kit of guns that I can pack tight and not worry about hurting. I love the way they shoot and handle with my printed body. I don't have to worry about beating them up or breaking them. There will be enough of them that I will know I can go through a day without wrenching a marker at the field in any way.
I know that conventional wisdom is to buy a nice gun, but I have gone down that road before, and I am always sketched out when playing games with an art object. Plastic crap that works well would appear to be my bag, baby.
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I still have to shoot some paint through mine. I was underwhelmed after firing a few atomic pickles through it, but that may change with some actual paint. I really like the tight form factor of these. The added bonus that these guns used to be rentals makes me feel like I don't have to be too careful with it. It came with dings and scratches so what's one more? I'm sure nothing I do to it will be even close to the worst that it's seen.Comment
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I received the first two Envys.
Envy 1 was great looking on the outside. Didn't have a spec of paint on the inside of the body, which is a weird buying experience for me. It had a blackout board and eyes, which is kinda cool. The aluminum body fits right into my printed external body with no issues. My printed detents also fit right in. The board powered on, the eyes worked. Everything was going great. The reg adjusting piston was frozen, which is never good. I put one of my known good maxflo regs on it and aired up up after cleaning and greasing the bolt and putting new orings on the banjo bolts. The solenoid was leaking badly, but the gun cycled just fine. Inspection showed a crack in the solenoid cap right behind one of the screws. I ordered 2 Dye Proto Rail solenoids immediately so I can do the repair.
The second Envy showed up today. It also looked great outside.
It was absolutely full of grease, so I washed the bolt and body and relubed appropriately. Even the reg seemed to be fully functional. I turned it way down, in case it had been set too high by the previous owner, finished my checks and aired it up. The marker held air and cycled. Hot damn! I finished getting everything together and took a pic.
I am gonna love these things. All the modes were working. I put it in select fire to experience the 3 round burst and full auto. Fantastic! Put it back in semi and went out to chrono. It was firing 290 in no time. I came back into the shop full to the brim with excitement. I had been to the mountaintop. I had seen the promised land. As I sat down, I started to hear a faint hissing. Cursory listening indicated it was probably the solenoid. Breakdown and airing up without the grip confirmed it. Probably the same crack as the first. 🤕
What I can confirm, is that I will like these once I repair the solenoid cap. They swap out bits easily with out Emney build parts. I have a 3rd coming at some point. If it also has a bad solenoid, it will be getting the Smav-3 conversion treatment. The one difference externally between the Emney and the Envy is the spacing of the banjo bolt holes. They are a little closer together on the Envy, so just moving the board to an Emney, or the valve to an Envy ain't happening. However, I think the Smav-3 conversion might work well on the Envy. It seems to have plenty of space in the grip and frame. I'm confident it can be done if needed.
At the very least, I have 2 kickass cases to transport these and/or my Poo builds to the field with. I shall have some experiences with these solenoid cap conversions shortly.
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One of the noids just died after having been rehabbed and fully functional a day prior. This infuriated me on a cellular level, so I ordered a shitload of SMAVening bits. I finally got the last of the needed bits and went at it.
The assembly of the components was pretty easy. Aired up fine on the bench dissembled. Tried to assemble it and realized the from MEV-2 would require some meat removal from the frame.
After mauling it sufficiently with the dremel, I could assemble it. Now it was not firing due to bent hose choking off the flow from the SMAV end output. After some play with reductions in the hose lengths to and from the SMAV, I settled on this, which made it happy.
Gun chronoed right up. I know there are some differences between the Enmey and Envy drivetrains. Not sure how much those matter, but the SMAVed Envy was shooting very consistently on the chrony. The SMAV is also a much better feeling valve triggerwise on this double trigger frame. I am able to shoot much more quickly. Overall, I'm pretty pleased. Two more conversions remain. I may try a Sidewinder on one of them to see if it is more consistent than the Max Flo.
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Two up. Its very tricksy to get the hoses to just the right lengths so the setup folds into the frame without kinking. The second setup was cycling, but I could tell the bolt reset was slow. I removed the frame screws, massaged the hoses, said prayers to the Omnisiah, and buttoned it back up. Cycled like a dream when aired up again.
I already loved the Enmey platform after 4 field days of using it. The feel of the SMAV on this trigger is so good that I am hopeful that this will be the new hotness for me.
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Perhaps that's what's occuring with mine. I closed everything up and was having cycling issues and assumed it's the trigger since it's resting right on the actuator. I'll open it up again and see how it cycles to rule one or the other out -
Yep. When I separate the body from the frame the eNMEy cycles properly and can be fired rapidly. Looks like the 1/8 hose coming from the tee to the SMAV-3 is getting kinked when the two halves are closed. I'll take your advice and place the tee close to the VASA and allow the connection to the SMAV-3 room to have that S-bend.
As far as firing is concerned, the trigger seems fine resting right up against the SMAV-3 actuator. Very light trigger pull. Main downside is the safety doesn't really prevent the marker from firing in that config. I'll still likely look into some slight trigger redesigns. -
The trigger can be adjusted right into contact with the SMAV. Its really nice when adjusted that way. I have been working in this Ion while waiting on parts. There is less room in that frame than in the Envy/Enmey frames. Having seen Hellion's Mag Ion, I have decided to run an aluminum 5/32 hard line down the right side of the body. This will let me use a 1/8 press fitting inside the front of the frame leading straight the SMAV and then straight to the QEV. Should make breakdown super easy as well. Just gotta wait for parts 🫤.
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The way I've assembled these with moderate success is cutting the hoses shorter and securing the valve in the gripframe at the very end. It's a time-consuming getting the hose lengths right and manipulating the valve into the right position with picks/hex keys, but this usually removes issues with hoses kinking.Comment
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It's funny that you posted that. I spent the day moving my daughter to her next college house. While doing so I had that same epiphany. My plan is to add a long tab to the SMAV bracket that sticks straight into the grip's open area. That will give me something to grip while lining the bracket up with tue hex nut that pins it in place.
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This is the way.
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Jigging it up to measure the exact lengths installed. Will record lengths after for retrofitting the completed ones.
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I wrestled the bear for a couple hours till I figured it out. The key is to put the tee up front, right at the ASA.
You can place the tee sideways, and that gives the hose from the SMAV enough room to do a gentle S bend. I placed the spring at the SMAV just to be sure, but its probably not needed.
Be sure to clean out the front area of the frame to have enough space for the two hoses to pass the MEV-2.
Speaking of the MEV-2....it's a pain in the ass. The flat seal included gives about 30 degrees of sealing direction, and doesnt seal particularly reliably if the edges of the hole have any wear. I used orings, which worked sometimes, but sometimes squished out the oring to get the required direction. I ended up printing a cuff to go over the oring to give it similar function to the captured oring in the stock fitting. That gave me about 270 degrees of good seal and let me hit the right direction with a good tight seal.
The fight wore me out. Gonna wait till tomorrow to go at retrofitting the first two I did. At least I know what will work now.Comment
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