Newb

[chocolatemussolini]

I have a Nikon d6500, mostly to impress the ladies, wink wink.

I’m just looking for videos to help me get started and there’s SOOOO many, I’m overwhelmed.

i need to learn everything, but have the most interest in pictures of people.


hobby level.


ty!

[JeeperCreeper]

I have a slightly older 5200. One of the best things you can pick up is a 35mm F1.8 lense from Nikon. It is far from the best lense you can buy, but it is still a great lense to learn with.

This video goes through using manual settings.

https://youtu.be/6_B8pVoANyY

[chrislognshot]

okay so you have D5600 and want to do video. well you have few options but one not cheap and be hard to get that Z9 which nikon best camera for video. but spending close to 6.5k out of your budget. the only other options is Z6 or Z6 II. should look at used Z6 or brand new Z6. since not sure if you want to spend close to 2.5k for Z6 II since best other option for video do to low light sensor. i have z6 and video for you watch this is

canon coming out with true camera and video one. also canon makes video camera somewhat close to red cinema camera but way cheaper. red cinema camera are the best. but sony and canon cinema camera good but not on par with it.


1080p one small file https://www.flickr.com/photos/148842...7720296223916/


here link to 4k one and from my facebook page
https://www.facebook.com/chris.delli...5221950810727/

[JeeperCreeper]

I'm pretty sure he just wants videos to learn how to use the camera he has, not to buy the best, most expensive Nikon to shoot video.

[Fubarius]

Just a clarification, do you mean D5600? Or D6500? The numbers can mean a LOT of differences. And since Nikon doesn't actually make a D6500 I'll assume it's the former.

With that out of the way, fancy picture 101 from one beginner to another. I ain't no pro, but I am a bit of an info sponge, and am pretty good at relaying all that info.

So if you're happy with "OK" pictures just set to the camera to automatic and shoot away. Sometimes you'll get a shot that's pretty darn good, other times, meh. To get more good shots you'll have to take control of the setting more. Now there's dozens of settings on your camera, and it would take forever to go through all of them (and I'm a Canon guy, the setting on my camera might even have different names), but if you start with the 3 most important settings you can really get a feel for the camera and learn more from there.

The three settings to worry about for now are ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture. These three together make what people call the Exposure Triangle.


So lets start with the easiest, ISO. It's a measurement of the sensitivity of your sensor. A bigger number means more sensitive, so the picture gets brighter, but also more noisy, sometimes almost looking like static on the image. In general you want this set as low as you can with out making your image look too dark. For now you can leave this setting on automatic and let the camera pick, but keep an eye on the display to see what it's using. If it keeps jumping up to 6400 or higher when you focus you may need to adjust a different setting, since all three in combination effect the image brightness.

Next, Shutter Speed. A measurement of how long the shutter is held open when you take the picture. This is measured in fractions of a second. 1/1000 is very fast, and fast moving subjects will appear to freeze in time. But if it's dark out the shutter will need to be held open longer to let enough light onto the sensor. Too long a shutter and you start to get motion blur, or even just blur from you unable to hold the camera still. So faster is generally better. I normally leave this one on automatic until it starts to cause issues. Often I'll accept a darker that usual image as long as it's nice and sharp over a bright blurry image.

Finally, the one that confuses people the most, Aperture. It's a measurement of how big an opening there is on the back of the lens. And most lenses have an aperture that can close, making that opening smaller. The number, F5, F1.8, etc. but also shown as 1:5, 1:1.8 and so on is based on some odd equation I don't particularly understand, but it boils down to smaller number equals bigger opening. So when you close the aperture the number goes up. Yeah, confusing. So if your image is too bright you can close the aperture, letting less light through, and darken the image. But Aperture effects something else, called the Depth of Field. It's how much of the image is in focus based on distance. A more open aperture (smaller F number) means stuff closer or farther away from what you've focused on will be more out of focus. You want a fancy portrait shot of a person with that fancy blurry background? You need that F number to be as small as you can manage. A big landscape image with stuff both close and far you want to be able to see? Close that aperture down (bigger F number).

So to summarize, Low ISO = darker, les noisy image. High ISO = lighter, more noisy image.
High shutter speed = darker, freeze time image. Low shutter speed = brighter, motion blurry image.
Closed aperture (bigger F number)= darker image, sharper backgrounds. Open aperture (smaller F number)= brighter image, blurry backgrounds.

So mostly when I'm taking pictures of people I set the camera to have as open an aperture as possible (on my Canon it's called Aperture Priority mode, no idea what it's called on a Nikon). The blurry backgrounds and foregrounds more accurately recreate the way humans actually see the world with their eyes.

So the lens that came with your camera was probably the standard kit lens, looks like an 18-55mm (small number is zoomed out, things look smaller; big number is zoomed in, things look bigger), F3.5-5.6. With cheaper zoom lenses as you zoom in and out the maximum aperture changes. That aperture, especially at the higher magnifications, isn't particularly open. Images can look kind of flat. It helps if you can move closer to your subject and have them stand farther away from whatever is in the background. Grabbing a dedicated portrait lens can help a lot. That 35mm F1.8 that JeeperCreeper recommended will help a lot. Now it's a fixed focal length, so if you want to zoom in you'll have to just move closer to your subject, but that much wider aperture will really make your images pop.

And one final thing about your camera. It has a what's known as a crop sensor. The sensor is actually a bit smaller than what the big expensive professional cameras have. This means the sensor only picks up about the middle 3/4's of what the lens is seeing. So the image is actually zoomed in a little. 1.5x in your case. So when you're reading an article about how, for example, a 50mm lens is best since it recreates the focal length of the human eye, do note that on your camera a 50mm would give an image that looks more like a 75mm lens. To get that 50mm equivalent focal length you need a 34mm lens.

Though in practice the difference between the two is taking two large steps backwards away from your subject. I jokingly refer to my 50mm lens as the "social distancing" lens since I always seem to be backing up a few steps away from people with it.

[chrislognshot]

there is no D6500 only D3000 D5000 D7000 D500 series body's

[chocolatemussolini]

d5600. Typing is hard.

I’ll read all this tomorrow, thank you!

[chrislognshot]

if need more help with nikon check this place out i am on it once i awhile

https://www.nikonforums.com/forums/