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13ci and 15ci Tank Cover Butts file release, including one that holds 10 round tubes!

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    13ci and 15ci Tank Cover Butts file release, including one that holds 10 round tubes!

    I released my 13ci and 15ci tank cover butt designs! Including a tube butt! It's fun to say butt.
    The tube butt holds 8 10-round-tubes. I am working on a capless version of it as well but orienting the tubes that direction presented a few more variables I have yet to conquer for best function. Will comment/post up when the capless is done.
    13ci tank cover butt tested with HK tanks, and 15ci tank cover butt tested with first strike tanks. Not sure if dimensions vary from brand to brand.
    For 3d printing in 95A TPU.
    Enjoy!!!
    3d printed tank cover butt printed in TPU material! TPU is flexible and rubber like. It allows for a real snug and flexible fit on the tank, and gives the tank cover squish and extra grip.



    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version  Name:	paintball tank cover butts all 3.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.29 MB ID:	385248 Click image for larger version  Name:	paintball tank cover stock class tube holder.jpg Views:	0 Size:	936.4 KB ID:	385249

    #2
    Thanks for making the files accessible!

    Comment


      #3
      Those are awesome, definitely gonna print a few ๐Ÿ‘
      Thanks!
      Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

      XEMON's phantom double sided feed
      Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
      My Feedback

      Comment


      #4
      Looks like ill need to practice tpu printing.
      https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

      Comment


      • XEMON

        XEMON

        commented
        Editing a comment
        I have an ender with single gear extruder and I print TPU with no problem ๐Ÿ‘
        I did print a new top plate for the lever/tensioner mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3844646
        It makes a world of difference!

        I can send you my settings if you want

      • MuddyBloodyFactory
        MuddyBloodyFactory commented
        Editing a comment
        To piggy back off of Xemon, I also used to run a custom printed part for TPU on my stock extruders and they worked great as well but were annoying to set up. That was a long time ago and if there are good files out there for that now, it should be pretty straight forward.

      • BrickHaus

        BrickHaus

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Both if you!! Awesome replies, and thanks for the insights!

        I need to see if I can. Make that tpu adapter work with my dual gear extruder. I assume it will as its frame is copied from the ender 3 original.

        X. Id happily take your settings if you are willing to share. At the very least it can be a baseline for me.

      #5
      Awesome ! Thank you

      Comment


        #6
        Awesome, guess I'll pick up some tpu now to fiddle around with. I've tried regular butt stocks, grip tape and a tennis ball on my pump gun tank and none feel quite right to me.

        Comment


        • MuddyBloodyFactory
          MuddyBloodyFactory commented
          Editing a comment
          These are a good start in the right direction. And I released the tinkercad files so we can get them to perfection! (if possible)

        #7
        So would you say that these are for people.... Who like big butts?

        Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

        I use Tapatalk which does NOT display comments. If you want me to see it, make it a post not a comment.

        Feedback
        https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...323-s-feedback

        Comment


        • MuddyBloodyFactory
          MuddyBloodyFactory commented
          Editing a comment
          I have been struggling to make enough butt jokes. Taking my self too seriously now pls send help

        #8
        Besides the usual temperatures and bed conditions, the main thing I found with soft tpu like ninja flex (85A) is volumetric flow rate. Rather than fiddle with all of the various flow rates, you lower the volumetric flow rate to limit everything. It is very slow, but it's really handy for seals and squishy things.

        The setting in slicer is under print settings, speed, (advanced) auto speed. My ninja flex is set to 1.5mm3/sec.

        ***this lets you keep the travel speed high, reducing strings and blobs.

        Mainly though, if you have trouble with softer TPU, trying slower feeds may help.
        Last edited by Spider!; 03-25-2023, 04:10 PM.
        Feedback

        https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...der-s-feedback

        Comment


        • MuddyBloodyFactory
          MuddyBloodyFactory commented
          Editing a comment
          Not sure I follow this comment. Why not perform a flow tuning procedure?

        • Spider!

