I would bet you could more easily cram all this in the tray of a B2k/Defiant or Impulse setup. Seems like it would conceptually work, and you might have room for a pulse valve to control dwell more consistently instead of relying on how you pull the trigger.
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Velcor will save us...
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Since this fix seems to require more work than it takes to build a paintball gun from scratch, I have two questions:
1) what happens to the electronics? How do they die? Would fixing them be easier than this?
2) what’s so great about a broken Intimidator that it justifies all this work (which basically makes it another gun in the end)?Comment
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Same thing with my new love of building Mech Ions. For Timmys, it's the SMC noid that dies and is hard to replace. One of my distributors has them (and similar ones for Bushys and EM1s) but if it's just sitting around as New/Old Stock, there's a high percentage of it being seized up and rot has set in. What's funny is that they originated as a mech, in Spyders/Bob Long Millenniums. Then people wanted to make Spimmys. Now it's making a Mech Timmy. Not quite the same as ripping the guts out of a Intimidator and filling the voids with STBB parts, but a interesting take to bringing it back home to it's humble beginnings.Comment
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If you're used to working on autocockers, and understand how they work, its really no more complicated than that.Originally posted by SignOfZeta View Post
1) Like any electronic computerized device, they break down.
The most common culprit for electronics breakdowns in general is usually a burst capacitor, or sometimes you also get corrosion on the board pathways itself, too.
Other potential issues specific to these old intimidators include problems with the eyes, and problems with the touchpad. If you're comfortable working on soldering and desoldering computer components to boards, then you'll probably be able to keep these old beasts goong for a while. As ChoSanJuan mentions above, the solenoids on these old warhorses are also getting more challenging to find (although I luckily, have not yet had any problems with my noids).
OEM parts are getting more difficult to find, but every now and then you get small-shop aftermarket parts, but those also tend to have limited production runs, making them potentially difficult to find down the road.
2) Im not sure I would describe this as 'just another gun' but I think I understand the sentiment you're getting at.
Its hard to explain what makes an old timmy great to someone who has either never experienced it, or just holds a different standard of greatness.
Why do people restore classic cars? Why do people buy kit cars when it would be easier to just walk into a Toyota dealership? Why do some people prefer old videogames and game systems to newer ones? Why do people like camping when you can just stay in a hotel?
🤷♂️
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Last edited by TomsGunShow; 07-02-2021, 11:35 PM.Comment
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I know this isn't quite a recent post, but not too old so I'm going to necro.
I have greatly enjoyed this writeup and since I'm somewhat interested in analog logic, i had some ideas to improve on your pneumatic system.- I have seen someone post a mechtimidator without qevs and the only one worth keeping might be the one going to the front port. and i also have an idea to repurpose the second one.
- QEVs can be used to fill a tank/volume and then dump that volume when you vent the fill line. If you used your trigger valve to pressurize a (small) volume and dumped that tanks pressure onto the pilot valve using the qev when the trigger is pulled you'd not only get a much more consistent trigger pull, but by bleeding the pressure from the pilot valve at a controlled rate you'd regain control of your dwell time by adjusting the LPR, tank volume or pressure bleed.
So your new connections are:- Trigger NO to QEV Inlet
- QEV Outlet to Tank (the tank could probably be just a loop of hose or a fitting with a plug/cap)
- QEV Exhaust through bleeder to Pilot valve attachment
Hire MeComment
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This is amazing. Let me know what games you're heading to this year, I'd love to see this in action. I'm located in London now, so there's quite a few fields within 2-3 hours.
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Thank you for resurrecting this thread! I always love talking about this thing!Originally posted by devilzcall View Post
So, It's been a while, but I think someone suggested something similar to this on the old MCB thread. I do remember trying to leave the exhaust port of the SMAV leaky, and it just vents way too much air. It's more of a hog than a 98 RT, and adding the leaky vent on each trigger pull was basically like 3 shots-worth of air for every shot.
I did at one point play with the idea of a dump-chamber actuator, but the list of parts started to creep up very quickly, and I wasnt so sure I i could keep it all contained in the gripframe. Most of the ideas involved pulse valves (which, correct me if I'm wrong but thats basically what the MFC-2 would be used for?). Buuut... The main problem with all of the options I explored that involved pulse valves and flow controllers ultimately came down to recharge rates.
Doing this properly with a flow control valve or pulse valve meant my max bps would be something like 3, at best, because of the poor recharge rates of not just the valves, but also the system as a whole.
As a comparison, I'm currently able to get it up to about 12 or 13 bps before the system dips under the required operating pressure.
That said, can you throw up a napkin-drawing of the system you're describing? Maybe I'm just not picturing it properly...
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Lawdy I haven't been to any games since the pandemic began - but this summer is looking good! Here's hoping flag raiders had an outdoor field back up and running by summer!Originally posted by ATBen View Post
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I alway enjoy comming back to this thread to look at your mech timmy. You inspired me to try it on a Macdev Clone I had. Super happy with the result too
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Thank you - and Im glad I was able to inspire you to lose some electronics! Can we see any pics or video of the conversion?Originally posted by Alexndl View Post
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I'm interested in the latest plan/Idea of devilzcall.
Does someone has a link in where to get all this parts.
Thanks before hand.
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I thought those were called Spyders 🤣Comment
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Can someone direct my where to get all parts in/around Germany (with one order would be super cool)?
Looked at https://shop.clippard.eu/ but they don't seem to have the MPA-3 at all.Comment
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auf anhieb: https://www.bib-automation.de/Clippa...8%5C::228.html
not sure if that's the best price you can get it at. Also haven't ordered there before
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I know Im a bit late to respond (sorry about that!) Its weird that its not showing up for you. It may be a part that they have either redesigned, and offer an alternative for in the EU, or, they may not stock it in the EU... meaning you might need to import it.Originally posted by Terrortoby View Post
I dont know if this is helpful, but here are some links to places that are actively selling MPA-3's in North America:
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I did a similar project with my 98, making it look like an eBolt but no batteries. Hoping to shrink it down a bit with a custom pulse valve.
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