Naughty Dog Intimidator Rebuild thread

[Cdn_Cuda]

Let’s see if I can make this marker functional!

[Cdn_Cuda]

Starting with the grips:


Then open up the trigger frame clamshell:



And moving the board aside you can see the solenoid:

[Cdn_Cuda]

With the board removed, showing the internal wires and hose routing:



And might as well pop the bolt out as well:



Remove the two trigger guard screws:



Wanted to check my board as well. Initially it was not working, but I had the husk of a Defiant kicking around that thankfully had a lot of useable parts for this build. In this case I needed the battery wires. But after swapping, the board works!

[Cdn_Cuda]

Here's my donor Alias. This has been a lifesaver for this project, as it shares several key parts with the Naughty Dog.



I've ended up salvaging wire connectors, fittings and an LPR reg seal out of this body and have a spare board, solenoid and eyes. Very happy I did not get rid of this body.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Alrighty, them, to the eyes next and the depends. Take the cover off and nothing looks too terrible in there.



I've also full removed the grip frame now, which is only two screws, but have to be mindful of the eye wires and internal hoses which go from the body to the solenoid. I also remove the back cap. I plan on ordering an adjustable back cap when Canada Post gets itself figured out.


And then I can removed the inner ram:

[Cdn_Cuda]

Next I flip to the front of the marker, and disassemble the LPR, first removing the housing:



I then proceed to remove the front block, so I need to undo the front hose line:



And then remove the barb. I have a tiny socket that works perfect for this as these can be difficult to remove:



With that out of the way I can access the front block retention bolt, which is accessible without removing the barb, I am taking it all apart, so might as well remove it all.


And here we can see just how old the o-rings are and why it needs a full rebuild!

[Cdn_Cuda]

With that removed, I can remove the valve retention bolt and remove the lower tube:



And here you can see the ram in the lower tube. Not the front o-ring is actually a U-shaped o-ring.



And a better look at the U-shape ring that goes on the front of the valve



And here's the shot of the empty body with all the internals removed:

[Cdn_Cuda]

Next, turning back two the LPR, I removed the front cap, spring and "coin" spacer:

You need two remove the piston. - Note, I think i mis-sided this oring as when put it back together it was super, super tight. Used an 011 and it seemed to work better.


Now I need to remove the valve. A slotted screwdriver works, or a socket if you can fit one in.


And here is what the assembly looks laid out:

[Cdn_Cuda]

Note the valve seals go, and I have my HPR valve seal give up mid rebuild. You need a reg seal for the LPR and HPR, and I was lucky enough to be able to salvage some, but will be ordered new parts once I am able to do so.

Apparently did not take pictures went I rebuilt the HPR, so I may have to take it apart again for documentary purposes. It's a pretty easy rebuild and very similar to the LPR.

[Cdn_Cuda]

So now I have everything back together, the board works and the solenoid clicks. I have to wait for some loctite to dry on some of the front block and how that I didn't harm the valve o-rings when I inserted the lower tube back in the body, which is easily the most difficult part of rebuilding these markers. Having previous taken apart a System X NME, it was all pretty familiar and significantly easier this time around, at least until I see if it leaks when aired up.

[Trbo323]

So now I have everything back together, the board works and the solenoid clicks. I have to wait for some loctite to dry on some of the front block and how that I didn't harm the valve o-rings when I inserted the lower tube back in the body, which is easily the most difficult part of rebuilding these markers. Having previous taken apart a System X NME, it was all pretty familiar and significantly easier this time around, at least until I see if it leaks when aired up.

Lol yes that is the worst part.

My advice is to leave the frame off, either connect the noid lines or pinch off the noid supply line and pressure test first to see if you have a leak. If you do have a leak you save yourself a little time by leaving the frame off

Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

[Cdn_Cuda]

Definitely. Did a little testing last night, and loctited a few parts but it was leaking near the vavle, just hard to know if was the valve. Fingers crossed it was from the old gauge….

[Cdn_Cuda]

Update time! After my first effort my valve leaked. So I consulted the hive mind and learn to insert the tube in the other way, from the front, and lube the hell out of it. This tactic worked! My valve seal did not leak.

Now, however, I have a leak down the barrel. So I’ve pulled the valve pin and replaced that o-ring, which is no a pleasant process. Eventually, after much struggle I got the old o-ring off and the new o-ring on.




Now my nemesis waits to be aired up again and potentially shatter my dreams!

[Trbo323]

You could still be having the same valve leak. If the front o ring is clipped and leaking out will most likely result in a leak down the barrel.

I hope that's not the case but just wanted to inform you

Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

[Cdn_Cuda]

Oh, I am ready for disappointment. Probably wait a few days before airing it up. These definitely are not my favourite markers to work on, but need to challenge oneself every now and then.

[Cdn_Cuda]

And still massively leaks….