          Spider!

          commented
          Editing a comment
          It limits the flow rate across the board, including bridges and infill. I had an exception setting somewhere that would speed up and cause trouble. The print would work fine up to that point, but it would under extrude and then blob on a detail.

          That's with super slicer.
          Last edited by Spider!; 03-25-2023, 04:10 PM.

        #9
        I've been toying with a concept just like this myselfClick image for larger version

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ID:	436590I would love to figure out a reasonable way to make it capless, but another thing I've been tempted to test is to make a "speedfeed" style cap for 10 round tubes that has 3 small flanges on the top that just allow you to jam the tube into your stick feed / cram and jam, and it will just slide down the tube.

        Just need to perfect the design so that it's tight enough to keep the balls in the tube when running around, and loose enough that it can easily be pushed down with the force of reloading a stick feed.โ€‹

        Comment


          #10
          Originally posted by Taylor D View Post
          I've been toying with a concept just like this myselfClick image for larger version

Name:	Capture1.png
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ID:	436590I would love to figure out a reasonable way to make it capless, but another thing I've been tempted to test is to make a "speedfeed" style cap for 10 round tubes that has 3 small flanges on the top that just allow you to jam the tube into your stick feed / cram and jam, and it will just slide down the tube.

          Just need to perfect the design so that it's tight enough to keep the balls in the tube when running around, and loose enough that it can easily be pushed down with the force of reloading a stick feed.โ€‹
          Are you talking about something like this?

          And God turned to Gabriel and said: โ€œI shall create a land called Canada of outstanding natural beauty, with majestic mountains soaring with eagles, sparkling lakes abundant with bass and trout, forests full of elk and moose, and rivers stocked with salmon. I shall make the land rich in oil so the inhabitants prosper and call them Canadians, and they shall be praised as the friendliest of all people.โ€

          โ€œBut Lord,โ€ asked Gabriel, โ€œIs this not too generous to these Canadians?โ€

          And God replied, โ€œJust wait and see the neighbors I shall inflict upon them."

          Comment


            #11
            Originally posted by Jordan View Post

            Are you talking about something like this?

            https://phantomonline.com/product/ball-retainer/
            Kind of, but it works in the opposite way.

            Here is a picture of my current design.

            It replaces the cap on the end of a 10 round tube

            The flanges open when you push the tube into a feed stick

            The cap will slide down the 10 round tube and get stuck a cm or so down.

            This will mean you never lose the caps, and you can load your feeds without needing to remove the cap.

            It allows you to use any harness as if it were a capless design.

            I need to do a lot of testing though, I have to perfect the thickness so that it's easy enough to operate, whilst still maintaining structural integrity on resets so that the flanges don't get so loose that the balls jiggle as you move around.

            Click image for larger version

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            Comment


              #12
              Originally posted by Taylor D View Post

              Kind of, but it works in the opposite way.

              Here is a picture of my current design.

              It replaces the cap on the end of a 10 round tube

              The flanges open when you push the tube into a feed stick

              The cap will slide down the 10 round tube and get stuck a cm or so down.

              This will mean you never lose the caps, and you can load your feeds without needing to remove the cap.

              It allows you to use any harness as if it were a capless design.

              I need to do a lot of testing though, I have to perfect the thickness so that it's easy enough to operate, whilst still maintaining structural integrity on resets so that the flanges don't get so loose that the balls jiggle as you move around.

              Click image for larger version

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              Hey any updates on this? I was thinking of a similar idea, but the lack the know-how to design it and am really intrigued if this will work out. Cheers!

              Comment


                #13
                Originally posted by Tedi1997 View Post

                Hey any updates on this? I was thinking of a similar idea, but the lack the know-how to design it and am really intrigued if this will work out. Cheers!
                I mostly abandoned the design. If it's too soft the balls bounce around to much and is annoying. If it's too hard it doesn't work well. The other thing is it inevitably softens up / becomes more angelled with use so it becomes problematic.

                I ended up just creating and using a capless holder.

                Comment

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